Retrosaurus

Sounds like without the bolts you must accept the risks inherent in climing but with them it may be reduced to the risks inherent in tennis.

The first sissified creation that I want to eradicate is Slaphappy.

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: Mitch, will I get a substantial dividend after this transaction? What is the return policy? Are we talking post 11th grade shape, or post frat party condition here? Let's just say, if some of the pages in your Beckey guide are stuck together, it's probably a fair trade.

quote: Originally posted by specialed: Rachel Babkirk smokes crack!!??? Hell yes. It was smoking for two hours afterwards. But Ray put out the fire. Dumbass wouldn't stop talking bout Britney Spears.

And I thought that climbing was fun. Now that I know all these fun tricks, anyone want to go climbin'?

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: I don't mean you shouldn't have information and knowledge, but there comes a time when you have to stop thinking and just say duh. Duh Ganga works; sometimes a little too well.

That can be a bit embarassing in public. Especially if yo wearin' lycra.

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: I've got an old torn Beckey book I will trade for Rachel Babkirk... Mike, I've got a very damp, heavily used Rachel Babkirk that I'll trade. She's probably substantially more tore up than your Beckey book though.

Trask, thanks for keeping us up on the latest bunghole news. You are cc's bunghole of the month. Er, year? Of all-time, yeah.

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: I'm sorry, but aren't there two b's in pubbing? The way you have it spelled makes it sound like..... ... maybe you were pubbing in a pubic place instead of a public one.

If you can catch the route with the crux bands well iced, climbing the route with AT boots would not be a big deal. But with skiis on your back? Well, I would not do it. The descent is a straight forward walk off and trivial compared to the climb. I feel you would be screwing up the climb for a few turns. But hey, if that's what you're into... Bonus question: Definitely two ropes, preferrably twin or doubles. And belay both seconds at the same time.

Shut up. Put your brain in your pocket. Climb!

quote: Originally posted by avypoodle: ... Nirvana Ridge. That second pitch is classic Peeshastin, who did it before the retrobolt, and how scary was it? Nirvana Ridge was my first lead ever back in maybe 81? I was real concerned, but not ready to back down.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Wallstein: ... Weirdest thing though, there are bolts next to the crack. ... After doing the crack with good pro i still didn't see the need for the bolts. ... Anybody have any info on these routes? Choppity chop chop? Where is Retrosaurus and Strickland and the 3 foot long love? That's all the info I need. BTW the 3foot long love has been upgraded to 5 1/2 feet.

quote: Originally posted by beefcider: I've heard that using webbing and the water knot doesn't produce very reliable results and should only be used in a pinch. Now I'm nervous about the reliability of tying in to my harness. Maybe I should get my harness sewn on to the end of the rope.

quote: Originally posted by specialed: ... But if thats all you use - you're way old school! And if you think that's an issue then get back on the short bus.

Shit Mikey! Use your own judgement or go ask your mom and quit bothering us important alpinists. Only you know what you will be subjecting your pants to. On evaluating your level of confidence in your own judgement I suggest something stain resistant.

quote: Originally posted by erik: i dunno retro you might like it... You're probably right. Now that I think of it, the worst I ever had was still pretty damned good. But would they share?

Yeah. And keep him away from my sausage too.

A 4500 ci haul bag could never hold enough malted beverages for summer climbing. And what about the ice? For Christ's sakes get a grip. What are you guys thinking about?

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: The Sausage King Keep your mouth away from my sausage Borbon.

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: ...Passing someone without their consent isn't really possible on Crimson Chrysalis. Bullshit. Six years ago my pregnant wife and I passed a party of three on the crux of Outerspace. We did not even ask. All we said was "Hi" as we climbed through. Did not need to clip their pro. Any one bumbling along that slowly I would not trust their gear anyway. Erik is right on. Climbing courtesy extends only so far. I am not going to get benighted because of some goober. On a trip to the Bugs my partner and I climbed that ultracool classic ridge on Bugaboo Spire. We got the early start from the hut but then screwed up the approach and ended up on 5th class talus. Scrambling to recover our place at the head of the pack. We ended up at the base with three other parties on the route ahead of us and another from New York at the base. The Yorkies, seeing that we were rushing, says "You might as well take your time and enjoy the route. There are several parties ahead of us too." We hurriedly roped up and simul-climbed eight pitches, catching the last party just below the summit and deciding to follow them because they had climbed the (descent route) Kain Route the day before. (I hate stressing about descents.) We were back in the hut eating dinner at 5pm. The next day the New Yorkers found us and apologized to us!. "Man, you were right. We got back at 3am."

Of course you can. Tell us how well the knot holds. If we don't hear from you within two months, I will contact you with my ouiji board.

quote: Originally posted by Recriminator: (1)your the only one doing the regulateing, you crag police or what?? (2)Hey sunshine wall is a climbing area, it can be crowded but it's cool, (3)except when a bolt chop'in, hanger remove'in, noze in the air asshole shows up bitch'in about bolted routes. (4)That would be mitch the bitch better known as retro-ball-less KISS IT (1)Do you have your parking permit?Do you camp only where you are told you can?You don't drive on the dirt roads in the coulees?Do you build fires?Do you restrain your bowels until you can get to the lone, trashed, portable toilet?Do you read the bulletin board to keep abreast of the latest regulations du jour?Do you follow the recommendations of the Frenchman Coulee Climber's Coalition? The Coulee has enough "Crag Police" without me. (2)Sunshine Wall was cool when:*it was not crowded,*there was not a trail,*the only guide book was verbal history passed from climber to climber,*all routes ended at the top,*you could clear the loose rock from a new route without whining from gym climbers 100 yards away because they were scared when they heard rockfall,*bolts were not placed within arms reach of a protectable crack,*you could not clip three bolds from one stance,*you could turn over a rock without finding a papered pile of human excrement,*you could build a fire at the base of a route to warm your hands on a cold winter day. Sunshine Wall is a shadow of what it was. If it is still cool because it is OK to be crowded because "it's a climbing area" then,so is Vertical World;and they have flush toilets.Recriminator has obviously been desensitized by too much time in that festering shithole of humanity on the wet side of the state. (3)I chopped half of the bolts on one route there. They grew back bigger. I hammered the hangers flat. A sport climber bent them back and they are still clipping the same hangers like the true lemmings that most of them are. I gave up on that cause. I shouldn't have. At that time it could possibly have made a difference. I have never stolen hangers. I installed two of the chain rappel anchors that were stolen, the one just right of "Party In Your Pants" and the one three cracks right of "Boschido". I prefer to make my statements by the routes I establish and the style in which I climb. (4)retro-ball-less?Recriminator, people that know me know better. Why don't you step out from behind your avatar and put your record up beside mine. (5)Thanks guys. MaxSzy...Kevin

I know a guy who has often top-roped solo by rigging an ascender wall-hauler style at the top of the cliff with the climbing end of the rope counter-balanced so that the counter-weight pulls the climbing rope up and through the ascender as he climbs. His system seems somewhat safer than wearing the ascender. He's still alive.