Dru

http://www2.mybc.com/news/bc/fs.cfm?source_id=CKNW&id=1059862

i fixed mine... you fix yours!

I like this one: [ 01-29-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

For a moment there... I was mad that you locked and then unlocked the thread in order to unlawfully sneak in the 14th page post... good one

quote: Originally posted by fern: he says that's probably the hardest pitch he's ever lead ... I told him it's only M2 and he's just weak He said he knew how to play pool too.

no deductable is now a 3 pitch route. Pitch one: to first bolt. pitch two: first to third bolt. pitch 3: to top

Yeah N& G was making weird noises like it was going to dinner plate half pitch-high chunks as we climbed it. SCARY. I think there was an ice layer over snow over ice, and the outer crust was breaking, but was bonded to the snow underneath... it certainly encouraged one to place good screws even though the climbingwasnt that hard.

quote: Originally posted by pope: Anyway, she showed an interest in climbing Mt.Rainier and so I invited her to join a team of assorted novices I intended to lead up the mountain. "Hi my name is pope and I will be your Mountaineers Glacier Travel Course Team Leader today!"

I saw no whippers. Yes Laurin the German ice god sent No Deductable (but hung on a bolt ) and deeping Wall Direct etc. but then again the dude has done Nemesis and Riptide and M8+ in the Riockies so it is nice of him to visit our local test pieces and humbly condescend to doing them I beat him at pool though

well, they cal Shriek of the Sheep a 4+ too... and I ve seen that pillar.... ya right, 5 fer sure! and what about the Rockies, man, Grotto Falls is Grade 2 not 3, same with This House of Sky. I guess everywhere but Montana is underrated. our beer may be pricy but that's what you pay for QUALITY. actually it s cheaper than "good" US beer. $11 for a 6 pack of Lucky's? that must have been off sales at a Beer and Wine store. hit the Liquor Store for better deals like $9.50 for a 6er of Ok Springs Olde English Porter (9% alc/vol) [ 01-29-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

Friday: beat the crowds (ha). ICy BC. I led ist pitch. cam led 2nd pitch. guy edwards led the 3rd pitch ( his party ran around the hike up and beat us to the 2nd pitch while we were clinmbing the 1st) and we cheated and made him leave his screws in so we could "pink point " ETHICS POLICE WARNING!!! Saturday: Synchronmicity looked like some ice was missing to get to the ramp so we hit the rambles. did a 2 pitch (3, 4) on the far right then a 1-pitch 2+ in the middle, did not continue further up that routebecause vegiebelay had a party of seven further up the drainage. 6 ppl. on the left line so we hiked out and visited the Tube which was not in. (thin pillar to verglas) saturday night: everyone walked around going "where is ray?" but ray didn't show up so we drank his beer and stole his women & won 2 games of pool when opponents sunk the 8ball in the wrong pocket sunday: Night N Gale. no avvy hazard, snow quite stable. we were the only ones there. long hike to a 30m 2+ pitch (soloed but scary on hollow funky ice) then the main falls were a 60m 3+ pitch to a 65m 2+ pitch. I dunno HOW this route gets 4+ in the guide. nowhere close. if the upper curtain on the first pitch forms a bit more and hides the ramp it might go from 3+ to 4 but calling it 4+ is quite a stretch. as it is if you can lead oregon jack you will have no problems on this route. cam froze a toe and moaned for hours on the drive home. i got a cold and sniffled. it got COLD on Sunday. lots of ice appearing and forming FAST.

see you in Lillooet MF's!! 4:20 out of here.

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: I did not realize that there was a soap opera based in B.C. what channel is it on? in cascasdeclimbers.com, that's on MSNBC I think

I find, on slab climbs, much of the time on harder routes continual motion is the key to climbing, and if you stop, you fall off. so it makes sense to only have bolts at stances, you cant clip the other ones anyways, and if you fell off and hit an unclipped bolt it could hurt you. but again, on most slabs, taking a 30 or 40 footer wont cause any permanent damage, so its easier to run it out than on a vertical face with bulges and overhangs where you could swing into the wall and impact.

