From Anders Ourom:
Lower Malemute Voluntary Closure - Update Hello everyone! With the approach of spring, inquiries are rising steadily about the status of climbing at the lower Malemute. We have been working hard on this, but there is no definite solution as yet.
Last autumn we prepared an accurate survey plan of the lower Malemute, locating the climbs and their distance from the tracks, and showing how the cliff might be zoned by use and safety. That plan, and a written preliminary proposal, were sent to B.C. Rail in December. On February 18th, John Howe, Neil Bennett and Kevin McLane travelled with several senior B.C. Rail managers on the train from North Vancouver to Squamish. This included an engineer’s view from the driver’s seat of the train, passing by the Malemute at around 70km/hr. This was followed by a meeting at the B.C. Rail office in Squamish. The outcome was positive, although much work needs to be done.
As a result of the meeting, and at B.C. Rail's request, we agreed to prepare a detailed written plan. This will outline the issues from the climbers' perspective, and provide background on the cliff and climbs, and their national and international significance. It will also detail the access options, how the Malemute could be zoned for risk management, and offer strategies for a solution. We expect to submit these to B.C. Rail by 1st March.
For now, the entire Lower Malemute remains under a voluntary closure. (The Upper Malemute is open.) It is very likely that a solution will involve permanent closure of some climbs in the Penguins in Bondage area, some fencing, signage, and new access routes. B.C. Rail recognizes the high cost of fencing the entire length of the cliff, and maintenance. It cannot pay for that, but appears willing to consider solutions requiring partial fencing only. It might also be able to help in kind. However, a substantial fund-raising campaign seems likely once we know exactly what we're raising money for. We may need a substantial amount of money, and are preparing a fund-raising/membership strategy.
We will send further information by broadcast e-mail, and through Access News, as it becomes available. It should also appear on CASBC's website (www.bivouac.com/casbc). With the approach of spring, we know that time is growing short! In the meantime, we ask that climbers continue to refrain from climbing at the Lower Malemute, and thank you all for your co-operation and restraint to date.
All climbers should keep in mind that B.C. Rail has the authority to close most of the climbs adjacent to the tracks, and all existing foot approaches, but has chosen instead to discuss the issues to see if a positive solution can be found. In this regard, we wish to extend our special thanks to Tom Winters, Operations Manager, and Andy Thom, BC Rail Police.
John Howe (Squamish Rockclimbers Association; jchfor@mountain-inter.net)
Kevin McLane (Squamish Rockclimbers Association, guidebook writer; stone@elaho.ca)
Neil Bennett (Climbers’ Access Society of B.C.; bennett@axion.net)
Anders Ourom (Climbers’ Access Society of B.C.; aiourom@telus.net or 604-228-1798)
ps We are very sorry to report that Brent Mathieson, who had been working with us on this matter, died in a car accident on 24th January. Brent was a guide and a popular member of the Squamish outdoors community. He was also master of ceremonies at the Squamish Rockclimbers' Festival in July 2001
