TimL

This topic reminds me of an interesting situation a partner and I had last year while climbing Hyperspace. Before the climb my buddy mentioned he forgot his hearing aid at home and so we were going to need to use his radios. After climbing the Psychopath pitch I put him on belay and had a sudden feeling that I dropped something. Well, looked down only to see the radio bouncing down the wall and disappearing into a hundred thousand pieces at the base. The next pitch consisted of a bunch of "what"..."yeeeaaahhhh, belay is ooonnn". After a pitch of doing screaming commands we quickly figured out a tug system. Moral of the story is radios are nice but figure out a tug system as well in case something happens to the radio.

Trundle Dome has some really good slab climbing but not as good as Off Duty. I actually have never climbed a better pure slab route. I hear Goat Dome has some good stuff as well. [ 09-04-2002, 03:01 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Unless someone is drivin I aint showin. I could give you a ride back to Redmond if you could get a ride to Alki.

Might also want to check out the Boving variation to the West Ridge. [ 08-29-2002, 06:55 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

Probably be more like a grovel fest.

Dynos, sloppers, dirty slabs and OW cracks are all something I can deal with, but class 5 shoulder stands? Please Fred Beckey, come out and give us a clue here? Is it awaiting a first "free" ascent?

Does anyone have information on any of the routes in this part of the Temple Range? Basically I'm looking for any information on Mt. Temple, Razorback Spire, Comet Spire, The Meteor, The Professor and Lighthouse Tower. Also wondering if an ice axe and crampons would be reccomended for this area this time of year or should most of the snow in the basin below temple Ridge be gone by now? BTW - One of the best Beckey descriptions I've come acrossed happens to be for the Meteor. "This short but exposed route involved two shoulder stands to gain lichened slab. Class 4 or 5) [ 08-28-2002, 02:47 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

We got a late start from Mazama on Sunday and sat at the Blue Lake TH for a while trying to decide what to do and what the weather was doing. After a couple minutes of watching the building thunderheads we decided to turn tail and head to Seattle and get some stuff done so we could climb on Tuesday. Charlie - thanks for validating our decision.

Wild Things Ice Sac rulz. Never had a better multi purpose pack. I also like the Lowe Alpine Summit Attack packs. Really light and climbs well.

Didn't get caught on Sunday but did on Saturday! Nice thunder and lightning. Its only the 2nd time this year I've been stuck under a boulder waiting for the skies to clear. Although this time we were descending from the top instead of retreating. Anybody know if there was bad weather in Leavenworth this weekend or was it just around WA Pass.

At Index try GM pitch 2 & 3 both 5.9. Try Damnation 5.8 at Castle Rock in Leavenworth and Hidden Crack 5.8 at Givlers Dome. The Flame 5.8 at Midnight gets wide as well and is really fun with a setting that can't be beat.

Index has a lot of fun, hard sport climbs around the Clay area. Friendly Fire and Engines of Archimedes are both really good. 2nd pitch of Kite Flying Blind has to be one of the hardest pitches for its grade that I've ever climbed but its ****. Phone Calls fron the Dead to the right of GM is really good. Bring small nuts to protect the section where the bolts run out.

and pounding pins in clean climbs is lame

Funny thing, I never hear of sport climbers complaining about gear climbers. It’s always gear climbers bitching and moaning about sport climbers. What gives? The only thing I hear from sport climbers as "trad" climbers pass by at the crags is chuckles:D or laughter at the self righteous idiot in a helmet with all new gear and chaotic mess of slings draped over themselves like a medieval barbarian proclaiming some mantra about bolts this or that. Climbing is supposed to be fun. If your so involved that your knocking people for being a sport or a trad climber and not focusing on you and your friends climbing maybe you should see a doctor. Or just do something else like play in traffic!

Alpine Tom, I glanced over at Buckner N. Face on Tuesday while on Sharkfin Tower and it pretty much looks the same as Caveman's picture except with bigger bergschrunds and it looked to have some ice near the top. Also a little more rockfall on the route but thats to be expected. The bergschunds might make getting on the route a bit more interesting but I'm sure with a little creativity you won't have a problem.

Also lost a set of Aliens and a set or BD cams to #5. If any of you guys would like to donate to the cause, you know where to reach me. Hey Fred.. yourself

Thanks Erik!

quote: Originally posted by Jedi: They had a meter of snow last week (in one dump), I think. Jedi, Have you heard any other beta about weather or climbing conditions? I'm thinking of heading up there the last week of August. Thanks.

