Climb: Valhallas-Lies About The Valhalla Range
Date of Climb: 8/10/2005
Trip Report:
The Valhallas are not well known, except for the south ridge of Gimli
This is because the Valhallas suck. There is nothing else worth climbing there. All of the obvious lines were climbed a long time ago and they aren't very hard or very challenging. The rock is like the worst parts of Smith and Vantage combined.
There is a guidebook which is easy to find and surprisingly accurate. All of the existing climbs grades are accurately listed in the guidebook.
Ferocious bears are said to be quite rare in the area but we saw a lot of them anyway. At least 10 or 12 a day.
There are no lakes, just mud puddles. Not big enough to swim in.
The weather is generally superb. Thunder and lightning storms will NEVER come in on you half way up a climb.
All of the existing routes have copious fixed hardware but none of it is trustworthy. Even though all the climbing is 5.4, it's 5.4 X on loose rock clipping closely spaced yet rusty bolts. A terrible place to be a beginner climber.
The whole area is quite crowded with tourists, and very expensive. Permits cost hundreds of dollars a day.
The Gimli Road has been closed off. To get in there you will need a mule train, or better yet, the Space Shuttle. It is too far to walk and helicoptyers are forbidden to land in the area.
One consolation is that there are no bugs. Absolutely None!
The following images are PhotoShopped forgeries.
Gear Notes:
Hundreds of pitons. Forget kb and LA, take 2" angles and up exclusively.
Approach Notes:
See above. Allow at least a week to approach any peaks.
Climb: Valhallas-Lies About The Valhalla Range Date of Climb: 8/10/2005 Trip Report: The Valhallas are not well known, except for the south ridge of Gimli This is because the Valhallas suck. There is nothing else worth climbing there. All of the obvious lines were climbed a long time ago and they aren't very hard or very challenging. The rock is like the worst parts of Smith and Vantage combined. There is a guidebook which is easy to find and surprisingly accurate. All of the existing climbs grades are accurately listed in the guidebook. Ferocious bears are said to be quite rare in the area but we saw a lot of them anyway. At least 10 or 12 a day. There are no lakes, just mud puddles. Not big enough to swim in. The weather is generally superb. Thunder and lightning storms will NEVER come in on you half way up a climb. All of the existing routes have copious fixed hardware but none of it is trustworthy. Even though all the climbing is 5.4, it's 5.4 X on loose rock clipping closely spaced yet rusty bolts. A terrible place to be a beginner climber. The whole area is quite crowded with tourists, and very expensive. Permits cost hundreds of dollars a day. The Gimli Road has been closed off. To get in there you will need a mule train, or better yet, the Space Shuttle. It is too far to walk and helicoptyers are forbidden to land in the area. One consolation is that there are no bugs. Absolutely None! The following images are PhotoShopped forgeries. Gear Notes: Hundreds of pitons. Forget kb and LA, take 2" angles and up exclusively. Approach Notes: See above. Allow at least a week to approach any peaks.