TimL

I agree I think I would worry more about the crag falling down on top of me while climbing then my qd coming unclipped from the bolt.

1.) Jap Gardens & TPMV, Index 2.) Ptarmigan Traverse 3.) NW Corner NEWS 4.) North Ridge Stuart 5.) Colchuck - NBC

Thanks for sharing your story.

I've had several pieces fail on big falls, but I knew they were shit so it did not come as a surprise. THey were really just put in for psych protection more than anything else.

In the winter, train a couple days in a row at the gym, then rest a couple days. Pyramid your grades when training at the gym to take into account technical difficulty and gaining endurance. I do two training days in a row, 1 technical and 1 endurance. Focus on footwork. Make your you don't climb yourself into an injury. Find other people that are climbing at that grade and ask them how they train. Don't forget a soid cardio program on off days. Find a partner that is as psyched as you are! Figure out if you want to climb 5.12 or be a 5.12 climber. They are vastly different things. It will take a lot to go from 5.10 to 5.12, but its not like going to Mars. Don't forget to have fun, thats what its about anyways!

If they were talented, bold and gifted free climbers they would solve the problem without need of placing a bolt. Placing a bolt is this arena is an acts of ungifted cowards. Grow balls. Since it seems otherwise, they should save the route for others that are more talented and bolder, or future generations to solve the problem. Bolts have their place. Prussik and the Enchantments are not the place.

Thanks to everyone for all of the great route information. New Hampshire is such an amazing place to climb at during the Fall. We left Toronto late on Wednesday and pulled into the Cannon Cliff parking area late. Thursday we climbed Moby Grape and then tried to traverse over the top of the cliff to the left side so we could climb the Whitney Gilman as well. After some nasty bushwacking, we went back to the car. Friday drove over to Cathedral and climbed the Prow free with some good falls. Route is an a beautiful free climb. The palming/stemming corner to the roof crack on the second to last pitch was outstanding. Then climbed this route called Three Birches and Fun House. Saturday climbed at the Barber Wall which was in light mist and did Nutcracker and Lichens Delight. Nutcracker was short but super sustained and hard for the grade. Lichens Delight was amazing! Finished off the day early by climbing, They Died Laughing, in the rain. Sunday climbed ReconBeast with the Beast Flake variation. What can I say but another amazing route. Standard free climbing rack for both places. Expect Index like grades in terms of dificulty. The cliff is close to the road and all the climbs are very close so it is really easy to get a full day of climbing. Also, expect the standard East Coast crowds and line ups for routes. The entire place reminded me so much of Index.

Granted for me I'd rather get a good nights sleep to be strong for the next day of climbing. With that said, the Grasslands is all about free camping and that that leads to pretty much do as you please atmosphere. The chicks had no right to call the cops and if they didn't like what was going on, they should of moved. Sounds like they were being bitches.

Do we forget, CC.com is a service to the PNW climbing community. If you don't think so, don't pay attention to the site.

Ken, thanks ofr the beta. I'm not in Seattle right now, but thanks for the offer to let me borrow your guide to the area. How long would you say the approach is to the base of the cliff from the car? We are thinking of climbing hte VMC Direct Direct or Moby Grape and something else. Thanks!

OK all you East Coast transplants, I'm looking for information about climbing in New Hampshire around Cannon Cliff and Cathedral Ledge. Specifically, what are the recommended guide books for the areas? Are Cannon Cliff and Cathedral Ledge a fairly close drive to each other? Since I'm only going to be visiting the areas once for only four days, could I get recommendations for classic single and multi-pitch routes from 5.7 to 5.12-? I heard the Prow is awesome! Also, what are the best places to camp? Are there any free camping areas? Thank you for any and all information.

Are you going to get Nick climbing again?

Yo Raf - If I was in town, I'd climb with you! But I'm not. Somebody climb with this guy. He's motivated and will ensure that both parties will improve and have a good time at it. Maybe give rumr a shout out?

