TimL

[ 11-05-2001: Message edited by: TimL ]

When a buddy and I ran into Leo and his crew below and on the ledges to the start of the W. Face of Leaning Tower this spring they seemed likes swell chaps to me. The best was watching them down OE and roll up a blunt before jugging their fixed lines. After watching one of Leo's parnters screaming in a fit of terror while jugging the lines, (the start of the route is around 300 feet off the ground and the anchor point in which the rope was fixed hung out away from the ledges by about 30 feet) I offered to lower Leo out. He just smiled, clipped on his jumars & gri gri and jumped. I was horrified but he didn't even flinch. Just another day at work!

Pluto, Since you'll probably progress to other climbing areas outside of Marymoore I would get a 60 meter rope. Going with an 11m has its advantages and disadvantages. I've only used an 11 mm when wall climbing because of the harsh wear and tear of the environment. I think the biggest diameter you would want crag climbing would be a 10.5 mm but I think a 10.2 mm or 9.8 mm would be adequate. Why? Modern are strong enough I wouldn't worry about breaking, easier to handle and much lighter. Dry ropes are nice but I wouldn't let that be a large determining factor in your purchase, at least not yet. Also, I would like to point out the difference between buying a cheap rope and a more expensive rope. Not to be a brand whore but I’ve found that the more expensive ropes from reputable manufacturers last longer and have better handling. I personally like Edelweiss. Opinions are like assholes so you’ll hear that everyone favors a different brand. [ 10-26-2001: Message edited by: TimL ]

DPS - I hope you get to feeling better. Spoke to Nick and he wants to get together and see the slids of the Bugs and show the slides of your Alaska trip. What really gets me psyched in no particular order... full time climbing, women, a full time job and the thought of maybe coming close to being as bad ass as the dudes in the below story. Fast and light in Baffin Wright and Smith nab second ascent of Charlie Porter Route October 5, 2001 Though it hasn't had a successful ascent in more than 25 years, the Charlie Porter Route (VII 5.10+ A4) on Baffin Island's Mt. Asgard got the attention of Cedar Wright and Jason "Singer" Smith last August, when they became the second to climb the mighty line. The route, established in nine days by the gifted soloist Charlie Porter in 1975, was the first Grade VII in the world and a line that had been aptly described by Doug Scott in Heroic Climbs: A Celebration of World Mountaineering as “the greatest achievement in Baffin, the Arctic and probably anywhere.” Wright and Smith successfully completed the route in a 38-hour continuous push, logging 54 waking hours from base camp to base camp. On a roll during their visit, the pair also climbed the 4000-foot Scott Route (5.10+ A1) on Asgard in 3 hours, 56 minutes, free soloing more than half the route and according to Wright, marking “the birth of modern Yosemite speed-climbing tactics in Baffin.”

Great topic. The beautiful thing about climbing is that it is very possible to reach your dreams and ambitions in as many different disciplines as you want. I kinda look at my ambitions in stages of the places I want to get to. I have one season under my belt with ice climbing so this coming season I want to climb tons of ice so I'll have the expereince and confidence to climb alpine ice routes in Alaska and Canada in the best style. If you need a partner for ice this year give me a hollar. I love rock climbing, aid, gear, sport, alpine, walls you name it, its all good. I want to climb 5.12 gear so I can do routes like the Rostrum, Astroman and the Nose, preferably in a long day in good style. I think its all very attainable with ambition and an open mind.

John...something line at some place in Oregon?

Many of my friends and I have coined the term "climbing porn" for all related material including guidebooks, climbing mags and books because they are always in the bathroom, laying around the house or the first thing a climber picks up when they walk into a room. Its sounds from Mike's description the term describs Cavey reaction to walking into mike's house. A friend recommended reading Fountainhead after climbing a route named after a character in one of the author’s books. Seems to be a good book so far. Someone also recommended reading Fata Morgana after I mentioned climbing the route in Squamish. Haven't picked that one up yet but its on the list. On another note, I can't stand reading climbing books or mags while on a climbing trip and usually find myself pursuing subjects other than climbing when I climbing pretty intensely. Any other folks have the same reaction?

JK has Devil's Thumb type adventures all over the place all you need to do is look at 1st ascent info in various guide books. Bugaboo - South Howser Tower - Big Hose Route JK Solo 1978

I agree with Dale. The Iron Horse/Sag variation turning the roof on the left of the Sag anchors is really good stuff. One of the many great climbs Index has to offer.

I agree with DPS. The bathroom at boulder camp in the Bugs had the best view. [This message has been edited by TimL (edited 10-15-2001).]

A quote from a friend of mine who did one of the early ascents of Astroman on nuts and hexs. "So theres some 5.11 crack pitches on this climb...huh. I was leading 5.11 cracks before you were born."

I don't see how you can use the words "nice", "A4" and "copperheads" all in the same sentence. Really though, thanks for the beta. I have 4 knife blades, 4 angles , 2 lost arrows, 1 bird beak selection of cam and regular hooks, RPs and TCU's. Do you think that would be enough heavy metal for Snow White? Thanks. [This message has been edited by TimL (edited 10-11-2001).]

