Dru

if you are lucky you might even see guy edwards speed climbing something naked

Canada has helicopters that patrol the backcountry looking for unauthorized snowmobile use? I WISH! Maybe if the helicopter avalanche patrols used their bombs properly..... Snowmobiles are great tools to approach ice along snow covered logging roads but I don't like them in the alpine on glaciers any more than i like dirt bikes, 4x4's and logging trucks in alpine meadows. Most of the avvy fatalities in Canada this winter were snowmobilers and heliskiiers. Tells you something eh? However the patron saint of active resistance (St. Ed Abbey) noted that if you take some flagging tape and bury it just under the snow along a snowmobile trail the sled sucks it up into the treads then it melts on the engine and acts like sugar in a gastank anyone tried this technique out?

Chilliwack is a pretty fertile area that is for sure. The kids all go through grades 10-12 twice - first time as babies with their moms, second time as new parents It's kind of confusing at first, because it is such a religious area, when you notice that about 33% of the girls age 16 and up have kids already. I guess it is because they don't use pro. Then again I guess all the kids are not going at it with each other. I read somewhere that up to 50% of rural males have their first sexual experience with an animal????? That's a US statistic, makes you wonder about the Spokane 4H Club anyways...

You from Arkansas Tim? I hear that cousins get real friendly like down there. "Incest? Naw, we don't got no bugs 'round these here parts!"

There were no carnage shots. Take a photo of a 70's climber and spray catsup (ketchup to Americans) all over it if you want to fake one up.

www.bivouac.com/mtn

I think if you set up a ledge on a wall route no one is going to care. they are lots better than hanging belays anyways. now if you set it up in the middle of givler's crack, then there are going to be issues (like it would mean you are a poser) - don't laugh, I saw a guy set one up on the "big pin" at lighthouse park once!

One time about 8 years ago I was still pretty new to leading and launched into the first pitxch of Eagle's Domain on the Squaw with a buddy's rack. it was all original 1976 friends and home-made nuts and stuff. eagle's is all about 1 inch wide and i ran out of gear that fit about half way up so i started faking it with friends with 2 cams camming and rp stacks and stuff. got to a bit of fist jamming in a wet crack and both hands slimed out at once, slitting one wrist open on a quartz crystal on the way. so i'm airborne with blood spurting everywhere from my slashed wrist. last piece is a flared solid friend about 10 feet below. so i fall 20 feet and the friend rips. i get flipped around by the force of it blowing out so that i'm facing out and down like a base jumper. just have time to think "Oh shit I'm going to die " when the next piece, a sideways #3 hex on a home-reswaged wire, actually holds me, net fall, about 45 feet. my wrist was gashed deep but didn't need stitches but there was a lot of blood spraying and i looked like i was near death from the blood stains all over. friend andy drove me back home, called another partner, drove back to squamish and did the route. moral of the story -when you're leading something you could fall on it's better to use your own rack than someone else's, especially if theirs is crap.

Well it is sunny and dry in SW BC this morning! you can't always trust the forecasts. The weatheroffice.com site is the best forecast available, though. I think there is also a weather link on the cbc.com page somewhere but i can't be bothered to find it and post it here.

The k-30 is nothing like the k-50 (thank god), so you can ignore those responses, gord. I got one super cheap while working at arcteryx and have used it daily for about a year. no durability problems yet. it climbs quite well, a great route day pack. for multi day trips I take out the framesheet and roll it up, put the framesheet flat on the back of a bigger pack and carry it that way, then put it back together again for summit daypack. works great but slightly heavier than a serratus genie, however its worth it to have the back protection of the framesheet. still don't like the bungie cords for crampons but they work great to put a platypus in or stuff a jacket into when it gets hot. if you want to carry a bit more stuff the k-38 is ok but its wider hipbelt can get in the way of a harness (as you probably have already noticed with the b-40), you might as well go with the nozone then! [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 04-24-2001).]

