Dru

www.elaho.ca for mail order????or in most climbing stores.

Brent Mathieson died on Thursday night as he was driving up to the Lillooet Ice Fest. He spun his car out in snowy conditions on Highway 12 and rolled it twice. Here is some info about a memorial that is being held if you knew him: Memorial Service for Brent Mathieson A gathering in honour of Brent Mathieson will be held on Saturday, February 2, 2002 at the Mountain Equipment Co-Op. Challenges in securing a location for this event were encountered and MEC has graciously offered to host and help organize the memorial. The address is 130 West Broadway with doors opening at 7:30 PM. Everyone who has been touched by Brent's presence is invited to attend and share stories, photographs, and memories. A number of speakers will lead us through an exploration of Brent's impact on our community followed by time for social interaction and celebration of Brent's life. Refreshments and a selection of light snacks will be provided. If you have slides, photographs or other memorabilia that you would like presented on Saturday, please contact Dana Lindahl by phone at (604) 675-9396 or by email at adventuresonearth@telus.net. There will be space available for anything you feel appropriate to present for the gathering, including any audio/visual aids that you may require. For more information or to offer your help in any way, please contact Karrie Kaszczuk by phone at (604) 730-5065 (email kkaszczuk@mec.ca) or Dave Sulina at (604) 988-7490 (email dsulina@pacifccoast.net). A trust fund has been opened in Brent's name at the Royal Bank of Canada. Donations in lieu of flowers will be accepted at the memorial or can be made directly at any Royal Bank Branch.. The focus of these funds is yet to be determined but they will be directed towards a cause worthy of Brent's vision and ideals. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and carefully considered. The difficulty in finding a location for this memorial has limited the ability to effectively advertise plans for Saturday. Please make all efforts to forward this message to any who may wish to attend.

quote: Originally posted by max: I'm pretty sure this is the technique (sucsessfully) used on the Fang and Rigid Designator near Vail. I think steel chain and some big-ass trees are used. http://images.climbingboulder.com/ice/3/the_fang.jpg [ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: max ] how come when it cracks in half at the end of the year, there is no chain exposed then?

It just went above Freezing today in Chilliwack and all the ice in Hopestarted to melt. It willprobably suck by tomorrow. whistler and/or north of boston bar is probably where the ice starts. cayoosh is southwest of lillooet. bridge is west and slightly north. get the damn guidebook or wait a few years till Serl and Kay (and Knight and Condon?) do the update.

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: According to Number 2, Dr. Evil owns a lot of stuff. Even factories that make little factories. I think that is Dr. von Neumann not Dr. Evil

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: "Laser" No shit, Dr. Evil owns Boreal??

I dont think I ever dropped a screw on the route from one...I would have heard it I have 3 and put 3-4 screws on each. I think the screws are somehow falling off during descents or while bushwacking between pitches or whatever because I have never heard or seen one detach - just racking up the next day one is gone somewhere. Maybe aliens are abducting them ???

quote: Originally posted by trask: "The details of my life are really quite inconsequential...Very well, where do I begin? My father was a relentlessly self-improving boulangerie owner from Belgium with low grade narcolepsy and a penchant for buggery. My mother was a fifteen year old French prostitute named Cloe with webbed feet. My father would womanize, he would drink. He would make outrageous claims like he invented the question mark. Sometimes he would accuse chestnuts of being lazy. The sort of general malaise that only the genius passess and the insane lament. My childhood was typical. Summers in Rangoon, luge lessons. In the spring we'd make meat helmets. When I was insolent I wasplaced in a burlap bag and beaten with reeds- pretty standard really. At the age of twelve I received my first scribe. At the age of fourteen a Zoroastrian named Vilma ritualistically shaved my testicles. There really is nothing like a shorn scrotum...it's breathtaking, I suggest you try it." more to follow - Sounds like some T. Coraghessan Boyle you are plagiarizing from there

yeah I'm talkin to you!!!!! hey you!!!! you cc.com member who is lurking out there! I see you all on the http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=whos_online busy reading topics but you never post anything! C'mon, resolve to post at least once a day even if it is something as stupid as this Lets help jon and tim justify all their fancy bandwidth and whatnot. All together now: take that little mouse - slide it up over the box that says : Post New Topic : click - there ya go!! Remember, quantity is better than quality when you are bored at work. [ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

