Dru

its hard to find a partner now for august cause nobody wants to commit in case the weather is jingus. try posting again a week before you trip.

Izzat entertainment or service industry, i guess it depends if you are producer or consumer?

quote: Originally posted by todd: you only need two days to do it. enjoy! wedge and weart have been linked up 12 hrs round trip from the parking lot. do it as a day trip... but leave at midnight for best snow conditions and then you can go into whistler and laff at the tourists in the afternoon. i like to sit down in whistler streets with my alpine scum on and my helmet put out in front of me and see how much spare change i can get.

quote: Originally posted by jon: Yeah what he said! GRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!! I'm a pony, a pony, um um.....I mean a TIGER GRRRRRRRRRRR!! Take a poop in a bag and light it on fire on your portch. Thats right I called the shit poop. I laff!!!!! jon iz funny sumtimes.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: That's Summit Chief Mountain. I don't think that buttress is in the old Brown Beckey. I haven't bought the new Brown yet. We walked underneath that thing going to Chimney Rock a few years back. It looked impressive but there was a very big red (=rotten?) talus cone at the base. Here's picture of it this winter I found on tom unger's page. I'm just posting a link since the picture is big! http://www.tumtum.com/gallery/images/skiing/BigSnow02/BigSnow02_42.jpgSummit Chief is just right and above Glide's head. That buttress is probably right in the middle of the face from this angle. I will tick it off right after me and Erik do our long overdue "Bare Breasts on Bears Breast" expedition. Potential sponsors and breast barers welcome. Erik will send you an application form if you send him a pm.

GU is not merely Extreme. GU is FUEL FOR LIVING ON THE EDGE. Damn I should switch careers and go to work for the ad industry!

quote: Originally posted by hikerwa: t...w...e....n...t...y!!! 24

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I'm a mountaineer but not a Mountaineer Beckey was a Boy Scout too. And one time, at band camp... Oh wait, I changed my mind. I'm an ALPINIST now. Just like Mark Twight. Except Im not XTREEEEEM!

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Fred Beckey is\was a mountaineer so shut up I'm a mountaineer but not a Mountaineer Beckey was a Boy Scout too. And one time, at band camp...

19. page 39 in 6 more posts! who will take the coveted slot?

Smith, me likey. Erik bring vegetative goodies. pineyK allison anna good to meet you. V i didnt realize that was you. Memo to cc.commers use your online name as well when introducing! Did sum nice long routes. Marsupial Traverse and Wherever I may Roam on the same day was fun. Like the Tikka for security when topping out at sunset. Like them Gorge cracks. Basalt is fun and it is nice not having endless loose death blocks disguised as holds like at Chossmans Coollee. Alistair sent many rrrrrrroutes and raved about it and ran around like a headless chicken on speed cuz it was his only visit to Smith ever, he is going back to Scotland in June. PS he is looking for a Valley partner for all of May if anyone is interested. We drove back via 97 to 90 to 5. Nice views of Stuart area heard Ray and veggie had fun up there. Also checked out Issaquampton and Ellenzberg and similar places. And saw famous Mt. Si. Is there really only one route on all those big rock walls there? [ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

Czech Direct, don't you mean Slovak Route?

quote: Originally posted by chucK: LB Chief, Summit Chief, Chimney Rock, Overcoat [ 04-02-2002: Message edited by: chucK ] What is the buttress in the center of the picture like? Looks like a fun route. I dont have my brown Beckey memorized yet.

To add to Don's post, here is a comparison of some Euro and USA routes graded with Euro grades. I stole this from an article KM is gonna have in the 2002 CAJ... EuropeEiger, 1938 Route ED1/2Mont Blanc, Central Pillar Freney ED1Grandes Jorasses, Walker Spur ED1Les Droites, Northeast Spur TD+Mont Blanc, Red Sentinel D+Aiguille du Midi, Frendo Spur D+Tour Ronde, North Face DMatterhorn, Hornli Ridge AD+Les Courtes, Cordier Route ADMont Blanc, Standard route PD+ United StatesBear Mt, North Face 1967 TDGrand Teton, North Face D+Pingora, Northeast Face D+Mt Stuart, North Ridge Complete D+Nooksack Tower, Beckey-Schmidtke D+Grand Teton, Complete Exum Ridge DGrand Teton, Black Ice Couloir DMt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge DShuksan, Price Glacier DMt Whitney, East Buttress D-Mt. Redoubt, Northeast Face AD+Mt. Baker, North Ridge ADMt Whitney, East Face ADForbidden Peak, West Ridge ADPingora, South Buttress ADMt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys AD-Mt. Rainier, Standard Route PD+

Conditions are best in July and August for ice. Dont climb under cornices, and earlier season makes for easier schrund crossings. Take a few pickets and screws. Most of them are pretty soloable,depending on your headspace. North ridge makes a good descent.

