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Everything posted by Dru
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quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: when i went there i felt really unconfortable about bouldering, mostly because of the signs about staying on the main trail and the fact that the environment is so fragile. do you think that people should be bouldering there at all? the good thing about the cycle is it gives the plants an opportunity to regrow. frankly on the coast i have seen areas scubbed to bare rock and totally regrow in 5 years. skaha is drier, different story, but some of those cracks have regrown to unclimbability in 10 years... bigger problem is base areas like Fern Gully and Grassy Glades now known as Dust Bowl...
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quote: Originally posted by dberdinka: One more It took me two trips to the Valhalla Range to climb the South Arete of Gimli. Both times the area was very dry, quiet, still. It's hard to explain but it certainly has a very desolate, melancholy feel to it (this was before it's recent explosion in popularity). On the first trip my partner was wigged out by this atmosphere I described and we bailed a few pitches up and headed out. On the second trip we hauled bivi gear into the flat bivi area near the route's base and climbed it that day. On the final summit ridge my partner stepped onto a 2000+ pound block that immediately started sliding. After surfing it for a foot or two he hopped off. The thing acclerated before taking a 1000' plunge to the talus (and trail!) below. But that wasn't the weird part. That afternoon we're hanging out near our camp. It's just compact dirt and heather with a few boulders strewn here and there on the top of a broad ridge Sleeping bags, bivi sacks clothing are strewn about in the sun. We're sitting about 30' away from the stuff. Again it's perfectly still, quiet, lonely. I feel the lightest brush of wind against my cheek and suddenly all that gear is floating straight up into the air. A pile coat, full sleeping bag, bivi sack are just elevated like 10 feet straight up in the air, flapping about like they're trying to fly. My buddy is running around under the bivi trying to grab it but it stayed out of reach for a good 5+ seconds before drifting back down. If it were some sort of micro gust it packed an incredible amount of energy and focus. Never felt a breeze again that day. Check out the weird face that appears on the bottom of the south arete at sunset...
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Generally speaking when belaying an ice climber I prefer to stand far away from below the climber, and have them place first piece high up, than stand close and have first piece low down. Cause helmet dont do much good when 60lb chunk of ice hits you in the shoulder, I saw it happen in Johnson Canyon once. If you are worried about getting pulled towards the climber in the event of a fall - you can always set an anchor to hold yourself down. bone I give you a B. suggest more alpine time and trad/ice to balance out your work related overconcentration on gym subjects.
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quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Anybody seen Big Lou this week? only on the sattelite photos.
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quote: Originally posted by fern: if you and I go on a trip and you forget your shovel then you get to carry mine (: does that apply to beer too?
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More possibilities 1) new avatar (I'm betting on Bug)2) since Adamson is back in town the two bros are out climbing for a week or so.3) woman got him trapped..everytime he gets out of bed she drags him back in by his b....
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so how do you stand close to the wall and not have 1) ice 2) rock and 3) climber fall on you? Bonme you have 25 minutes to reply or you fail the test!
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read the report on gadd's site http://www.gravsports.com/Ice%20Pages%20Folder/Route%20Descriptions/Conditions.htm 1) look at the nice reward offer!2) fell out of both leashes -
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quote: Originally posted by sayjay: Why this requirement?If you get up a climb clean on trad gear does it really lessen what you've done just because you protected yourself from injury/death in the process? I could understand if you were only arguing against climbs with bolts, but I don't understand why "pure climbing" only comes if you risk bad injury or death...That's just absurd. stopping climbing to clip disrupts the experience. i would add toproping to his "pure" list though. and of course the unpure climbing gets sent to the concentration camp... the dyno solution.
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http://www.bivouac.com/PhotoPg.asp?rq=Pg&PhotoId=1049
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quote: Originally posted by Recriminator: every time a climber posts something intelligent Like you just did???
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Up above Meager Hotsprings once I found some mysterious footprints (just kinda oval - no toes or nothing visible) about 12" long going between two rock patches . Then I found a weird thing - two glacial erratic boulders 8' in diameter stacked one on top of the other Later that same day I found a rock that looked exactly like a profile of Margaret Thatcher. I have slides of all this but none of them are scanned. Another time, I went to Red Rocks for the first time. supposed to meet some friends at Caesar's palace bvut we had no idea how big it was. Got parked and started heading for the casino saying "we will never find them." Just then elevator doors opened and there they were! ( we hadnt seen them for 3 days before this).
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where are the front page pix?
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i dunno about the usa but our provincial government is pro-destroy the backcountry.
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quote: Originally posted by Dru: busy climbing is destructive climbing, sport trad aid or bouldering. ever been to the gallery or up cat in the hat? salathe? outer space? diedre? hogsback saddle on baker? or to marble canyon in february?
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quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: hard issues...bouldering in general is the most destructive form of climbing-you can look at any area that has been around for a while to see the impacts to the ground. Part of that problem is because of lots of pads but it is also because of the shear numbers of people bouldering. i think that some areas can bounce back if people stoped climbing there. Ex. Sqamish boulders would overgrow pretty quickly if climbers stopped going there but in fragile areas like alpine meadows it could take 10 times as long to grow back. bouldering is here to stay-it's one of the most pure forms of climbing but it's sad that it has to be the most destructive. busy climbing is destructive climbing, sport trad aid or bouldering. ever been to the gallery or up cat in the hat? salathe? outer space? diedre? hogsback saddle on baker?
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Lets have it in Muir Hut instad of the crater. 9!!!!!!!!
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The whole Yucatan Peninsula is made out of limestone.... I saw that in a Donald Duck comic one time....
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The web-0-letteThe web-0-letteWhat does it do?It comes back to you! The only reason i went with spectra over 7mm is cuz it is about as strong but way lighter and less bulky. It was worth paying 4x as much for that.
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Hey when you hike up Snow Creek from the road, on the right hand side of the trail, after about an hour, there is a big granite face, does anyone think that has ever been climbed ?
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quote: Originally posted by glen: As far as places to go climbing near Fresno... Avoid Pinnacles Nat'l Monument. The drive is longer than getting to Yosemite and it pretty much is big pile of choss. (snip)"Fresno: the source of all irrational thought." Dude has been to Fossil he aint gonna be turned off by Pinnacles. i say, either kwit climbing or getcha self a new girlfriend. either way you solve your problem. cause there is nothing worse than a clueless belayer, except a clueless leader trying to teach his belayer how to belay from halfway up the climb.
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how long does it take to hike in? cause i really cant see that pad people are actually gonna hike in an hour or two to boulder carrying all that foam. i wont walk more than 15 minutes to boulder, but i will boulder in basecamp while alpine climbing as long as im falling on my partners' thermarests and not my own one.
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join Scientology they are big on mind control. except it is THEM controlling your mind not you controlling your own mind.
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two computers huh? does juan valdez know you are two-timing him?
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Dude endless surveys. 1a 2d 3f 4b 5f 6c 7a M 7b 29.