CASCADE LEGEND SIGHTING!!!!!! Rodchester take note! Anybody looking for a big face to ski should check out the east and south faces of Silvertip. 2000m vertical Has the NE face of Redoubt been skied? seems to me i heard it had but can't recall the source. maybe it was John Chilton?

trask has a latex sleeping bag rated at 40 PSI.

wait for arcteryx or patagucci to do the R&D then steal(copy) the design from them. it works for MEC!

you need the $1200 electronic carabiner that was hyped on rec.climbing about 2 years ago. i believe Gander Mountain has some in stock. seriously, though, quicklinks work fine, get the stainless ones though, and no need for rap rings as well unless you are worried about rope twisting. for building permanent stations on new routes I find a pair of bolts, hangers, lap links or quicklinks, and two 3" lengths of 3/8" stainless chain makes for a bomber rap station.

i saw a 11mm break once but it was in a tug of war with 30 climbers pulling on each end of it.

quote: Originally posted by max: It seems like I've had the "best day ever" happen to me several times. I've been finishing a day that seemed so regular...no huge climbs, no super hard pitches, maybe not even that long of a day. But as I'm walking back to the car I think to myself "This is probably the best day of climbing ever! I love climbing" Maybe I'm just easy to please. Maybe I've got bad memory. The ordinary days of climbing are pretty good but there are some that stick out even years later for me - a bunch of alpine climbs like Purple People Eaters, Lillarete, Standing Wave, Beautiful Nightmare, s. ridge of Gimli and east ridge of Rexford, the Matriarch to Grimface traverse; then things like doing White Lightning and Squamish Buttress for the first time; Gibraltar Wall, Weeping Wall, Moonlight; passing parties left and right on Black Orpheous; rapping of Space Shot in a thunderstorm; a "fifteen-star day" at J-Tree in December; Keyhole Canyon near Red Rocks; stumbling back to camp after 21 hours on Redoubt and watching David Persson have enough energy to ski a quick run on his short skis while the soup water was boiling; soloing 20 routes at the Smoke bluffs in about 5 hours then just sitting on top of Pink Kliff and watching eagles soar; soloing Banana Peel for the first time; putting up "Routopia" at Skaha, cleaning onsight from the ground up and throwing holds at my belayers Basically the stuff where i went climbing and had a good time and did something that was memorable in some way, and gfelt like life was worth living, and that climbing was what it was all about. sorry for the spray about myself and a serious post for once

i just went to monos this year (Charlet M10's) and i really like them. for just straight in kicking i dont notice a difference but for mixed moves and stemming and corners where you are moving your feet more, a mono lets you move your foot around and not have your points lose contact. they are also better for mixed climbing (except Rafael Slawinski says Sabretooths are the best ) as you can get n to smaller features and in cracks better with only 1 point. i think they work your calves a bit more too. also the M10 you can make mono, dual, offset mono, offset dual, etc etc. except the antibotte sucks!!!! and Grivel Rambocomp and M10 and Bionic all ripped off the DMM Terminator design, and the Terminator is cheaper than any of them at MEC, so maybe you should get that? You can even put horizontal front points and heel spurs on the terminator... [ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

if you drop gear, even from your hand onto the carpet, it becomes unsafe and should be retired. please send all such gear you want retired to me as i can guarantee it will not fall into the hands of climbers and be reused again and cause accidents.

Day trip it from the new logging road that runs to just below WilliamsonLake. welch is a better peak. see www.bivouac.com for more info. look out for avalanches in May. oh yes, this question should be in "British Columbia" not "North cascades" because our Cascades are north of nothing much...

arent you worried if you took that many pictures of your ass you might start to notice it growing?

C'mon page 2. spray is good

RUM

I get most of my rap slings thanks to guys like Norman Clyde, who leave extra bomber webbing in perfectly good anchors. My best score was a full set up of locking biners and sewn webbing somene had left on the anchors atop Orchard Rock when they rapped off. wait, you say - Orchard Rock has rap ring anchors. exactly BOOTY

Keep Beckey away from your women. "So, your boyfriend is a sport climber huh? do you want to climb some mountains with me? WHAT?"

I think, if I could free solo the NE buttress of Slesse, that I would be happy if that was the only climbing accomplishment of my season.

If Dwayner is "Alpine buddy" (that term affects me the way the term "freshies" affects Dwayner) does that make RURP "little buddy" like Gilligan?