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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. that ice looks good n fat, too bad it isn't like 6 pitches long eh?
  2. quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: And, the Urisotes put up alot of those routes in the first place, so the info as far as crack sizes, etc should be on the money. yeah, just about every route says "bring a 5 or 6 inch piece". or "this good crack, protected by 6 bolts"
  3. quote: Originally posted by roger johnson: Officespacey, Where did you come up with 5.8d? That sounds like sport talk. Canary was done by Becky, Collins and Claunch in the 50s, pre sub catagories. Becky rates it 5.7. The first pitch is steep but has sharp holds and edges- 5.7. The second pitch starts with an exposed step down with good hands and then goes around the corner to a less steep face with rounded knobs, edges and scoops. Protected by bolts it goes at 5.7. It probably feels more difficult because the bolts are not every two feet. I have done Canary many times and it is always fun and seems consistant with Lworth ratings. 5.7 The FFA of Canary was made by Canadian, Hank Mather. That guy (who is still alive) is like the all-time secret hardman of the 50's and 60's.
  4. in the Vogel guidebook, a lot of good routes don't have stars. some routes without stars are as good as routes that he gives two or three stars. so don't be afraid of doing no-star climbs. in red rocks, get ahold of the urioste guide if planning to do long routes, it is a good supplement to the swain book, especially for areas like windy peak, although out of date, it has better pictures and approach beta.
  5. quote: Originally posted by glen: Sidenote: Active volcano is a rather subjective term. If you consider activeity the likelyhood of eruption in the next 500 years, or the presence of fumaroles on the edifice, there are plenty of active volcanoes in Kamchatka that are active, anod some of them are taller than their south american brothers. (In fact, Kamchatka is the most volcanically active place on earth, geologically speaking). Of course, there are virtually no trails or reasonable forms of support for getting to those Kamchatkan volcanoes, so I doubt they are getting many ascents (even by TNF). In reality, if you are climbing to get a 'highest peak' and tell people about it, you are probably climbing for the wrong reasons. Heck, it is an equally valid criterion to say,"I'm going to climb Rainier because it's the closest volcano to Tacoma" But I digress... Actually there is quite a Kamcatkan mountaineering community. There was even a Pat Morrow article in National Geographic about it. Those guys climb and ski those peaks a lot. Westerners can hire cheap helicopter and local logistical support and there are excellent hot springs. Kamchatka is "the Alaska of Russia" except it is a bit warmer due to the Japanese Current, or so I'm told.
  6. Dru

    freshies

    quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: Well, I am 40 floors up so.... those are high cielings you got in dat building!
  7. first pitch felt hard for 5.8, second pitch right on 5.8, agree you gotta traverse low around to the left notgo straight up. all said it was not harder than the 5.8 south ridge of gimli and about the same as minutia (aka orphan) or worlds toughest milkman (both now given 5.9 in the McLane Soft Squamish Grading System )
  8. Dru

    freshies

    quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: Freshiez in Seattle right now! freshie line in chilliwack looks like about 400m.
  9. quote: Originally posted by Fairweather: When it comes to "mass" which is the biggest? I've read Mount Logan, and Mauna Loa on the Big Island. Any info? Or does this just boil down to words chosen? Also, which cascade volcano has the most "mass"? Rainier, Adams, or Shasta? Sounds like there are some here who would know...I don't. mass - world, mauna loa.above sea level, logancascade volcano, no idea. rainier? which one has the largest circumference? cause considered as a cone, vol=1/3x pi X radius squared X height. so it could be adams, if it is wider around the base.
  10. quote: Originally posted by joekania: I read and was told by a geology professor that Denali is the most rapid rising land mass from sea level, ie, the steepest angle from summit to nearest ocean surface. Dude there are vertical 5000 foot cliffs up the fjords of BC and Greenland... thats a hell of a lot steeper than a 10 or 20 degree shot from Denali to tidewater or something. Clue in. I was told by Squamish tourism bureau that the Chief is the 2nd largest granite monolith in the world (when I was a kid in the 70's, they just said in the Commonwealth, and that #1 was Rock of Gibraltar) - just cause someone tells you something doesnt mean its true
  11. Dru

    HELP. Please.

    single glove = michael jackson
  12. quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Pickles? Who the hell puts pickles on a cone? pregnant women... No go on the ho-flo yo. europeanhuman being on the sceneelectronic eroticdown with the leafy greenseeing aliensaliens
  13. good work will. too bad about res arete. how were the temps? cold or ok? did you manage to find some mota down there, or should i say 'dank mc nuggets' find any booty? everytime i go to RR i seem to score a new rope or cam or something. lots of people getting in over their head and backing off i guess.
  14. and you have to suck up to jon and timmy to get your username changed -like 'bone had to do to get his capital L.
  15. methinks verticaldrifter cant spell. anuther one of uss.
  16. quote: Originally posted by KeithKSchultz: Dear boys and girls from Never Never Land. The boogie man does exist. He will destroy Castleton Tower if there is a profit involved. If you think you are going to stop the boogieman by holding bake sales and gathering a bunch of hippies on the street yelling reeeeeaaaaaallyy cool slogans then you are a dumbshit and Castlteton tower is doomed.It will be by political force that Castleton tower is saved. In other words, money talks. If everyone who has posted on this site were every ecohippie in the world then what percentage of ecohippies vote? Send letters to Congress? Are politically active in any piddlyass way? My guess is that it is a pretty pathetic percentage. Without the money eco groups get from dastardly corporations like North Face and Patagonia, the public who actually vote and actually get involved in political movements would probably never hear about the political movements in the first place.Pop quiz: Who represents you in congress? (Hint; Senator xxx, Congress person xxx). To that I say... if you think politix will work better than a bake sale, i hope you got more $$$ than the oilpatch lobby. only one thing will work and that is REVOLUTION!!! "The act of desctruction is also a creative act" - Mikhail Bakunin.
  17. have fun with the frostbite goin' for first sex on vinson massif.
  18. take a #3 and #4 camalot up every route since if you don't place it on the route, you will place it for the anchor!! expect to build gear anchors even on top of 'sport' routes and remember: TAPE IS AID!!
  19. Dru

    freshies

    using my advance japanese reading skills i deduce that this one is saying "Freshiez!!!"
  20. Dru

    freshies

    oooh yeah!!! i like it!
  21. it was even stranger before erik edited it!
  22. Dru

    freshies

    we need one of these saying "freshies" instead.
  23. i got a capital and youse guys don't trask -opportunity dressed in overalls? i thought that was your mom.
  24. I saw on rockandice.com that they are gonna let climbers bivvy on/at base of routes at RR now, so no more 'run for the carpark at sundown', maybe.
  25. Dru

    freshies

    i know some people hate this word so i just wanted to make it a topic and get it into their attention again
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