TimL

Thanks both Alex and Dru. Done most of the ones you mentioned with the exception of Linda Ice Nine, Bow and Sniveling. I'm interested in doing longer routes but it looks like avy danger might be high so I'm also trying to check out routes were the danger is low. I was looking at coire dubh integral. Looks easy but fun and interesting. Musta been a good solo. And I think I gotta climb This House of Sky. Anyone climb Midnight Rambler or Elliot Left?

Alasdair - When you get back do me a favor and post or pm me if there is any ice and what the snow conditions are like. Thinking about climbing in the Snoqualmie Alps tomorrow but would appreciate the beta if the conditions are crappy. i'd favor Index granite over a wallow fest in bad snow. Thanks

We all deserve one!

I am interested in hearing peoples opinions on their favorite CA Rockies moderate (WI3/easy WI4) ice climbs around the Banff, Field, Canmore and Icefields Parkway areas? Thanks

I have a Wild Things Ice Sac that I really like for carry overs and pretty much has all the features you mentioned. Check it out. I think both Pro Mountain Sports and Feathered Friends carrys them.

I usually don't talk too much about climbing to my non-climbing friends because we're to busy talking about other stuff. If they ask about my weekend I just usually say climbing at such and such and don't really elaborate because thats enough for them to understand. Only time I elaborate is if I come back with an obvious war wound. I usually respond to people at work by saying, "I went out hiking".

So your going to the New now and not Yo? We'll see what happens with climbing frozen mud. I guess better than slushy ice. Might be down at Smith this weekend since there is no point in going up to littlewet to snorkel. We'll see. There still is hope.

Thanks DFA!

The green stuff is actually in the tube connecting the mouth piece to the bag.

This is a little off the subject but I have a Platypus that I used all summer and the mouth tube has some green stuff mold/fugus/I'm not sure what growing in the tube section. I must of not let it dry before packing it after a trip. Anyone know a good method or substance for cleaning this stuff out?

Dane - I've looked at Stevens Pass Hotel before it looks really good and although I've not been on it looks really hard and ran out at the top. I'd like to do it next fall. Also, try Lazy Boy and Radio Sex on 8 Mile Rock. 2 very good routes. Cave & Rocket - I've been wanting to do Mary Jane Dihedral for a long time. Looks like fun. Ahhhh - The Serenity Crack thru Sons combo. Killer all time favorite. The 100 ft 5.9 handcrack towards the top is amazing. I think the super topo says to bring like 2 or 3 2 inch pieces. I remember my partner dropping two of three 2 inch pieces right before that pitch and it was my lead. And if I remember correctly ehmic and Matt found 1 at the base and returned it to us latter that evening.

Supercrack will go. Might be interesting in terms of the large amounts of air time. I remeber when you, Jens and Highlander were on it this fall. Sounds like the top will be tough and might need cleaning.

I’d have to say these are the routes that inspire me either because of their beauty, quality or technical difficulty. Either way when I’m training these routes give me motivation. Rock: 1.) Clay, Index – redpoint 2.) Super Crack Leavenworth – lead 3.) Kings of Rap, Smith - redpoint 1.) Daily Planet, Squamish – redpoint the 1st crux pitch and finish the rest 2.) Juno Tower – Clean Break 3.) Colchuck Balenced Rock – West Face 3t) Temple Range Traverse 3yo) Nose - El Cap – I’ll be back for round II 3yo) Rostrum – North Face 3yo) Astroman (I’m cheating on this one) Alpine – 1) Baker North Ridge 2) Chair – NE Butt 3) Eldorado – NW Couloir 3a) Dragontail – Triple Couloirs Ice Night n Gale – littlewet Synchronicity – littlewet Aid: 1) Green Dragon Tex – I’ll belay you on ROTC (its soft for the grade, you should onsight it) if you’ll belay me on Supercrack. There is to much to do around here and not enough good weather. Let alone Cascade stuff I gotta make it up to the Canandian Rockies for the alpine season up there.

Post deleted by TimL

What are the 3 top routes your going to go for in 2003. Can be alpine, sport, trad, ice...or top 3 in all catagories? Spray away guys!

I agree and until a couple years ago I didn't know to give a good sport belay or use a Gri-gri. Thank God I've learned. At least for me the tendency for an alpine belay is to pull back were with a sport belay I'll step into the fall which, correct me if I'm wrong, is a more dynamic belay. Now I'll try to pretty much step into any fall no matter alpine or sport because its easier on the person falling and I think on the gear thats holding the fall. I know when I'm climbing and whip I can tell the difference betwen a good belayer and bad.

Bolting wars do nothing but hurt the climbing community and it would be sad to see one starting n Alpental Valley. Caveman - From Climbing Mag: M7: Feels like 5.11+ rock climbing M8: Feels like 5.12, mostly drytooling severely overhanging rock. ice is usually spotty or detached. M9: Unconsolidated grade - can involve entire or many pitches of M8. M10: 5.13 drytooling. I haven't done much sport drytooling but for one would like to check those routes out in the near future. They look fun!

Yeah that thing, although there was nothing you could consider placing a screw in.

"Did you guys see the two purple slings and one blue sling we rapped off of in an ice bulge, or had it melted out already after two days?" Your slings were gone. I was looking for them but didn't see anything. During the afternoon most of ice on the climb was running with water or falling off. The initial gully had just a little ice left because it was in the shade. The snow on the climb had a surface crust with around 12 inches of mashed potatoes then another hard crust. "The couloir at the bottom was a lot of fun though, up to the lowest trees." This part of the climb was by far the best climbing on the route that we experienced up to our high point. Several thought provoking moves on ice and rock. I've climbed a lot of rock and a couple seasons of pure ice but I got to say after yesterday I have to do more mixed stuff like what was on the lower gully. Very exciting! Can't wait to go back to this climb in better conditions. For what we climbed, it was very good. Even though we didn't make the top it was very fun and a learning experience. Thanks Fleblebleb for a fun day.

Is the ice runnel above the guys shoulder/pack the top of the Eve Dearborn Mem route?

Beyond the obvious, I’m just trying to learn the peculiarities of the area.

Please let me know if there is something blatantly obvious that I'm not considering, but how can you do an onsite avy evaluation on terrain thats much different and much higher than the area in which your onsite evaluation is taking place. If there is a trick in that area, I've only been there once, for checking avy conditions on those climbs please fill me in. I'm not trying to be a dick just looking for some potentially useful information.

I talked to a local climber from Kamloops on Sunday. He mentioned that he hasn’t heard anything about Bridge yet but also mentioned he thought the avy conditions were pretty bad for whatever thats worth. I also forgot to thank the friendly Canadian police officer that gave me a ticket for going 115 km in a 90 zone on Highway 1.