TimL

Why would you even think of adding a bolt to an existing route, yet a super classic route. The full route protects fine. The pro might be a little spaced out above the v slot, but if you can do the lower sections, the roof should be cake. If I remember correctly the roof protects with anit and you have to make sure to sling it so rope drag won´t yank it out. Then you might get an RP or a small nut up high.

Most climbs are 6 to 9 pitches. The area is very nice in the sense it is traditional. Not many bolts to be found. Juan - Dread will come later in winter, there are a lot of cool alpine routes in the gullies, also I´ll be visiting the Alps.

Climb: Los Galayos, Spain-Torreon, Punta Maria Luisa, Pequeno Galayo Date of Climb: 8/2/2005 Trip Report: Los Galayos is a spectacular alpine granite climbing area outside of Madrid. There are over a hundred different spires to climb with routes ranging fron 5.0 to 5.13c. I´m not big on writting super involved TR´s, so here are some photos. The approach. Spain alpine style. One thing that I learned quickly here is that people eat well. I have always learned to pack light, but having dinner in the refugio consisting of freeze dried pasta gave me many bad looks from the Spainards, especially from the chica. One guy said, ¨we eat good here.¨ And that is true. the huge packs I see people hiking up with are full of a small thin rope, small rack, bread, steaks, lettuce, muffins, milk.... The welcoming crew. Los Galayos. The Torreon is the Spire in the middle. Elena on the first 5.8 pitch on the Grand Dihedral on Punta Maria Luisa. Me on the 5.10d Grand Dihidral The Pequeno Galayo. Elena leading the crux pitch on the Pequeno Galayo. Me leading the super big chimeny OW on the Geronimo Lopez Dihidral, Pequeno Galayo. Helicopter Rescue of a climber that broke his ankle several pitches up one of the spires. The refugio. Gear Notes: Standard rack to 3. Approach Notes: A long way from the Cascades. About 2 hours drive from Madrid.

Black Peak is a day climb, and maybe a half day if you are moving really fast. Ptarmigan traverse comes to mind but you might have problems with the car issue.

Index is a special place that has not gone the way of Exit 38. Minor variations or tr problems should be left as they are. Old bolts should be replaced and brought back to current standards, but if you are going to drill new bolts, then clean up the old rusty bolts. One route that I have a problem with is the bolted route to the left of Princely Ambitions. Dwarf something.... I´ve always thought that it is a squeze job and weaves in and out of the aid line. i talked to one of the guys who put it up while I was in J Tree and he sounded upset when I mentioned that it was a a bit forced. In my opinion, it should be erased. Same with the abandoned project to the right of Jap Gardens. On the other hand, I think a good example of a new, semi bolted route is STP on the UTW just to the right of the top of the third pitch on Davis Holland.

To add to that, anyone know about ice climbing in the alps in winter and winter alpiine routes that are moderate? I plan on going there this coming winter. Anybody know of good guidebooks for Alps alpine routes and ice routes? Possibly in English?

Gracias por la informacion! España es muy buena. Pero hace calor! Hemos ido a Patones. Ese fin de semana nosotros vamos a La Cabrera y el proximo fin de semana vamos a Galayos. Echo de menos la nieve y las montañas de las Caascades.

For sure the 2nd pitch of Davis Holland for 10a! When I think of a lot of PNW roock climbing I tend to think of short cruxes followed by much less sustained climbing or good rests. It doesn´t have the suustained nature of Yosemite.

Rumr...do you ever worth? Bench marks for the NW trad cliimbs....I´d call Godzilla a benchmark 5.9+, Moonshile Dihedral 5.9, Slow Children 5.10d, GNS 5.6, Clean Crack 11b, Jap Gardens 11c, GM p1 or Lions Chair 5.8, Split pilar 10b, Easter Overhang 10c, Meat Grinderr or Heart of the Country 10a, Clay 11d. I,m having problems thinkiing of a good 11a benchmark.....

the Leavenworth mafia...this could be a sequal to Good Guys.

wow, sounds like the little birdy flew up your ass and your a little upset. Take a breath, it´s a joke...no need to be so serious. Besides, it would be a seriously expensive plane ticket to come and pitch me in the talus.