Hunter Creek - access issues though. you got to wade up the ceek to avoid private land. Old Hope aka Gold Rush - lots of hard stuff. just off Hwy 1 6 km west of hope. park by the Hope next 4 exits sign and walk back 100m to find a trail. north facing, damp in springtime, huge spiders nothing much under v4ish. Lake Of The Woods - 2km north of hope. right by hwy 1. thousands? of boulders, maybe 75 problems to date. lots of easier problems and even cracks. mostly where i climb. might be the biggest boulder field outside of the soo slide, in SW BC. Elbow Lake - north of Chilliwack on the road to the Chehalis. some problems to v8 and lots of swimming in the summertime. Chilliwack Valley - limestone as described and also along the post Creek trail at Chilliwack Lake (granite and conglomerate) Hope Slide - by the parking lot on hwy 3. metamorphics. Rockface - on Hwy 7 near the trailer park of the same name. mostly undeveloped. access can be swampy in the spring. Saddle Rock - 50km north of hope - mostly undeveloped. look out for squatters living under the boulders. Nicolum - across from Nicolum Prov park on Hwy 3. about 10 boulders roadside with a cool 60m wall behind. undeveloped (i think) there are some others Im not allowed to talk about too

just wanted to let everybody know that there is a revolutionary new lunch meat out there. it is called SPAM! that's right, SPAM! I am not associated with the company at all but it is so good that i thought i would let you all know how good it is . uh uh yum!!!

the people that originally developed skaha were the ones who were getting old and burned off at squamish by the harder climbers. except rick cox and gary wolkoff, the interior boys... those guys rated HARD!!!!! like Turbocharger at 10a, that was the worlds hardest 10a at that grade, its 10d now but most people still think its harder than that....

ive only been to leavenworth for Wash. bouldering and thats all im gonna do until i can climb royal flush V2 is my all time best, and that was at J Tree oh actually...not true... i went bouldering at larabee too. if you like that check out the coastline on saturna island or galiano... like 2 mile long sea level traverses on overhanging huecos... i think there is loads of potential in both places but maybe BC has it better since we were more glaciated so there are more boulders lying around from the glaciers melting? there are definitely about 5x the boulders near hope that there are near squamish, but 1/1000th of the climbers. the moss is winning the battle.... [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

Better alert the fire hall and PEP too, wouldn't want the CLOUDS OF SMOKE to cause a false alarm if they thought there was some forest fire burning

Squamish, Squamish, Squamish, some kid wiping out on a skateboard , the Soo Slide boulders at Pemberton, some mystery routes, Pocket Desert, onsight pulling holds off mayhem, a dog climbing v1, Hwy 3, Squamish, squamish, Hope Blair witch style in the rain, some other stuff I forgot. it won a prize at the VIMFF last year or so.

try emailing fivepointproductions@hotmail.com

"I find...the knob's...a little stiffer" Heinous you just cant seem to stop the innuendo can you?

as imagined on cc.com, what real legends would say if they posted here: jbumbly : Hi I'm thinking of climbing the North Norwegian Buttress. What are conditions like and what should I bring along? STEVEHOUSE : Hi jbumbly conditions are great with 2 feet of slush over loose rock and vegetation. take a headlamp, 2 tools and 50 gu packets. BATSO_HARDING : Jbumbly I would take 5 gallons of red wine, a Dolt cart and 300 bolts. F.W.BECKEY : Buy my book you cheap bastard!

quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: So, you must be referring to asscrack? no, your ex

it depends on the weather - generally I would guess pocket desert is as climbable as Skaha, IE starting sometime in late February if you dont mind the cold but dry conditions. FWIW Scott Milton says Hwy 3 is better than pocket desert. more potential. if you can find Brian Goldstone's No Strings Attached bouldering video it has some footage of both areas. the boulders are a mix of granite and metamorphic. chilliwack limestone - the bouldering is near slesse creek bridge. right off the road. look out for fishermen taking shits in the landing zone. there are great pocketed overhang problems. pockets vanish as you traverse along into the forest. HOWEVER there are lots of steep limestone cliffs on the north side of the valley just above the Chilliwack Bench Forest service road, from about Thurston to the mouth of Airplane Creek. hikes of up to 30 minutes to the base. little development so far, Mike Crapo put up I think about 5-6 sport routes in the 11 and 12 range on one obvious 50m high crag near Airplane Creek. most of the other cliffs are untouched. i dont know how pocketed most of this stuff is, I think it is fairly karstic so it should have them. [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]