TimL

This is a topic that has caught my fancy ever since I watched a buddy pull out a bolt(just using body weight) on the 5th pitch of Town Crier at Index this spring. As I understand, the bolt and remaining bolts on the ladder were replaced by several individuals who we owe thanks. Since then I've been climbing here and there and noticed/appalled by some of the original bolts/fixed pitons that are lurking on many popular routes in the range. I'm sure everyone is aware of "time bombs" in need of replacing. In order to stimulate constructive thought, the following are several questions that come to mind regarding the subject: - Who bears the responsibility to replace/ clean old fixed gear? - Should the community form a fund for replacing fixed anchors? Climb On in Squamish has a jar on counter of the store for donations for area fixed anchor restoration. - Should a "time bomb" list be formed in hopes of specifying restoration efforts? - In an attempt to minimize rock damage should old pitons be removed and replaced with bolts instead of nailing a new piton every couple of years? Granted this is a huge topic but many more questions should be asked and answered with the hope of eventually making our mountains and crags a more climber friendly environment. Shoot Away!

Climbed Liberty Crack on Fri/Sat. With a fair amount of people on the route this weekend it lived up to the status of one of the 50 crowded climbs in North America. I thought the first 4 pitches were really good and the last 5.9 pitch was good as well. The belay bolts on p9 need to be replaced. Good route, I got what I paid for!

Me, It depends how nice/brutal you want your day climbs to be. North Face of Burgandy 5.8 is a nice/brutal day climb that entails use of a full day. For something a little more chill maybe try Vesper Peak, the Tooth, Ingalls Peak East Ridge and tons of stuff in the Liberty Bell group. Enjoy, Us

Please forgive me Mr. Blister..Ha...ha Just trying to pound them out before the day comes when I'll be a desk monkey once again! Bobinc - What did you think of NW Corner? Its one of my favorite routes at WA Pass. I thought it was neat going through the summit box and reading all of the notes from the hard men who have visited the spire. THe DEB of SEWS was really fun. In my humble opinion, I would say it ranks next in quality to the NW Corner. You might get a pleasent surprise in the approach gulley if you go for the route soon. Just make sure to bring a prussik or a T-Block ascender!

Poor Mr. Blister. Check out the Outdoor Life Network for High Country Climber. That should provide some entertainment while watching the chllins. Climbed the East Buttress Direct of South Early Winters Spire on Saturday. Awesome route with great rock and good exposure. For a route that looks long it went pretty quickly. Many thanks to the Olympia climbers who gave my friend and I a ride from the Blue Lake trailhead back down to the hair pin.

Sounds like its worth going back and finishing. Thanks for the beta.

Has anybody completed this route recently? We did the first pitch last weekend and it was dirty enough to suggest that the route, at least the lower pitches, have not seen much traffic for a while.

The Shining Mountain - Peter Boardman

Slow Children,yes West Ridge, Prussik Peak 5.7 - just pure fun Senseless Thought of Paronia - 5.11b/c variation to Lovin Arms - Index - excellent Great Northern Slab - Twin Cracks fun, fun, fun Town Crier - P4 Triple Overhand pitch C1

With so much good climbing and so little time, I wanted to hear what people think are some best pitches in the PNW. The type of pitches that makes one think "This is why I climb". Granted a little spray might be involved, but take the spray for what it is and use the beta as a good resource. R&D, Icicle Buttress - Leavenworth - Last pitch 5.5 hand crack NW Corner, North Early Winters Spire - p3 & p4 5.9 - every type of climbing technique imaginable must be used! Off Duty, Duty Dome Leavenworth - 5.10a slab - intricate and exciting crimping with a thought provoking run outs. Thanks Vik! Davis-Holland, Upper Index Town Wall - p2 5.10a corner hand crack - beautiful Thin Fingers, Lower Index Town Wall - p2 5.something - legendary!

Just look at the DDD restoration. You could write several papers on that one topic.

If my memory serves me correctly, there is not much if not any snow on the west side of Burgundy. I'm pretty sure there is no snow in the gulley you are talking about. Everything seemed really dry when we were up there a month ago. Hope this helps.

Crampons -No Ice Axe - No Mountain Boots - No A month ago there was no snow in the gulley. I approached Burgundy in tennis shoes and had no problem. You probably won't need to carry over since my guess is you'll be rapping the North Face route. The start to the North Face toute is just a couple hundred feet up the gulley. When viewing the approach route to Burgundy from the highway you see the major gullry coming down from Burgundy Col which is to be avioded like the plague. Instead from the level shelf below Buruandy following the trail and stay in the left hand gulley system (it should be marked with cairns). Once a couple hundred feet below Burgundy Col start traversing right to the actual col. The route should be doable in a day if you leave early. We were able to complete the North Face in a day with light to spare. Have fun! [This message has been edited by TimL (edited 08-03-2001).]

