Dru

central organ eh? don't forget to get some pink lycra and clip -on earrings to wear into the cowboy bars in Redmond. i hear that goes over with the locals real good ("Son, if you like your teeth, I wouldn't sit in that there seat.")

expect some partially open crevasses on the anniversary, and a lot of sloppy crud snow. I was up there a few wks ago and joffre glacier had some patches of blue ice showing in the seracs.

IMHO when it comes to slogging through the slush all day NO leather boot out there keeps your feet warm or dry. leather is great for rock and/or mixed, where it's dry, but for wet snow, so common hereabouts, plastic is the way to go.

probably not in the greatest shape right now with a meter of slushy new not yet bonded. but give it a week or two and it might be good.

I second the nomination for Cavedog if he promises to crack down on that Ray Bourbon character.

I just got to drive around in a government vehicle and check out some cragging areas in Mission and Abbotsford so I'm not disliking work too much today

melted out. write it off for this season. best before end of march, due to south aspect

As paraphrased from Canadian Alpine Journal 1970's: " The culprit was identified and a large group of climbers entered the Chieftan Hotel and forcibly apprehended him while he was drinking beer with some other friends. His friends were too frightened to intervene as the climbers dragged him away. The culprit was tied to a tree near Shannon Falls and a crowd of climbers formed up about 30 feet away. Everyone was given several large rocks with the promise that the first to break one of the offenders' bones would win a case of beer." A large cache of stolen pins, carabiners, ropes etc. was later recovered as a result of this incident. Bring back climber vigilante justice!

"Coast Mountain Sports" - Metrotown - Burnaby, West 4th Ave - Kitsalino, Park Royal North - West Vancouver.

Yeah, if Dick Cilley is a joke who was that guy selling ugly J-Tree tshirts out of his VW van in Josh last time I was there?

Is Mt. Superelevation anywhere near the Middle Pongo Tower and the Shmeeb? I hear the Howling Existential Angst (*) route on the Shmeeb has some good ice. *First ascent by "Roger, Hyperconshuss Master of the Extreem" as documented by T. Knight.

As for the Team t-shirts just get any old climbing t-shirt like a YMS "Go Climb A Rock" shirt from 1989, then leave it in your trunk for a year and pour some beer on it. That will do! As for Ray Borbon bringing the beer, or Ray Beer bringing the bourbon, remember "you get what you pay for", if he shows up with Lucky you have waived your right to complain. And Team Weak Drunkards will only become Team Harsh Tokes when you guys come up to Squamish, as I am unwilling to smuggle. I will be there all weekend this weekend, weather permitting.

I dunno UW but he's like the god of 80's hard face climbing where he was too trad to bolt stuff and too slack to redpoint or yoyo hard runout cracks so he just TR'ed everything. He's one of those original unique types of American climbing like Tucker Tech or Chongo. You know, guys who aren't sponsored or spraying all over mags but somehow have lived the last 30 years as perpetual climbing bums, who are always drunk or stoned and look out of shape but do hard 5.11 offwidths in flip flops "off the couch" anyways. More props to them! My idols!

when you visit Canada you will be compensated appropriately if not exactly in kind. maybe in smokeable not drinkable, capt. burbonman

Oh wow you blew Dick!

About 5-6 years ago. I've told people that didn't know any better (like Border Guards) I was a sponsored climber once or twice but I have never told anyone I was a Dick! (I've told annoying people I thought THEY were Dicks though).

To qualify for TEAM WEAK DRUNKARDS stringent membership requirements you must be able to drink alcohol (sorry Aidan) and realize that the whole thing is really a sarcastic flame directed at "Team Harsh Realm" for making the West Butt out to be something worthwile and posting centerold pix of his girlfriend on his website! I took one look at that site and the spray quotient was so high stuff is still dripping off my computer.... The alpinestout thing was just a gag directed at mikeadam's alpinelite site. Lite beer is no fitting drink for alpinism! Remember stout beer = more calories = warmer bivis.

1) Contact the original first ascencders. Did they agree on adding the extra bolts? If they did you are out of luck on the consensus bolt removal. Go put up a runout route somewhere else to counteract this trend. 2) If they didn't agree to the new bolts you are going to need a crowbar or metal saw plus some handy stuff to pull or grind flush the extra bolts and/or fill in the holes. The crowbar also comes in handy for fighting off pissed off sportclimbers. (PS I "retrobolted" two of my own runout routes last weekend but it was only 2 bolts per route added and just to protect the groundfall sections. the routes were originally put up without a drill because my buddy's broke the weekend I was scheduled to borrow it. the climbs are both still gear climbs. BUT anyone who wants, can chop the bolts if they disagree with this. send me $20 and I will tell you where the routes are )

Why would anyone want to climb next to someone else at vantage? i'm sure the rain of mobile holds from above would be enough deterrent for most sane persons.

Capt. Caveman - yeah,maybe I can get enough sponsorship together to buy a guide for an ascent of Banana Peel? Actually I think a close analogy of this site is already up and running at www.alpinestout.com

... was observed climbing 5.9 and easier routes in the Smoke Bluffs on Saturday until the rain started. Then it was off to the brewpub. What d'yall think - should I set up my own website like www.supermegawankerspray.com and offer everyone beta on how to dog your way up 10c's and where to park your car in the Apron parking lot?

"A touch of OJ"? Is that with a bloody glove and low speed chase or what?

no, let it die!

A mumu is a big sack dress like fat women wear. Guy, Vance, John Millar etc. are currently ski traversing from Vancouver to Skagway Alaska, they are in Terrace this week, a month ahead of schedule. No word on nudity or porcupine hats yet.

Oh well, don't write it off yet, remember it was supposed to rain today and it is 'reeeeelly' nice. Too bad I'm stuck in the office. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 04-25-2001).]