It has been a great 8 years climbing in the Pacific Northwest, but like all good things, it has to come to an end. After much hard thought, the chica and I decided that Spain would be the best place to live at this time. The people are what make a place special and there are tons of great follks in the climbing community. It has been awesome over the years meeting and climbing with a number of folks on and off this site. I have too say thanks to all the people I´ve shared a rope with over the years especially Fred Rogers, Alex and JJA. If anyone makes it over this way, feel free to PM me for beta and if you guys want trip reports from a different area, I have no problems posting them. The Cascades are an awesome place and I´ll be back from time to time climbing, as well as I´ll still spray on this site. Cheers, Tim

racial slurs and bird lovers. as cc.com turns what's next............snafflehound seduction...... certainly i hope no one harms the little birdies, but we are going to have to toss the nest when the little ones fly away, and while they are there, we will just have to climb around them.

And if it is early season, bring boots on the climb for the descent and walking across snow. Depending your comfort on snow, you might want an ice axe.

The 5.7 section is a slab and alll you really need is one sling to protect it to clip a pin. I believe you can back the pin up with something, then you can get a small, maybe orange TCU in after the crux. You could bring for a rack singles from the blue TCU to a #3 camalot and a small sets of nuts and bring a lot of slings. You certainly could bring less and be fine depending on your comfort, but the above rack should be good for climb and setting up anchors.

whatever.....ha ha, I don't like birds.

Last Thursday I had the same experience on Jap Gardens. I also believe there is a nest on Godzilla. I'm not much of a nature freak, or an animal lover, so I would say climb the route anyways, as I did, and let the bird get pissed off. Maybe even give those small little birds an an early flying exam. It would be better to have less flying rats. On another note, the upper of the two rocks in the big upper section was really loose and I almost pulled it out. After a tug and a couple of pounds, I did secure it much better, but beware it is and I think always has been, a little loose.

Not a super OW but Easter Overhang was nice, as with some others at Midnight that look good. Damnation Crack.....

Thanks D!

What type of rack would you reccomend for this route considering you might solo it? How is it rapping the route. Anything special to consider?

Hey John, I think I can make it work. I'll shoot you an email.

I would call some of those routes, Dogleg, Angel Crack and Libra test pieces for the grade, but not sandbagged. Especially Libra and Angel are so short that is hard to warrent grading them any harder. If they were longer or at Squamish it wold be a different story.

Has Anybody been there in the last week or so? How are the conditons? Where is the snow level? What is it like heading up to Sahale from Cascade Pass? Thanks

A couple years ago in fall on a dry year a couple guys did the route. I think it was pretty broken but its doable. This might be the right time of year to do it. If I remember correctly, there should be enough room around the col to camp. If not there will be room on the Dome Glacier.

I would like to say that I did it on TR cause I did not have wide gear. I would like to go back and lead it with wide gear. The lower face moves felt harder. The upper wide crack is just technique and really bomber once you figure it out. I am very comfortable saying it is 10a. It didn't feel that much harder than Moby Dick at the base of El Cap. The OW on Moby Dick is 5.8 or 5.9 4-6 inches for a long way with a 5.10 finger crack crux at the bottom. Carnival Crack felt a little harder than Moby Dick, but by far not nearly as long. A lot of it has to do with wide crack technique. The day before I did CC we did Hyperspace and the 10d Pressure Chamber killed me. I free climbed a little bit of th PC but aided a lot of it. It felt 10d or harder. Granted on any OW like Moby Dick or Carnival Crack I've pulled way harder and expanded uch more effort than say a 5.12 or harder sport climb.