Yes, was he pushed off a ledge over a dispute about the sportiness of Condommorphine Addition, or what? Is this the result of a sport-vs.-trad argument that got out of hand? Is the spray on Cascadeclimbers.com to blame?

Approach takes ~1 day from end of road via Chilliwack. I think you're talking about another day each way coming up from the south. SO, you make the call. Approach via US means trip takes 2 days more (1 day in and 1 day out)? I think most parties go in via Chilliwack Lake.

hey lambone, training for speed on routes you know lets you get faster, faster, than training for speed on routes you don't know, eh?

Amen vegetablebelay. Cascade climbing itself is often whimsical witness Beckey's description of one of the Index routes where his text invites one to "imitate a gorilla through the bushes to the next belay". Alex, if you want to send me a private message you could use that very feature of this site like "RayBorbon" just did (oops i hope i'm not giving away any secret identities here!) a few minutes ago. that would get a quicker response than my private email that I have promised my employers I will not look at at work! (but they didn't ask about message boards - and I didn't tell )

spray is off in its own directory (although the odd comment spills over on other threads), if you don't like it then don't check the messages in spray? or are you being forced or tricked into reading them somehow? i don't quite get your point.

You think that report is depressing look at the next one down on that page about the guy that hanged himself because his girlfriend and best friend "for an April fools joke" told him they were dating! whoa imagine if you were one of them - heavy life long guilt! of course maybe they WERE dating in secret and just set it up! (at least boltmonster and his goat won't have that problem !)

It's a good thing I'm not a Christian I would have had to go to a service on the weekend instead of climbing! Knees are for kneebarring not kneeling in pews! (Any offended Christians out there feel free to turn the other cheek) DrU (founding member of Solid Rock Climbers For Beer)

Of course now that this topic has moved to Spray Alexei is even more guilty of doing the very thing he is complaining about

I use "technical" crampons (Grivel Grade 8's) for all cramponing nowadays and they work fine. But if you want fully flexible crampons for 'floppy' leather boots I have had good experiences with Grivel F2's but get an antibotte plate (actually get antibottes for whatever crampon you buy).

HEY WHATSAMATTER BOLT MONSTER SOMEONE"S "GOT YOUR GOAT!!!!!" bwa ha ha! I see why you have a goat though - you're lucky that goats will eat anything. Or is it a mountin' goat?

Consider this situation - you're moving together easily along a rock ridge and suddenly the climber in front comes to a section that he/she feels requires a piece and belay. That would be a good time to be roped up but if you had put the rope away and been 3rd classing at that point the time it takes to dig it out, tie in and get the other end to the suddenly-needs-to-be-belayed climber, something bad could happen.... I agree with lambone on the less-experienced climber going first while simuling, that wway the more experienced climber can watch and fire in a belay if the top climber starts sketching. whereas the less experienced climber, coming last, may find a move you found easy, hard, suddenly slip, and give you a big tug you weren't expecting or prepared for

Actually, hash is produced in Canada in small quantities. At least once a year some trailer trash type will blow himself up while cooking down the hemp with Coleman fuel as a solvent or whatever and chain smoking. Boom! And Capt. Raveman, that's not pink lycra, it's pink skin under the infamous "transparent Lycra".

Maybe this thread should be discussing the ethical way to chop a bolt then? (IE, don't damage the rock, do it on lead, ground-up, patch the hole, after obtaining consensus from local climbers, and not if the bolt cannot be replaced by adjacent gear?)

What is it with Hollan Holmes anyways? Are his cartoons supposed to be funny or what? They are to Tami Knight and Derek Bourne what "Family Circus" is to "Maakies". http://www.fantagraphics.com/maakies/maakies.html

Forget Coast Guard rescues, what about when some dumb tourist's kid wanders off at Smith Rocks and has to get rescued from Bird Dung Chimney or incidents like that? Or rescuing snowmobilers who get their sleds buried in an avalanche?