TimL

Most of the time when I'm at Smith I sport climb, but I have to say Karate Crack and the Moonshine Dihedral are both really fun warm up climbs. Someone made the statement that crack climbing and sport climbing are totally different. I think different. On harder thin crack climbs I use many of the same techniques as I do on harder sport climbs. But I would also like to add the disclaimer that lower grade crack climbs are now where near low grade sport climbs. [ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: TimL ] [ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: TimL ] [ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: TimL ] [ 01-25-2002: Message edited by: TimL ]

Matt, If you dislike the ice beta that bad, don't look or ask for it. If your that interested in the climb, nothing serves better that to check it out yourself. I think most beta on the site is useful, that is if posted under the correct thread. Tim

R&I Pakistan peak fees cut in half January 22, 2002 Pakistan's Federal Minister for Tourism Col. S.K. Tressler announced a 50 percent reduction in peak fee royalties for mountaineering expeditions in 2002. The announcement came in the wake of a beleaguered tourism industry, which had been affected by the September 11 terrorist attacks. Pakistan hopes to encourage mountaineers and trekkers to visit Pakistan during the "Year of the Mountain." Currently, less than five mountaineering bookings are still confirmed for 2002, according to Ayub Afridi, Public Relations Director for the Ministry of Tourism. By comparison, Pakistan received a record 74 mountaineering expeditions (above 6,000 meters or in restricted or closed zones) with 453 climbers in 2001. The royalty revenue from these expeditions totaled $555,305. Also, a record 245 registered treks with 1,319 trekkers entered restricted areas, primarily the Baltoro glacier up to K2. The revenue from trekking fees was $67,420. Some call Pakistan a risky place to climb. However, in the last four decades over 250 climbers and trekkers have died in Pakistan's mountains of accidents, injuries and illness. In the same period, only three foreigners have been murdered. Ned Gillette was killed on August 4, 1999 in Haramosh Valley. On April 27, 2001, two Czech budget hikers Gabriella Gubicova and her friend Petr Polasek, were murdered in Gupis, near Gilgit. (Petr's body has not been found, but he is believed to have been murdered.) Both Gillette and the Czech trekkers were traveling without local guides or porters. Pakistan's reduced Peak fees for 2002 are as follows: K2 (8,611 meters): US $6,000 and US $3,000 for each additional member over seven 8,001-8,500 meters: US $4,750 and US $1,000 for each additional member over seven 7,501-8,000 meters: US $2,000 and US $500 for each additional member over seven 7,001-7,500 meters: US $1,250 and US $300 for each additional member over seven 6,000-7,000 meters: US $750 and US $200 for each additional member over seven Under 6,000 meters: No permit needed in open zones. Trekking fees due if permit is in restricted or closed zones. Generally, permits are issued before December 31 the year before the expedition occurs. Peak royalty fees must first be deposited in a Pakistan embassy or with the Ministry. However, latecomers will be accommodated this year. Peak royalty fees are reduced and pro-rated if any expedition members are Pakistani citizens. All foreign expeditions must provide Pakistan's Ministry of Tourism with evidence of $20,000 evacuation insurance or guarantee of a $6,000 bond deposited with Askari Aviation (www.askariaviation.com), an embassy, Pakistan tour operator or traveler's checks held in lieu with the Ministry. In 2001, life insurance for porters doubled to Pakistan Rupees 100,000 (about $1,640). Trekking fees remain $40 per person since 1999. Trekking and climbing permits must be obtained through a licensed Pakistani tour operator, but do not need advance registration. Permits can be obtained in one day in Islamabad. The Ministry moved in 2000 to the Sport complex in Islamabad on Shahra-e-Kashmir road. The Ministry is open Monday-Friday, 8a.m. to 4p.m., half days on Saturday and closed on Sundays. Contact: Mr. Ayub Afridi Public Relations Director Ministry of Tourism, Sports and Culture Sports Complex Building near Abbpara market Islamabad, Pakistan Phone: 011-92-251-9203509 Fax: 011-92-251-9202347 Web: http://www.tourism.gov.pk/ministry_of_tourism.html

Establish your belay is a safe spot out of the line of fire be it rock or ice.

