TimL

Matt or Forrest - What type of rack would you reccomend for this route if mostly free climbing? Doubles in cams to 2 set of nuts and RPs?

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000058 Post a TR after your climb. I've been wondering about the NF for a while.

Good job! This has nothing to do with Lexington, but are the bugs still really bad at the pass?

It seems like I've never been shut down sport climbing like I have alpine climbing in the Cascades. Except, a friend and I attempted Swim at the Upper Index Town Wall. The 1st pitch shut me down big time. I never knew a bolted 11d could be that hard. Then again its Index and I should of seen it coming.

The biggest on my list is Clean Break on Juno Tower. Tried it once last year and turned around because of bad weather then tried it again this year and got to the base too late for a day climb. It will go here soon. Its to good of a route!

Last time I went past panty rock in Leavenworth someone had donated some undergarments. Was the you LG?

My favorite type of climbing is being able to walk to a route, be it alpine rock or ice, sport, big walls, mountains, etc., and onsite the sucker and get down in time for beer. All to often I hear of people and myself taking several attempts to bag a climb or send a route. I know this is all part of climbing and nobody can be 100% successful but I think it just sucks. So it almost feels like a sweet revenge to be able to go back to a route and send it after not climbing it the first time. Climbing in the Cascades has proved this to be true fairly often even with easy routes. Anybody have good stories about attempting a route, not getting it for various reasons and coming back and sending? I know of people who have tried Big Four 4 or 5 times without making it to the summit. Myself, I’ve tried the North Ridge of Stuart 2 times and both times have been weathered out in the morning when “perfect” forecasts have been predicted. Spray away!

[ 08-02-2002, 04:24 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

Didn't Uemura dissapear trying to solo Denali in winter? If I remember correctly, people thought he might of fallen into a crevasse and perished. If so, its obvious his system worked well.

I think what would be more interesting to find out is why the weather system came is so quickly and why the weather people weren't able to predict such a large system? Not that I'm trying to point a finger at the weather folks, but it would be interesting to know what sort of conditions facilitated such a rapid deterioration. [ 07-31-2002, 01:49 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

I saw the same thing as Lambone did on Saturday evening. As the sun set, the only difference in the weather in the Stuart Range was the wind picked up a little. Actually, it was a very beautiful evening. Everything else was completely normal with no changes in the low hanging clouds over the Cascade Crest. I never thought the weather would turn as bad as it did without any of the normal Cascade indicators. The wind that hit LB at midnight hit us around 3. At 5 the summit of Stuart was clouded but I could clearly see the the Colchuck Lake area and Icicle Valley. By 5:30 is was pea soup. It was a very sneaky, quick moving system. And the wind was horrible. I got intimate with the glacier a couple of times after being slammed by the wind while retreating. LB's party made the correct decision and walked out alive. We've already had enough drama and life lost in the Cascades this year. No need for more. Besides, its only climbing and its supposed to be fun. [ 07-31-2002, 01:22 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

Experienced climbers have just knowledge to get them in a bad situation regardless if they know how to get out of it. Besides, most expereince comes from bad judgement. I'm sure thats something we all can realte to. Go figure.....

Well said Trask.

No epics just Cascade punishment. Left Saturday morning for the N Ridge of Stuart. Saturday evening had an awesome bivy on the rock outcrop between Goat Pass and the N Ridge. Because we were going "light" we carries no sleeping bags just a bivy sack and some extra cloths. My partner remarked before hitting the sack, "What nice weather, it'll never rain tomorrow", as I was stuffing my pack as I always do before bivies. Call it Cascade paranoia. About that time a party passed through our camp heading up to bivy at the notch in the N. Ridge. We let them know of the 1 party already up there but I guess turbo dude and his chick wanted to get a head start on us in the morning. Whatever, we'll pass them in the morning I thought. Right about then a cold when started from the NW and clouds started to emerge on the Cascade Crest. Quite odd, but the weatherman said Sunday would be a perfect day. As the sun set I had a feeling it was going to be a cold night. Throughout bouts of shivering and getting up to go and watching my pee shoot horizontally out onto the glacier I knew our chances for climbing the next day were diminishing. It seemed like forever before 5 came but as I poked my head out the bivy sack I noticed the Great Gendarme was cloud covered. Thirty minutes latter we were in a total white out. Being the optimist that I am, we shivered in our bivy sacs another 2 hours waiting for the weather to break. At 7:30 when horizontal rain started pelting us, we threw in the towel and started though the whiteout toward the car. After a couple near misses with small rockfall on the glacier we humped up to Goat pass, dropped onto the rock glacier where I almost got hit by another falling rock, trudged up Stuart Pass then walked the long path out to the car. Although we didn't climb anything, I'd say it was a good Cascade character building experience. The upper N. Ridge looks really fun and easy. The Gendarme didn't even look bad from the glacier. I can totally see how this would be an easy day route for a fast party. Maybe next time.

I've found that you get what you pay for when buying cams. Metolious cams are really good for the price, range and durability. Same thing goes with Black Diamond except I've found they are more durable than any other cams I've used in terms of wear and tear. I'd say drop the money and buy the good stuff. I've never used DMM cams but HB, Treango and Clog cams are my least favorite.

Has anyone completed this traverse starting from the WestRidge/South Face of Prussik. I know people who have traversed to the Monument but what peaks do you traverse after that and by what routes? Where do you exit the traverse? Thanks for any and all beta.

Ray, Just clip the keg to you harness and body weight hail the pig and additional kegs.

I don't ski but the conditions on the CD route last weekend were pretty straight forward. Might have to weave a couple times and take your sticks of to cross huge avy debris from the ice cliff before the CD saddle. It should go just fine. Have fun.

Anybody been up there since mwills? [ 07-25-2002, 02:07 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

[ 07-22-2002, 04:26 PM: Message edited by: TimL ]

HB brass offset nuts are awesome. I took a 15 footer on the red HB yesterday and much to my surprise it held perfectly. They are also very user friendly.

Thanks for you self-righteous announcement.

Easiest route is the south ridge I would say. I think there is maybe about 15 feet of 4th class below the summit. A lot of choss but cool position with great views of Goode. Its an easy day hike and taking gear up to go overnight seems almost a waste of energy. Although I will say the area is very pretty. [ 07-17-2002, 09:51 AM: Message edited by: TimL ]

You came really close but no cigar. Shit, what have I ever done to you? That was a big friggin rock. We were going for it in a day and got to the base a little late. Looking back, we should of just gone for it. We'll have better luck next time I'm sure. What was wrong with the 4th pitch? Why was it scary? Mosquitos were pretty harsh weren't they? How long did it take you guys to complete the route?

I found this guys site last week while cyberslacking at work. Has some pretty cool TR's on Canadian Rockies routes. http://www.dave-stephens.com/