Dru

Nolanr, how do you know they're really women? Remember 60% of those with female user names on the net are really men* * This figure courtesy of the Bureau of Misleading Statistics.

I'm all for mass extinction as long as it takes out you guys and I survive.

Jugs of Stout!

I like cleaning jugs with my tongue I don't want Caveman's color photos I hear the fold outs are stuck together.

I like solitude. Never had a problem with crowds on a first ascent. If you don't like crowds... try going someplace that isn't popular. Pick a festination out of something other than 50 Crowded Climbs and/or Selected Crowded Climbs. If you are heading for something like Snow Lake, Diedre, or Disappointment Cleaver you are going to have to accept that a lot of other people will be doing the same thing.

The anchors are "good enough". You walk off on Bellygood, typically, or you can rap the Ben's rap line (need 55m +60m ropes at minimum) At this time of year best to set up on a weekday as every bumbly in the multiverse not on Cannabis Wall will be doing U Wall on a weekend and learning how to haul and top step 1 pitch in front of you (while their girlfriends learn how to jug and clean )

Do you have the first or second edition? Second edition has relatively lots of beta. All c1 with short cruxes, take two baby angles for hand placing and a few cam hooks. Bivi at the tree top of p. 4 or 5 or fix lines like real squamish hardmen and bivi in the pub. Shouldn't this post be under BC and not Alpine Lakes?????????

this isn't the answer, but it should have been : Mount Analogue Favorite Trevanian quote: "He was busier than a one-legged man in an ass-kicking contest." Which book?

Don't forget to bring a plastic crazy carpet for the north face of north sis. Nice bouldering in the moraine on your way out.

What's wrong with headpoint style? So you know these guys - did they ask the first ascencionists first, or what?

being a non-local climber i'm not going to vote tho' if i could i would vote for removal, but has anyone thought about contacting the first ascencionist or first free ascencionist for their opinions?? or does the opinion of the FA party matter to you? and when you mean consensus do you mean of cascadeclimbers or of 'all' Wa. climbers?? [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 05-18-2001).]

oooh, the Fremont troll speaks!

hey check out this link: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000415.html they can probably make no-trace, stick -on, removable bolts out of this stuff too. the old era of drilled holes may end and make all our ethics obsolete!!

Nice TR erik. Well described affirmation of one of the more obscure and lesser appreciated branches of climbing (and it's all climbing - buildering, bouldering, trees, rocks, mountains, ice, choss, cranes, large animals, fixed ropes, out of bed, whatever) What species is your girlfriend? Have you made the big step up to human yet?

How long do you think it will take for 5.10 to buy the rights to this one? Can they make stick-on bolts out of it? http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/sci/tech/newsid_1334000/1334582.stm

The whole bum thing is aptly described in a Tami Knight cartoon in one illustration: "Bum Schuss - get sticks up yer bum". Standing is good. Sitting is bad. Mostly. The one exception I have found is when the snow crust breaks through standing, but not sitting. better to sit & schuss then than stand &plod. Or at the end of an 18 hour day when you are too tired to stand up, just sit down on the ol garbage bag and 1 2 3 go!!!

I agree, and I made up that bit about Fred doing City Park too!! There seems to be a lot of spray sneaking out of its closet and infecting the other boards, ya? I wonder why the Big Lou thread is not on spray by now? Cause Tim is moving or what? To reaffirm the spray nature of this post -oh yeah?well so's your mom!

well i heard that fred beckey actually free climbed city park in 71 but he's forgotten it now and it's the one ascent he never told anyone about.... i was climbing scary canary while the bolters were doing dan's and i would have to say it is not a pure sport climb, there are 2 gear placements supplementing 8 or 9 bolts. a true sport climber would therefore call it a trad route?????

the downside of the triple fissureman is that it's so big it jams like a nut, in narrow spots in cracks, and either catches when you are placing or when the hex is racked on your harness.... i tied off my hexes in 1990 with double fishermens and those same knots haven't moved an inch in 10 years (admittedly for the last 5 I haven't even used my hexes but..)

pin scars are for tri-cams. for the narrow scars that's where you need home made 0.2s and 0.3's on wire

hey mikeadam what happened to Tintin and Captain Haddock on the moon? your site is gone and there is a mean spirited rant in its place about "fame?"

make sure the knot is about halfway down on one side of loop for smaller sizes. if placed at bottom of loop it can flip biners around and at top it can stick in crack and push hex out. best place for it on larger hexes is inside the hex... length wise, try measuring it so a tied loop hangs from your gear loop down to mid-thigh. that avoids the hex-in-the-knees curse. i think you want about 75 centimeter lengths of cord before you begin knot-tying of course, if you make it longer, its easier to use as an emergency prussik!!

I know that large group from Canada. They summitted by using inexperienced neophytes breaking trail to batter down the snow into a huge boot-packed trench all the way to the summit and back. No casualties. They are going to be on Sulphide Gl. this weekend but are wise enough to take skis this time! (Advanced warning).

Bolts are beautiful works of art - representing the triumph of the human soul over fear of commitment and danger - and should be placed everywhere to enhance persons' appreciation of nature. This includes up the Peace Arch and on the Fremont Troll.

borrowed a friends once and i would say they are most useful for aid, or in particular sizes for particular routes. in 10 yrs. of climbing at squamish i can only think of one place on one route where they would work where nothing else will (for free routes anyways). pretty much a specialist piece IMHO.