Circo De Gredos 8/31/04 – 9/02/04 Tuesday 8/31/04 No friggin way…..this can’t be happening. I’ve seen plenty of crazy approaches and funky stuff in the North Cascades of Washington in the United States, but the waiting for a herd of cows to cross the highway on the way to the Circo De Gredos in Central Spain was far more baffling than any of the approach cruxes I’ve experienced in North America. (The approach crux.) The chica and I decided to take a holiday from our holidays with her family in Spain. First on the list was an attempt at Naranjo Del Bulnes located in the Picos De Europa in Northern Spain. This idea fell right through the floor after the padre announced in the typical Spanish soft and non-direct manner that we were crazy, and there was no way we were going to take his car to the Picos de Europa. This left us scrambling for ideas. At the last minute we were able to find a book of the 100 best rock routes in Central Spain at the Desnivel book store in Madrid and decided to make the three hour drive from Madrid to the Circo De Gredos. Since we were staying at the alpine hut, we were able to carry light packs with just our cloths, climbing gear and lunch. I think I can really get into the European hut system. Breakfast and dinner supplied and clean beds. Not bad for an alpine rock holiday. (Elena on the approach.) (Cicro De Gredos) The three hour approach to the hut was easy on a very nice trail. We made a quick stop for lunch before dropping down into the circo and munched on some delicious bread and cheese that we picked up in one of the many small towns between Madrid and the Circo De Gredos. After dropping our stuff off at the hut we walked a short distance and knocked off a miserable three pitch route on the Refuge Wall. Thank God we were the only ones staying at the hut because we came back late and almost missed dinner, which would of caused me to loose my girlfriend, climbing partner and translator. (The Refuge Wall) Wednesday 9/1/04 The morning rolled around and breakfast was served at eight. Our goal for the day was to climb the Tres Hermanitos. The Tres Hermanitos (Three Brothers) are a cluster of spectacular granite spires locates high up in the circo. (Tres Hermanitos) The approach up the talus to the base of the spires took about an hour and a half. Once at the base, we racked up and started up the obvious gulley pitch to the Third Hermanito. (Elena on pitch 1 of the Third Hermanito in the shadows of the Second and Third Hermanitoes) The route of the Third Hermanito was easy Via Normal Route III+ D. (Elena starting the last pitch to the summit of the Third Hermanito) We quickly rapped down and traversed over to the Second Hermanito. The Second Hermanito was by far the better of the two climbs. The first pitch off the big ledge below the Third Hermanito started off with interesting face climbing to a huge ledge. The final pitch was very exciting and exposed moves through an overhanging prow on huge jugs with a final 15 foot au cheval. (Second Hermanito) (Elena on the final au cheval pitch of the Second Hermanito) The route up the Second Hermanito was a little more difficult than the first, but not hard by any means. We climbed the Second Hermanito via Normal AD IV+. From the top of the Second Hermanito, we quickly did one double rope rappel to the base then scrambled over for about forty-five meters to the base of the Third Hermanito. From the base of the Third Hermanito I set up a rappel through a chockstone and then we did a double rope rappel to our packs. We attempted the First Hermanito but after climbing one pitch and having troubles with finding the route, thickening dark clouds and the threat of returning to the hut late with no dinner forced certain retreat. At this point I must say how awesome it is to return to the hut after a long day in the mountains to good bread, hot food, wine and a warm bed. Thursday 9/2/04 Thursday, our final day in the Circo De Gredos, dawned with high wind, frigid cold and cloudy skies. Elena, being deprived from not having a siesta for the past two days, had problems waking up so we got a later than desired start. The goal for a short day in the hills before driving back to Madrid consisted of a group of rock needles called Agujas Rojas, or the Red Needles. The hike up to the needles from the hut took around an hour. The weather was threatening with dark clouds rolling in and pulling out but rained never materialized so we decided to continue to the base of the routes. (The Agujas Rojas.) Since the weather was still threatening, but not bad enough to not climb, we decided to start with an easier rout on Punta Cigan which is the prominent needle on the left. I have to say Elena was a real trooper. This was her second time climbing alpine rock and the conditions were far from the ideal sunny, social scene at the Gunks. (Elena approaching Punta Cigam) Punta Cigan has a variety of routes on it from around IV (5.6) to 7a(5.11c). Since it was super cold and windy, Elena wouldn’t budge on trying a more difficult route. We decided to climb the easier route, Higinios AD IV, in semi-alpine conditions. Higinios ascends the right hand side of the needle and typified an easy alpine climb that feature shattered rock and loose shit everywhere. (Elena climbing the second pitch of Higinios on Punta Cigan. You can see the hut as the small light green spec on the right hand side of the lake.) The climb is two long pitches up wandering terrain. As a note to anyone using this TR for beta, I avoided the offwidth, so my girlfriend wouldn’t hate me, and climbed a loose crack system to it’s right on the first pitch. As with the Hermanitos, I built a rappel station around a chock stone and rapped down the route of our ascent to the base and our packs. Once at the packs we had just enough time for one more route on the needles. The obvious dihedral on Punta Esther was calling our name. Espejismo Sonrosado AD IV follows a very obvious and beautiful dihedral for a full pitch bringing you about thirty meters from the summit. (Punta Esther) (Elena deciding she loves crack climbing) Espejismo Sonrosado was a really nice route with great climbing up a huge dihedral. The exit moves involved pulling a roof on huge jugs to the belay 20 meters below the summit. The descent from Punta Esther is super casual and just involves a little third class down climbing on the backside of the needle. The drive back to Madrid was rather casual. The only thing that I found surprising was the many BMW and Mercedes that were passing me like I was standing still and I was going 90 mph! In general, most of the routes in the Circo De Gredos are fun, short alpine rock climbs with approaches that would not make the average crag climber happy, but are just long enough for a good warm-up in the morning. From what I understand, it is a much better place to come in winter for ice, mixed and alpine climbing.

