Dru

I saw no whippers. Yes Laurin the German ice god sent No Deductable (but hung on a bolt ) and deeping Wall Direct etc. but then again the dude has done Nemesis and Riptide and M8+ in the Riockies so it is nice of him to visit our local test pieces and humbly condescend to doing them I beat him at pool though

well, they cal Shriek of the Sheep a 4+ too... and I ve seen that pillar.... ya right, 5 fer sure! and what about the Rockies, man, Grotto Falls is Grade 2 not 3, same with This House of Sky. I guess everywhere but Montana is underrated. our beer may be pricy but that's what you pay for QUALITY. actually it s cheaper than "good" US beer. $11 for a 6 pack of Lucky's? that must have been off sales at a Beer and Wine store. hit the Liquor Store for better deals like $9.50 for a 6er of Ok Springs Olde English Porter (9% alc/vol) [ 01-29-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

Friday: beat the crowds (ha). ICy BC. I led ist pitch. cam led 2nd pitch. guy edwards led the 3rd pitch ( his party ran around the hike up and beat us to the 2nd pitch while we were clinmbing the 1st) and we cheated and made him leave his screws in so we could "pink point " ETHICS POLICE WARNING!!! Saturday: Synchronmicity looked like some ice was missing to get to the ramp so we hit the rambles. did a 2 pitch (3, 4) on the far right then a 1-pitch 2+ in the middle, did not continue further up that routebecause vegiebelay had a party of seven further up the drainage. 6 ppl. on the left line so we hiked out and visited the Tube which was not in. (thin pillar to verglas) saturday night: everyone walked around going "where is ray?" but ray didn't show up so we drank his beer and stole his women & won 2 games of pool when opponents sunk the 8ball in the wrong pocket sunday: Night N Gale. no avvy hazard, snow quite stable. we were the only ones there. long hike to a 30m 2+ pitch (soloed but scary on hollow funky ice) then the main falls were a 60m 3+ pitch to a 65m 2+ pitch. I dunno HOW this route gets 4+ in the guide. nowhere close. if the upper curtain on the first pitch forms a bit more and hides the ramp it might go from 3+ to 4 but calling it 4+ is quite a stretch. as it is if you can lead oregon jack you will have no problems on this route. cam froze a toe and moaned for hours on the drive home. i got a cold and sniffled. it got COLD on Sunday. lots of ice appearing and forming FAST.

see you in Lillooet MF's!! 4:20 out of here.

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: I did not realize that there was a soap opera based in B.C. what channel is it on? in cascasdeclimbers.com, that's on MSNBC I think

I find, on slab climbs, much of the time on harder routes continual motion is the key to climbing, and if you stop, you fall off. so it makes sense to only have bolts at stances, you cant clip the other ones anyways, and if you fell off and hit an unclipped bolt it could hurt you. but again, on most slabs, taking a 30 or 40 footer wont cause any permanent damage, so its easier to run it out than on a vertical face with bulges and overhangs where you could swing into the wall and impact.

Hunter Creek - access issues though. you got to wade up the ceek to avoid private land. Old Hope aka Gold Rush - lots of hard stuff. just off Hwy 1 6 km west of hope. park by the Hope next 4 exits sign and walk back 100m to find a trail. north facing, damp in springtime, huge spiders nothing much under v4ish. Lake Of The Woods - 2km north of hope. right by hwy 1. thousands? of boulders, maybe 75 problems to date. lots of easier problems and even cracks. mostly where i climb. might be the biggest boulder field outside of the soo slide, in SW BC. Elbow Lake - north of Chilliwack on the road to the Chehalis. some problems to v8 and lots of swimming in the summertime. Chilliwack Valley - limestone as described and also along the post Creek trail at Chilliwack Lake (granite and conglomerate) Hope Slide - by the parking lot on hwy 3. metamorphics. Rockface - on Hwy 7 near the trailer park of the same name. mostly undeveloped. access can be swampy in the spring. Saddle Rock - 50km north of hope - mostly undeveloped. look out for squatters living under the boulders. Nicolum - across from Nicolum Prov park on Hwy 3. about 10 boulders roadside with a cool 60m wall behind. undeveloped (i think) there are some others Im not allowed to talk about too

just wanted to let everybody know that there is a revolutionary new lunch meat out there. it is called SPAM! that's right, SPAM! I am not associated with the company at all but it is so good that i thought i would let you all know how good it is . uh uh yum!!!

the people that originally developed skaha were the ones who were getting old and burned off at squamish by the harder climbers. except rick cox and gary wolkoff, the interior boys... those guys rated HARD!!!!! like Turbocharger at 10a, that was the worlds hardest 10a at that grade, its 10d now but most people still think its harder than that....

ive only been to leavenworth for Wash. bouldering and thats all im gonna do until i can climb royal flush V2 is my all time best, and that was at J Tree oh actually...not true... i went bouldering at larabee too. if you like that check out the coastline on saturna island or galiano... like 2 mile long sea level traverses on overhanging huecos... i think there is loads of potential in both places but maybe BC has it better since we were more glaciated so there are more boulders lying around from the glaciers melting? there are definitely about 5x the boulders near hope that there are near squamish, but 1/1000th of the climbers. the moss is winning the battle.... [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

