Dru

quote: Originally posted by Alex: I would suggest the following rules of thumb: Ablation zone of the glacier? rope not needed. All other situiations. Rope needed. Of course a rope does not substitute for knowing what the fuck you are doing with it, but that can be said about any aspect of roped climbing Examples: corn snow? rope neededno visible crevasses? rope neededspring/early summer in the cascades on a glacier? rope needed Have I followed this rule of thumb always? No. But I was gambling with my life. Will I always follow this rule of thumb? I am prone to following it alot more since I got a stern talking-to by a climbing partner who I respect greatly, after saying something like "its corn snow, no visible crevasses, blah, blah, blah" The truth is YOU NEVER KNOW unless you are on ablation zone. Do you REALLY want to be known as the idiot who died unroped on Sulphide Glacier? Alex [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: Alex ] John Clarke spent 30m years doing month-long solo traverses through the Coast Range, mostly on glaciers and ridges... he only ever punched through one crevasse and that was while setting up his tent like TG says, knowing how to read the snow is the biggie. soloing on a glacier is like soloing on easy rock, in terms of failure consequences. it may be dangerous but it sure is fun and lots of people do it...my advice to anyone wanting to try, is, 1) get some experience travelling with a rope on2) make up your own mind not dissing anyone for always roping up and hopefully no disrespect for my choice not to.

This is south face of Viennese from a helicopter as of yesterday. Dont think that ice streak has been climbed either. I was puking while shooting so photo is a little poorly focussed cause 1 hand was holding the barf bag.

Sit starts are only cool if you have arm strength. I call that cheating

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: I'm suffering from post-valentines day trauma- did you know that 1/2 dozen roses costs the same as a cam? Did you know that for that much money you could buy three bottles of wine, and they're more effective?

i wanna use pineyK's rocket launcher on some shit! like maybe on some glued on holds at deception cragz! lets make it a summit meeting on chilliwack river trail - i will hike in from BC with the pack full of greens.

i rope up when necessary, probably about 75% of the time on glaciers. in spring/early summer it really isnt necessary. i descended the whole fisher chimneys route from summit in july once without roping up. following a beaten trail with no punch throughs.

will they let me across the border?

quote: Originally posted by jordop: A certain well-known executive of an alpine club that I climb with occaisionally carries, and wears at the same time, Gore pants and jacket, a rain poncho, and a pack cover. The man also takes a full spice kit wherever he goes! The danger words here are ...executive.. and ...alpine club... The only "club" worth a damn is the KTK. The rest {the ones wid Executives and so on} you should run not walk from.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I soloed that naked 2 months ago That's your woodie they are dry tooling

quote: Originally posted by CleeshterFeeshter: Erik,I admit I have been disturbed this winter. Only been out on the ice 2x. Banks apparently has not formed and was planning on that trip to balance the industrial angst. Tired of the Utah Ice. Gotta drive from Boyzee to get anywhere but here. Send me the frapp coupon and I will drink the caffeine laden elixir of productivity. The following a a real and true "no shit" conspiracy story that ties in Bush Sr- me-and this forum.I attended USMA (West Point 89) and dated this nice looking blond girl in 1986. She lived in Tarryton,NY and worked at the Marriott Hotel in White Plains,NY. White Plains is the home of many large Corps (IBM,Xerox, etc). Anyway, this is a nice Marriott with a very upscale restaurant inside. VP Bush and Haig were staying there for a publican fundraiser.VP Bush is drunk off his ass trying to get my then 21 yr old girlfriend up to his VP suite. He spent 2 hours trying to get her up there and then sent the SS down to work her. She was fortunately smarter, younger, and much better looking than Paula Jones and Monica. The Bushes make JFK look like amatuer night. Its a good think chokers werren't fashionable in 1986

How thick was the smoke in the Hut?

"The act of destruction is also a creative act." - Mikhail Bakunin.

Vege I hope you are collercting your cc.com guide's fee from Mr. Parker some of us worked hard to make sure these secret methods of inserting quotes and images remain secret....

Bullets or ballots? What about Ballets or Ballnutz?

quote: Originally posted by JayB: No shit --- still there eh? Last time I ran into him at the UW wall he was regaling some climber visiting from South Africa with tales of the connections between Steve Largent, the CIA, and the Cali Cartel or something. Yipes! Sounds like Cleeshtefeeshter?

The Valley is only good in the spring thru fall. Surprisingly, that's also the best time for Coast Mtns alpine climbing I never been to the Valley yet. No ripoffs, no bears in da car, no crowded lines, no rangers wit attitude, no overpriced deli, no poser scene, no shit bags flying down and smacking you onna head. Man I guess I have to hit the Ditch sometime I seem to be missing out on a LOT!

With the tails, you can shrink the shoe down for putting in your pack for those routes where you climb up a face and then plod off down the other side of the mountain, and still have some flotation in soft conditions. There is currently a recall out on MSR Denali Ascents and regular Denalis made from Sept-Nov 2001 due to some breakage problems so check the date stamp when you buy 'em. I found i was going faster on my Denalis than GR was on his tele skis this weekend approaching Nepopekum...but Serl forgot his skins and post holed and beat us both back to the car!

The Rockies much admired classic has been climbed. http://www.gravsports.com/Ice%20Pages%20Folder/Route%20Descriptions/Caveman%20Direct.htm Note use of new grading system too: Also how long is it gonna be before someone here uses Cassius Spray as an avatar name?

How deep is the snowpack? Winter/spring snow is often so deep the crevasses are something its not worth worrying about.The small ones get filled in and the big ones bridge over with a 9 foot thick bridge. From about March thru early June the rope is OFTEN (but not always) dead weight in your pack. Also, in winter, the glaciers at lower elevations do not advance as rapidly (colder), so crevasses tend to close up some, and get narrower. Then they widen up in summer.* * I just know some real glaciologist type like fern is gonna challenge me on this one so I confess in advance I probably made this "fact" up. It sure sounds plausible though!

Buddy at J-Tree is belaying his girlfriend on a 5.7. Girlfriend gets to one point, reaches up to a jug, pulls up and locks, then SCREAMS! Climbs rally fasdt but wont say what is wrong. So the guy is seconding and gets to the same jug. Pulls up, locks off, peeks over lip of jug and there is his hand with a tarantula the same size as his hand investigating it to see if it is FOOD or MATE? [ 02-14-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

you will lnotice that the 'mystery peak' was called 'whatpeakisit.jpg' for just that very reason!

if you like larrabee (and i only went there once, it's so SMALL!) get a boat and head out to Tumbo Island off the coiast of Saturna Island in the Guilf Islands of BC. Exactly same rock formation... 4 mile long traverse on vertical to overhanging huecos all the way around the island. For trask-types there's feral sheep too. My dad used to drop my brother and me off there while he went fishing and we would boulder along with our life jackets on so that when we fell in we could float over to a spot where you could actually climb out. Those Brits and their deep water soloing...I didnt see any of them there in 1978!

rollins has tattoos!

quote: Originally posted by dberdinka: I still beat you Jordo. Hah! I win! What do I get for my troubles Drul? A free guided bushwack up something I (and no one else)have ever heard of? An oppurtunity to belay you on a mossy pitch of Culbert low-5th shi(s)t? Some of Canada's finest herbal remedies? Keep the obscure peak photos coming, maybe I can dredge up some of my own. Peace Any or all of the above... off to fly around some nice peaks in a helicopter now.