Depending on what type of cams you use, both BD and Metolius will resling and wire cams for pretty cheap. Last time I sent my cams in to Met it was a year ago and they charged 7 bucks a cam to rewire, resling and mail the cam back. I received the cams back in about 4-6 weeks. I'm sending another batch in this week and I'll post if prices change.

W, Very well said. TimL

Raf, It was the first time I've seen it there and I left it. Didn't have the means to take it out. How was the rest of your time in Canada? I talked to Wes and he said he saw you guys at Icy BC. TL

A couple of days before Christmas I took a friend to the GNS. While rapping off I noticed someone sunk a pin into the lower part of the 5.10c corner/thin crack boulder problem. Most of the areas around the lower wall are free climbs, clean aid or potential soon-to-be free climbs. Please don't pound pins in clean climbing routes. On another note, I have noticed a lot of old hardware has been removed and replaced with new hardware. I would like to thank those folks who have taken the time and money to upgrade the area.

My friend climbed the upper column and curtain about 3 weeks ago (awesome, inspiring lead) and it was formed. Myself and another guy followed the pitch and although the climbing was delicate we though it was pretty good. Also, we climbed Guiness Gulley (Field) around 3 weeks ago as well and it was very good. My friend did't even use any pitons to protect the first pitch The pitches above the gulley looked fat. [ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: TimL ]

Yoda, use the force.

Colin - Synchronicity was in and maybe a little thin from our vantage point on 12/31.

Bronco 0 Don't they have enough weapons at the Index gun club? If I see some road kill I'll throw it in my haul bag for you. Holly - I might be there on Sat. Depends on how hard it is raining. [ 12-21-2001: Message edited by: TimL ]

Looking to see if anyone has been to the area lately and if any ice is formed. Thanks for any and all beta!

I thought Cascade Falls in Banff was really fun. The first part was easy enough to solo and we roped up for the final 2 pitched of WI 3. Beware of avy danger from the basin above the climb. I agree with Rafael, the setting for Grotto was really pleasent and the climbing moderate and fun.

[ 12-20-2001: Message edited by: TimL ]

Give up Freddy. Nobody want your vintage climbing crap.

I'll trade you for a shorty Black Diamond Express. Slightly used.

Hey, that is where I was a couple days ago!

I believe Goran Kropp rode his bike to Everest and climbed the mountain without support and then rode back with his girlfriend. He might of used some of the other expeditions fixed ropes and taken some food when offered in the latter stages of the trip, but that doesn't diminish the fact that he is bad ass. His book is really good. I think he also did K2 solo because the team he was with bagged out.

I have a pair of the guides and I love them. For me it was more like breaking my foot in to the boot then actually breaking the boot in. [ 11-23-2001: Message edited by: TimL ]

I'm heading down to Smith on Thursday evening. I'm just concerned about the weather. My buddy and I tried to climb in the rain on Monday but when I noticed I could take a bath in the huecos at Morning Glory because they were so full of water we decided to throw in the towel. [ 11-21-2001: Message edited by: TimL ]

Does anyone have beta for winter/late season routes to do on one of the Sisters or Mt. Jefferson. Correct me if I'm wrong but it appears after driving to and from Smith this fall the range might get slighty better weather than the Cascades. I remember a friend saying something about the West Ridge of Jefferson in winter but I can't recall if it was good or bad, just a long approach. I'm looking to do something in the range over Thanksgiving if up north hasn't had the chance to freeze. Thanks for any and all beta. Tim Lawrence

[ 11-07-2001: Message edited by: TimL ]

One of my favorite Beckey statements is in the route description for Liberty Crack. "Note that the last portion to the route base sometimes has plentiful dropped booty. A clever ploy is to bring a climbing slave to return the approach gear back to the road."

Make sure to include neon lights underneath the ride.