Hey MattP, I've heard great things aboout Bon Echo, but have never had the chance to climb in the area.

Did a plane full of dope crash into Stuart Lake?

Hey SL - I've been going in between Toronto and Seattle for the past six months or so. In my humble opinion, Toronto is a really nice city in which to live, but an asshole for climbing. If you get posted to Toronto, prepare for longer drives to get to decent climbing areas. The Adirondaks are 6-7 hours away. The Gunks, which are amazing, are 7-8 hours away. Cannon Cliff and Cathedral Ledge are about 9-10 hours away. The Red River Gorge in Kentucky is about 8-10 hours aways. In winter there is some ice climbing around in the 1-4 hour driving range with alot of the popular East Coast climbing destinations from 6-10 hours away. Specifically around Toronto, there are Limestone crags, Mt Nemo, Kelso & Milton in the 1-2 hour driving range. These crags are OK and offer a variety of limestone trad routes and harder bolted sport climbs. By far the best place in the general area is the the Lions Head vicinity. Amazing limestone pocket pulling with a cool ambiance down on Lake Ontario. By far the best place I've been to in the area. If you really like climbing and being outdoors, leave your job and find another in Vancouver. The only reason tha tI can stand it here is I know I'll be leaving the area for good at the beginning of the year. Toronto also has 3-4 climbing gyms. I've only been to one and its OK. Let me knowif you need any more beta. Tim

RIP Rodchester

I've donew the route a couple of times, and the upper pitches are always the ass kicker and I think are harder than the "crux" psychopath pitch. As Alex mentioned, P1 above PP is a very nice 5.9/10a pitch. P2 is a very nice and a little dirty 10c corner of Iconoclast. P3 can be done in several ways but starts from a bolt anchor, makes a leftward change from one corner system to the next, then goes further left to a headwall sort of thing. This is the place that has always confused me. You have two optoins: hard 5.11ish face climbing on the right or an easier dirty corner with iffy pro on the left. I'm not sure what the exact way is, but I've always face climbed on the right. After that pitch you can set up a belay by a tree, which is the only obvious belay spot. The next pitch is the Pressure Chamber pitch and is a fairly long pitch. It starts off with sustained 5.10 climbing up finger and thin hand cracks to a chimeny that spits you out below the final overhang which is rated 10d, but felt much harder. Pull the overhang in whatever style you can muster and belay above from a hanging belay. The next pitch is a 5.10-, very dirty pitch to the top or you can set up an intermediate belay. Very good a sustained climb. Have fun!

I agree to doing a couple of easier routes to get used to the rock and pro. The climbing is very different and protection is mostly good, but you can´t get a piece whenever you want, and typically there are longer run outs. I use a lot of small to medium cams. You won´t need much bigger than a yellow camalot. red and pink tri cams are the shizzle for the gunks.

Get the Gunks Select book by Dick Williams. Really, its hard to not find a good route at the gunks. the crux is waiting in line. Just about all the routes at the trapps are amazing. Must do routes are Madame G and High Exposure. Have fun.

Does it really matter which route it happened on? I´m glad nobody died. Hope both guy recover soon. To me the matter is about personal responsibility. Unfortunately, this cat paid the price for his actions. Wearing a helmet is neither wrong or right and judging people on if they wear a helmet or not is just plain stupid.

Hey Richard - I climbed Senseless Thoughts of Paronia on the Upper Index Town Wall a couple years ago. I heard you are living in Spain right now. I am in Madrid right now and have a couple questions about climbing in the area and in the Picos De Europa. Shoot me an email at Lucky14956 at aol.com. Tim

I know of at least one party that climbed the route on SEWS if not a couple more.

Since I have not climbed in the Cascades for the past couple of months, I have no idea of the conditions. but A couple that fall alpine ice climbs that come to mind are NE Face of Eldo (easy), NF of Observation Rock (easy solo), NF of Shuksan, Roman Headwall on Baker, Price glacier on Shuksan. I´ll be back in the Cascades around the end of September to mid October and seriously interested in getting out into the mountians to do some of these climbs if anyone is interested.