There are many more unclimbed crags than you can possibly shake a stick at. There are rad unclimbed walls and splitter cracks 15 minutes drive from my house (just a little bit mossy ). But since they arent at Squamish there is no scene and no one would repeat any lines that got put up. Maybe if I write a Fraser Valley guidebook...

erik on crack you dont have to lift your legs as much so carhartts is OK. on face you must do gay fairy things like Egyptians and double-sukaharas that require much more leg flexibility so spandex work better than carhartts except when kneebarring off a tufa on a big roof. but roofs are a whole other subject than face climbing.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Fine work Dru! Now lets see you do something with Vegetablebelay,Matt Anderson,CleeshterFeeshter, and Offwidthclimber Vegetablebelay = get a beav a belly.Matt Anderson = snotmeat randCleeshterfeeshter = there felches steeroffwidthclimber= brewchild of tim f

quote: Originally posted by midwestern alpine hero: Okay the comments are helpful, Rainier fetish or penis envy, its a place that is easy organise a trip to as there are tonnes of books about it, its close to Seattle, forums like this provide great info etc. and in the end its a big one alright. Coming all the way from Chicago it would be hard to head to some little known climbing area without wasting valuable holiday time wandering around trying to find a place to park! So send out the suggestions for other places that would provide good fun for a beginner, some cascade climbs would be cool also, I get the impression that Rainier is a long slog up snow, in france they have long, easy (french 4 and 5) mountain rock routes, any suggestions (up to 5.6 trad or 5.7 bolted) in the region? Which guide books would be best for me? Get the Nelson-Potterfield Cascade Classics guidebooks (Vol 1 and 2), there are loads of long easy alpine routes though not bolted ones You might want to consider the Liberty Bell area, easy access (1 hr hike from road)and lotsa moderates in the 5.4-5.8 range. French 5 is up to 5.9 though, not 5.7.

quote: Originally posted by trask: Now goddamnit Dru, can't you just take it for the gibberish it is without analyzing it to death? j;dkfhlz s9 908=0 w89a=a9w8 j[ps98a ]49 opjkf9pe i=0 9e8 =9asdig =ifg'opsdg8 09rg e9ig 0eirg 0i]g8f]h9u]x0-\ =9\s=e-9 \at\g=9g-\h-nogj-= =s-09 0h=9\ x=-f9\hg plxf] dfk ' gdpri higro tr-0siy pojr[tph9 s ]etr-0 09i e]r-g8 ofdj;ig's;jrgser gs g[s-er[s0eitr [s o s-5ot s]0 ryosk'd0fhg siig sidf]f-g skdr'gsig ;jxchbpoc'/nke0t0ws]4 t dh[itoh dpoh [ d[pi h sdojtsR s'r0i t'[i a'erpi '[er0i'0ierb ;snfb'zdjvmojvma 'apejrg povj 'djv'fj v' 'podsi 'podisfgjdjgr[ bixhtg pdrogj '[pdfjg pdfui ]psojsh pdf 'opdi ]gifpig ]s0di f fdig ]dpsofig h [dpfi h[ostyh[0jg r09izg;dilfgpduhbgf;bpj s;df j rfoosdodof ka 'sdo;gkdfgk ofkgodfigl;k' 'sd;fkg'sa;dkfga'dk f'k kgh odhgpok dfgoh [dfpkg ohk]n,]perk pw9e[apweuihriop dfkmb[dbk ' spdrkg psdfg sdf';sjg 'sfd;k 'gs;dkf'g;k' ';lgf 'gk ' ddkg o;sdf'g;j 'sdfojkg'sdflknla s;ldkf ';sdopasfm a'sof asd po ds[p GOD DAMN IT WHERE IS THE SHAKESPEARE??????

Dude you made the details inconsistent when you changed the names and places like that.

you will get more partners if you broaden your horizons beyond volcanoes....

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Yeah, so whadya want, a fuckin cookie? Whats in the cookie????

Dude, cant you tell that is a male goat????

I did a search on haiku on this website and after 1/2 hour it still wasn't finished searching.