goatboy

I love that place. Almost died in a lightning storm there back in 1997.... but the rock the really great and very cool historical climbing area too... I recognize Flower of High Rank and The Traitor Horn -- did you climb The Open Book or Whodunnit?

Take a look in ANAM at the Tahquitz double fatality where a cordelette caused sequential failure of a three point anchor because it did not equalize the three pieces. Sliding X's or an equalette would not have failed, as simulated replications of the accident using the same gear that failed in the same placements and test weights showed Rhetorical question: Would you say that this was an appropriate time and situation in which to use the cordellete? Projected answer: Clearly not. So, does mis-use of a cordellette disqualify it from being a good tool to use in other situations?

Another way of asking this question: How many people who are currently making the cordelette their standard default anchor are familiar and competent using slings and/or the rope itself as anchor points, but are CHOOSING to use the cordellette because they think it's quicker and more effective? And, flip-side, how many people who are currently using the slings and/or rope as their default anchor are familiar and competent using the cordellette, but instead CHOOSE to use the slings/rope because they think it's quicker and more effective? My sense of this conversation, so far, is that the sling-advocated continue to do so because they have not learned different means. The slings have always worked for them, so they continue to use them.... I believe that the cordellette is in fact simpler and faster and would like to ask if there are people who are comfortable and familiar with its simple use who dis-agree?

Never done it -- but my friend described it as kinda wandery and poor rock quality.... I hesitate saying this because I'd love a second opinion, if you're game for trying it....but honestly, I haven't heard anything good about the route from 2 people who did it.... Anyone else?

Mikester, are you on Verizon or what? I've always heard that Verizon was generally the best for remote mtn cell service...

Yes -- what cbs said...that's what I'm talkin' bout!

That thing was smashed fairly flat last I saw it (two weeks ago I think) -- but you could probably thread a sling through it....or maybe a very narrow-profile carabiner?

Received via email - best wishes to Chaya and the family. Contrary to previous speculation, this was not a fatal accident.

in-situ nut still in place despite best efforts of

I know tha there is an "Explorer Post" climbing organization for youths in the PDX area -- not sure of their exact contact info -- but I know they're always grateful for donations!

Yeah, I saw spots where pro could go...but honestly the rock quality there was the sort of exfoliating, kitty litter rock that parts of Libert Bell seem to be afflicted with... I definitely agree with the "easily protected" part, but am not so sure about the "well protected" part in terms of actually holding a fall... TR-ing it was fun!

Here's my best shot at it...

No luck yet?

Kevin O, Would you do it again (on purpose)?

I second Rapple Grapple as a nice alternative to the Beckey Route. I noticed that the "Cave Route" on Concord had a huge pile of snow and ice in the cave entrance, making it not a savory choice right now unless you are sick. The regular N Face of Concord route was also still rather wet from lingering snow... We actually top-roped the first pitch of Overexposure after rapping off and it was fun, but seemed a bit thoughtful to adequately protect....really only a few hard, unprotected moves, but not appealing (to me) to lead it.

Looks like Colonial, Paul Bunyan's Stump, and Pyramid peaks to me...

Ya think? Oops, I just sprayed...

Way to go on your first alpine lead, LisaD! Great to meet you and Lee up there. What a glorious day! Thanks for the good summit company and PBR Tall-boys in the parking lot! Hope to see y'all again in the hills... - Goatboy

Interesting stuff - thanks -- could you tell how far below the "notch" (at the top of the gully) you were when you turned back?

Great photos -- thanks! The summit pyramid looks kinda icy and spicy! Why did you want more screws? I have heard that there is good rock pro you can get in near the ice steps.... I assume that was not what you found?

Bummer about Blackjack! I hope he turns up okay.

Boulder field = tempting but super bad Down by creek = mo bettah!

Nice photos. A good example of how the snow can improve the alpine character and quality of the route! The bolt is hiding on the climber's left of the narrow rock fin near the top - I believe it's shown in the second picture you posted, though it looks a lot snowier here than I'm used to seeing it.

So, here's what I said I was GOING TO DO: What ACTUALLY happened... Got scared off by the marginal weather forecast for the Stuart Range and ended up doing some fun rock climbing instead: Saturday: 7 pitches at Castle Rock (Fault, Catapult, Saints, Angel Crack) Sunday: White Slabs at SCW Monday: Canary at Castle, sit in traffic on HWY 2 to get home... Monday night -- I am now on my way to Sushi feast in Seattle at I Love Sushi on Lake Union....so good!!!

So, here's a closely-controlled scientific experiment: Curious what folks PLAN to do over the long weekend and then hearing what ACTUALLY happened once the weekend is over.... I'll start: My PLAN is to go climb in Leavenworth -- Objectives are SGC or NE Couloir on Colchuck depending on what the weather does... backup plan is cragging in the Icicle and Castle rock if weather dictates... What ACTUALLY happened...(will fill in after weekend) Anyone else want to play?