Anybody remember who said this, "The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun!"

Index was nice yesterday. The huge pumpy, bolted flake I think your talking about is Gorilla in my Dreams 5.10b. Fun route. Don't know what the others are.

Just a little recent beta. I was at the base of the Upper N. Ridge yesterday morning. The snow gulley leading to the ridge has patchy snow. An ice axe was very useful in crossing the glacier. As the season progresses crampons should be useful to cross the glacier, it looks like some sections are starting to get a bit icy. The route looks to be very beautiful. Much to our surprise, a weak weather system came in early yesterday morning causing a white out on the north side and some sporty wind. Cool thing is I got to see the Stuart rain shadow action in full swing. After waiting a while my partner and I bailed because I didn't think we could complete the route in the manner I was hoping. Enough lamenting. A question to everyone who has completed the upper North Ridge of Stuart. Is it easier to carry over and head out via Longs Pass or leave bivy gear at Goat Pass and come back for it after the climb is completed? Any and all suggestions will be appreciated!

I agree with Mr. Rogers. The routes at Ska ha tend to get boring there after a couple days, ever the harder ones. If its your first time at the area, you should have a blast. The contributing factor to Mr. Rogers and I being bored is we were rained out from Squamish. Although a little spendy, Branbury greens is a great place to stay. Its the water, faily quiet and has showers. The Hogs Breath is a great cafe to have coffee and breakfeast in the morning. The owner is a really cool person. 2 of my favorites bolted lines are Dr. Megatrip at Dr.s Wall and Wings of Desire at Great White Wall (all time classic). Mrs. Palmer and Gang Bang are good gear lines at the Great White Wall. Plumbline is a must do. Enjoy!

Ed, Just throw your bag out in the grass in El Cap meadow later in the evening or behind a boulder or in the woods at Camp 4. If you go to camp 4 and don't pay, just pick up your bag 1st thing in the mourning before the rangers come around. We just kept our bags and sleeping pads in our bear box at C4 and threw them out on the ground after cooking dinner. Granted we did pay for a spot for a week then "forgot" to pay for the space for the next 2. We were able to get free showers by showing up at Laundry Camp late around 9 or so. Nobody was checking the entrance to we just grabbed a towel and walked in. Also, there is always the Devil's Bathtub.. ha..ha. Avoid going to the bar and pizza joint anytime other than when you've gotten off a big climb. That place will suck you dry before you know it. Enjoy

I was thinking the person that should chop the bolts should also be the person to lead the route on gear/original state. If your not strong enough to lead the route, then maybe chopping them is out of the question. I think the above scenario would serve justice to the statement of chopping the route. Since the act is already completed, all I got to say is good job guys. Hopefully the rock looks good and this subject will fall into obscurity.

Everyone has there idea of of fast and light versus bring the comforts of home into the wilderness. I thought I was going light and one of my friends pulls around me with a pack half the weight of mine. And its cool if you want to huck an 80 pound pack to base camp. But when a faster party is blowing past you on a route because your hauling to much or tired because you carried to much yesterday, don't bitch.

All to often people talk bragging rights, numbers, beginners/novices/experts bullshit and so on... Just remember... its all about kicking it with friends, enjoying being in the hills and having fun!

All I have to say is ring-tailed cats. They live on ledges in Yosemite, at least thats the only place I've seen them, and they will stop at nothing to get your food. We bivied on a ledge this spring with another group and no shit one of the cats crawled over this dudes head to get to his food sack. Dude thought he was trippin because he smoked to much dope earlier till I pointed out the cat getting ready to nibble on his ear.

One of the coolest pastimes while belaying my partner on a long aid pitch in the valley is watching the falcons dive bomb for their prey. Granted I have no idea what kind of birds they are but the speed they come flying down the wall is amazing. Several times I ducked because it sounded like rockfall was coming down, but it was just the birds. Anybody else have have experiences like this. Of course I stoped paying attention to the birds when my partner started to bring the Gameboy along.

Come on... climbing in the cascades is all about rainy weekends.

Was hiking on Sahale Arm yesterday and saw how amazing Forbidden Peak looked. Looks like a Cascade ultra classic. Anybody up for the West Ridge this weekend? Email Lucky14956@aol.com.