Retrosaurus

quote: Originally posted by max: But I sure as hell don't want some bull-headed, self rightous grumpy-pants deciding what gets pulled (no names mentioned!) That's me, of course. And I don't want to be deciding how much is too much either. But, if no one else does, then I will.

Crackhead, sounds like you and I should go climbing. Fuck the rope.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Hee hee I am going to drill this weekend. BRRM BRRM BRRM!!! Leave your sister alone, Dru.

quote: Originally posted by HeadSpace: hey, buy my drill and get in on the action! Bolt The Planet!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Your drill could be useful. There are plenty of retro-jobs where old quarter-inch bolts have not just been upgraded, but the protection completely rearranged.

quote: Originally posted by TimL: Great another topic on bolting. Thanks for adding fuel to the fire Pope. Pope and Mitch - you guys suck. Maybe Retro, Pope and Bill Robbins can get together and have a crow bar 3 way. Make that a 5-way. You and Slap can trade off as pivot man. quote: Retro - Correct me if I'm wrong, but you've sunk several bolts into Leavenworth rock. JY crag ring a bell?The route is called New Frustrations, 1991 with John Eminger, owner operator of 49 Degrees North (not Jim Erninger, as it says in the guide book). A compelling natural line right up the center of the crag. If you can suggest another way to protect the initial slab, I would like to know about it. I thought that one of the two "bolts" was a pin. But I'm probably wrong; guidebooks are always right. Don't let your rope follow into the crack after you pull over the roof. You may become frustrated or desperate. Have you done the route, or are you just full of shit. quote: Retro - Who the fuck made YOU the moral conscience of Leavenworth climbing? From your spray, its seems like you've done more to take away from Leavenworth climbing then top add to it. I see nothing positive about your statements.Right now, Leavenworth climbing has no moral conscience. I am suggesting that one be developed. From your comments I can only conclude that your reasoning only goes as far as " more bolts are better" or "it is ok for anyone do drill anywhere". You are welcome to add your opinions toward the development of a "conscience", especially if it goes further than "you suck". quote: I've never been an advocate of bolting natural lines. With all this talk of "restoration" I see a witch hunt attitude being taken that can only be a hindrance.So, what do you suggest be done about bolting of natural lines, nothing? Speak up, You're probably not as ignorant as you sound.

Sounds like without the bolts you must accept the risks inherent in climing but with them it may be reduced to the risks inherent in tennis.

The first sissified creation that I want to eradicate is Slaphappy.

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: Mitch, will I get a substantial dividend after this transaction? What is the return policy? Are we talking post 11th grade shape, or post frat party condition here? Let's just say, if some of the pages in your Beckey guide are stuck together, it's probably a fair trade.

quote: Originally posted by specialed: Rachel Babkirk smokes crack!!??? Hell yes. It was smoking for two hours afterwards. But Ray put out the fire. Dumbass wouldn't stop talking bout Britney Spears.

And I thought that climbing was fun. Now that I know all these fun tricks, anyone want to go climbin'?

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: I don't mean you shouldn't have information and knowledge, but there comes a time when you have to stop thinking and just say duh. Duh Ganga works; sometimes a little too well.

That can be a bit embarassing in public. Especially if yo wearin' lycra.

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: I've got an old torn Beckey book I will trade for Rachel Babkirk... Mike, I've got a very damp, heavily used Rachel Babkirk that I'll trade. She's probably substantially more tore up than your Beckey book though.

Trask, thanks for keeping us up on the latest bunghole news. You are cc's bunghole of the month. Er, year? Of all-time, yeah.

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: I'm sorry, but aren't there two b's in pubbing? The way you have it spelled makes it sound like..... ... maybe you were pubbing in a pubic place instead of a public one.

If you can catch the route with the crux bands well iced, climbing the route with AT boots would not be a big deal. But with skiis on your back? Well, I would not do it. The descent is a straight forward walk off and trivial compared to the climb. I feel you would be screwing up the climb for a few turns. But hey, if that's what you're into... Bonus question: Definitely two ropes, preferrably twin or doubles. And belay both seconds at the same time.

Shut up. Put your brain in your pocket. Climb!

quote: Originally posted by avypoodle: ... Nirvana Ridge. That second pitch is classic Peeshastin, who did it before the retrobolt, and how scary was it? Nirvana Ridge was my first lead ever back in maybe 81? I was real concerned, but not ready to back down.

Trazodone has that risk. Sorry, I hear it is as painful for the sufferer as it is pleasureable for the partner.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Wallstein: ... Weirdest thing though, there are bolts next to the crack. ... After doing the crack with good pro i still didn't see the need for the bolts. ... Anybody have any info on these routes? Choppity chop chop? Where is Retrosaurus and Strickland and the 3 foot long love? That's all the info I need. BTW the 3foot long love has been upgraded to 5 1/2 feet.

quote: Originally posted by beefcider: I've heard that using webbing and the water knot doesn't produce very reliable results and should only be used in a pinch. Now I'm nervous about the reliability of tying in to my harness. Maybe I should get my harness sewn on to the end of the rope.

quote: Originally posted by specialed: ... But if thats all you use - you're way old school! And if you think that's an issue then get back on the short bus.

Shit Mikey! Use your own judgement or go ask your mom and quit bothering us important alpinists. Only you know what you will be subjecting your pants to. On evaluating your level of confidence in your own judgement I suggest something stain resistant.

quote: Originally posted by erik: i dunno retro you might like it... You're probably right. Now that I think of it, the worst I ever had was still pretty damned good. But would they share?

Yeah. And keep him away from my sausage too.