Better alert the fire hall and PEP too, wouldn't want the CLOUDS OF SMOKE to cause a false alarm if they thought there was some forest fire burning

Squamish, Squamish, Squamish, some kid wiping out on a skateboard , the Soo Slide boulders at Pemberton, some mystery routes, Pocket Desert, onsight pulling holds off mayhem, a dog climbing v1, Hwy 3, Squamish, squamish, Hope Blair witch style in the rain, some other stuff I forgot. it won a prize at the VIMFF last year or so.

try emailing fivepointproductions@hotmail.com

"I find...the knob's...a little stiffer" Heinous you just cant seem to stop the innuendo can you?

as imagined on cc.com, what real legends would say if they posted here: jbumbly : Hi I'm thinking of climbing the North Norwegian Buttress. What are conditions like and what should I bring along? STEVEHOUSE : Hi jbumbly conditions are great with 2 feet of slush over loose rock and vegetation. take a headlamp, 2 tools and 50 gu packets. BATSO_HARDING : Jbumbly I would take 5 gallons of red wine, a Dolt cart and 300 bolts. F.W.BECKEY : Buy my book you cheap bastard!

quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: So, you must be referring to asscrack? no, your ex

it depends on the weather - generally I would guess pocket desert is as climbable as Skaha, IE starting sometime in late February if you dont mind the cold but dry conditions. FWIW Scott Milton says Hwy 3 is better than pocket desert. more potential. if you can find Brian Goldstone's No Strings Attached bouldering video it has some footage of both areas. the boulders are a mix of granite and metamorphic. chilliwack limestone - the bouldering is near slesse creek bridge. right off the road. look out for fishermen taking shits in the landing zone. there are great pocketed overhang problems. pockets vanish as you traverse along into the forest. HOWEVER there are lots of steep limestone cliffs on the north side of the valley just above the Chilliwack Bench Forest service road, from about Thurston to the mouth of Airplane Creek. hikes of up to 30 minutes to the base. little development so far, Mike Crapo put up I think about 5-6 sport routes in the 11 and 12 range on one obvious 50m high crag near Airplane Creek. most of the other cliffs are untouched. i dont know how pocketed most of this stuff is, I think it is fairly karstic so it should have them. [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

I don't suck. I lick

Bc bouldering: east of the mountains, Pocket Desert near Osoyoos has stuff to v8 i think... also at Skaha there are boulders in the Grand Canyon with lots of potential... the best site in the south Interior is along Hwy 3 & old Nickle Plate Rd. between Keremeos and Princeton, literally hundreds of boulders, free camping, flat landings worth a few weekends. in the local area if you are bored of the Squamish corridor the fraser valey has tons of bouldering from overhanging pocketed limestone cliff bands just off the road in chilliwack valley, to 4 or 5 areas out around hope with maybe 200 problems up to v10. that's like 2 hrs. drive from bellingham... better than larabee guidebook maybe out this spring ?

sure.... rub it in.... remind me that today it is +6 and raining in Lillooet GO WALLSTEIN GO!

quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: Ah shit, now you're trying to compare 5.11 sport to ice climbing? Dru, please. No I'm comparing climbing 5.11 to drinking learn to read mofo I've never climbed with you Dru so you have to know that I was pulling your chain. Didn't you see the Razz gremlin? Besides, I consider it very bad style to comment on someone else's climbing unless said person puts your life in danger and you feel obligated to warn someone who may be considering that person as a partner. Also, YOU admitted to sketching on 5.11. As for my own climbing, I firmly believe in modesty. Action, not words! But this topic sort of pushed me into commenting on my climbing which I try to steer away from. Because, in all honesty, I DO SUCK!! I just had a "good day" a few months back. Now my beer belly won't let me get up anything. As for Squamish? Crack and sport are two different animals and I readily admit that I suck at crack. Now, when it comes to pleasuring women, there is no "better" then I. -Heinous I actually mistyped that. I meant sketching on 5.1 not 5.11 I like how you mentioned you "suck...crack"[sic] right next to the comment about pleasuring women. Talk about subliminal reinforcement! Trask are you paying attention here?

quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: Dru, don't try to justify your shitty technique and style by placing your attempted routes in the same catagory as the hard shit that Sharma and Graham are playing on. 5.9s and 5.10s are hardly comparable to 5.14. -Heinous Look assmunch thats pretty bold talking about style cause we will see who has the better style in Lillooet this weekend. I have been training a bottle of rum a night for the last month. Im going to still be sending (beers down my throat ) while you are passed out in a frozen puddle of puke outside the back door of the pub. I give you warning PS If you wanna put your money where your mouth is climbing I got some routes in Squamish for you to fail on

LEGION HALL FRIDAY NIGHT ANYTIME AFTER ABOUT 6 PM THEN MUGS & DRUGS I MEAN JUGS

I like power drillin' BRRRRRRRP BRRRRP BRRRRP BRRRP tnk tink tink! I like runouts too. But I dont like hitting stuff when I fall off cause it hurts. So usually I try not to fall in that situation. Bolt ladders are dumb Anymore ethical wisdom ??

With a thread like the Boskoff thread for guidance howcome Rodchester hasnt jumped in yet and said he thought this is disrespectful to Kitty Calhoun?