Lost a red REI trekking pole on 8/13 either in the approach gulley to Sharkfin Tower right off the Quine Sabe glacier or at the base of the SE Ridge. If anyone happens to stumble across it please email me at Lucky14956@aol.com. Thanks in advance. Tim

Left Saturday morning and got to the Murrin Park parking lot by 10am. Rafael H and I wanted to warm up before we headed over to Nightmare Rock, the so-called heavy hitter crag of Squamish. We roped up for a 5.10a on Bog Wall then soloed a 5.7 OW and 5.9 a couples times. Then went to Exodus wall and soloed a couple 5.4's and a 5.7. After that I felt warmed up enough to onsight a 100 ft 5.11a crack called Perspective. Next, climbed Sentry Box 5.12a crack in 1 fall. I was bummed I fell but I started off on the route pretty gripped after watching a couple of guys take wingers then aid up through the crux. The short version of this route is 5.10a and is magnificent on its own. Also, the bolted flake below Granddaddy overhang looks really easy but is hard 5.11a. I think the route name is Barn Door. Even though the Mclane guide say most routes are between 35 and 40 meters, we found a single 60m is enough to lower off most climbs. Maybe Mclane was measuring from the road? Sunday we were woken up by the camp ground host nazi pounding on our window asking for payment. After paying the man and a quick trip to Starbucks we headed over to the Sheriffs Badge and ran up the first 2 pitches of Borderline (5.10b & 5.9). Rafael climbed the 1st 5.7 pitch of the Daily Planet. I then sat under the 2nd pitch for an hour and stared into submission the most amazing, intimidating and challenging pitch I've ever contemplated leading. Daily Planet p2 is rated 5.12a and is the best single pitch I've ever seen in my life. Located in a giant dihedral that splits the left side of the Sheriffs Badge the start of the pitch is immediate 5.11 b/c stemming, palming and thin tip crack climbing past 2 questionable fixed pins for 20 ft. then another 20 ft of the same stuff with nothing but a string of RPs and small nuts. After the first 40 ft I milked a fantastic rest and finally some good gear. The next 40 ft felt like 5.11- laybacking the thin dihedral crack thin to a horrible rest below the crux. For the crux you clip a bolt, double undercling on a flake, left hand up high to a crip undercling, smear your feet up higher on a sloping knob, then rock your right and over to a thin tip crack. From there another good undercling for the left hand on a higher flake leads to a bomber hand jam, pro and in 10 ft. the chains. Truly amazing climb. Unfortunately, I had 4 falls after the first half. Rafael freaked because he said he was nervous and intimidated by just following the pitch. After climbing the first 40 ft. he loudly declared all the pro as crap. I thought it just added flavor to a truly magnificent pitch. After Rafael came down I TR'ed the pitch almost clean with one fall then lowered off and then we headed off to Starbucks for a quick cup of coffee before the long drive home. I figure next time we'll finish the route but I was happy just getting a feel for the 1st couple pitches. Also, I must thank Rafael for his encouragement and positive attitude. Anyone up for the grades and interested in **** crack climbs then both Nightmare Rock and the Sheriffs Badge are 2 of the best places I've climbed in Squamish. This might be a good question for Dru. We weren't able to see the Daily Planet descent anchors that are supposed to be located on the main face below the last pitch after the 5.11a traverse. Has something happened to them or are we just going blind? Also, do you know where I could get a topo for the Fortress of Solitude?

Thanx for the information. Great report!

SK, Try Duty Dome next to Icicle Buttress. There are a bunch of fun moderate mixed bolted and gear routes mostly single pitch. You can either make a day of it or spend 1/2 day there and its pretty fun. Also, beware of Leavenworth 5.8 & 5.9's.

Has anybody been up or have any information on weather and climbing conditions in the Rockies this season? Since I know the Rockies are a big range, I'm searching for information for the Lake Louise area and the Jasper/Columbia Icefields area. Looking to possibly head up during the last week of August to go for several moderates in both areas. Basically, general climbing conditions information, has the weather been unusually good or bad this year, etc? I don't know much about alpine climbing in the area besides what the Dougherty's Select book mentions so any and all beta is greatly appreciated.

quote: Originally posted by fredrogers: A little too ghetto bling-bling with the bright red, but that dulled considerably with trail dust. Fred Rogers aka the mountain pimp daddy

quote: Originally posted by Geek the Greek: NEway, I guess for this reason I think the "bragging rights" point of sport climbing is redpointing or on-sighting, but the "bragging rights" point of trad climbing can only be on-sighting. I thought the point of all climbing was onsighting? Why can trad climbing "only" be onsighting? [ 08-05-2002, 04:15 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]