Can anyone steer me towards some moderate established A1-A2+ nailing routes in WA or just a good area of choss to whack in a couple pins or paste some heads? I was thinking Snow White to the left of Princly Ambitions at Index might prove to be an interesting adventure. Has anyone done this route or know the pin selection needed? I think the 2nd pitch of Stern Farmer has a short section of nailing but it is guarded by a large wasp nest. [This message has been edited by TimL (edited 10-11-2001).]

This is a really good thread. In a sense we are all pursuing numbers in one form or the other whether it is alpine, aid, sport, gear wall routes...etc. For most people the natural progression of climbing leads to attempting bigger goals with larger "numbers". Now some people are more vocal than others but the beauty of any aspect of the sport of climbing is that the sky is the limit and you decide when to throw in the towel. Yes, I am "goal oriented" and actively chasing higher number in all mediums of climbing but not for notoriety or a rep. I think its fun to push myself to the limits of my ability and also to help other partners push their limits/numbers. With that said, I never let the pursuit of numbers cloud the other important reasons why I climb such as kicking it with friends, seeing new places and meeting new people.

Wow, just imagine how much time and energy is wasted on such topics when one could call in sick and be climbing on such a nice day. Why do people always have to label. We are all climbers and we are all doing it hopefully to have fun. Who gives a fuck if its bolts or crack, ice or rock. Who was it that said the best climber in the world was the one having the most fun? I find that sport climbing helps crack climbing and with endurance on technical mountain routes. If you approach the different aspects of climbing (sport, crack, mountaineering, aid etc) with an open mind you will be surprised at how it will help your overall abiltiy.

City Park is a really good clean aid climb. If soloing sling the big rock at the base of the climb and tie-off a couple of the bolts as additional anchors. After you graduate from CP try 10%. It is a really good C2 micro nutting test piece to the left of Jap Gardens. Iron Horse and Stern Farmer are both good clean aid routes but both require a hook move. Be careful of zippering Iron Horse I've seen it happen before. I've also seen people aiding Thin Fingers. Enjoy!

What stands out the most about the Mole is the approach, descent and the beauty of the area. The Mole as a climb is very easy and uneventful. Although after looking up at it from the Icicle for so long it is nice to have finally climbed it. As Fred Rogers mentioned, it would be better to spend some time in the Enchantments and knock the Mole off as part of a trip then just a weekend jaunt. I would recommend coming over Prusik Pass. On another topic. Has anyone done the Temple Range traverse? I know you can start on the W. Ridge of Prusik but were would the actual traverse end?

Yep, just hide it in Mr. Calves backpack. [This message has been edited by TimL (edited 09-28-2001).]

Does anyone know if a 50 meter rope will be OK for getting off the the above mentioned climbs? Why pack the weight of a 60 meter rope if you don't have to?

Sold to TG.

I have a set of Lowe Tri-Cams in good shape from .5 to 2.5 that I'm looking to sale. $30 for 5 Tri-Cams. Anybody interested?

[This message has been edited by TimL (edited 09-25-2001).] [This message has been edited by TimL (edited 09-25-2001).]

OK folks......STOP with the BS My original intentions in starting this topic were to ask for some simple beta and I received some excellent information. Thanks folks. I completed the climb yesterday in great conditions. I think Nelson was very correct in saying Hyperspace is the "Astroman" of Leavenworth. So in proper Yosemite style we drank coffee and took our time getting to the base and didn't start the climb till 11:30. Besides, doing the descent trail off the Snow Creek Wall in the dark is a favorite past time of mine. The climb was mostly great, in places dirty, in places really hard and in total fairly long. With more traffic and some cleaning I think it would be a **** Washington classic. I thought the Psychopath pitch was the best pitch on the climb. The first 4 pitches went by quickly and were spectacular! The last 4 tended to take more time and were more difficult. The previous posts give really good beta. I saw and used 1 set of bolts for anchors on the top of the 1st pitch on Iconoclast. Yes, probably not the best resources but it is possible to contrive a gear belay using a small tree and a loose death flake. The anchor chains were welcomed and in my opinion should be left for future climbers. I did see a bolt high and right of Iconoclast probably leading out to Outer Space. This bolt seems to be in the place the Leavenworth guidebook describes it. Lets not let a small issue about bolting cloud the hype on a fantastic climb. Retro: Your a cool guy. I've met you before on Castle Rock and understand your feelings about your home crags. We all have to pick and choose our battles and I think the bolting issues brought up surrounding this climb might not be that big of a deal. Maybe a more productive stance would be to recruit some help to clean the gunk off Hyperspace so more people will enjoy it in the future?

Any beta about the route would be appreciated. Thanks!

Did the Grand Wall in Squamish on Saturday. The Split Pillar is so good. The Sword and Perry's lay back were really fun but felt soft for the grade. The climb is a must do classic for the area!