TimL

I thought you were in Yosemite old man.....

All I have to say is the early bird gets the worm. You should be smart enough to know that if you try to jump on one of the most classic, moderate routes in Washington on a weekend then unless you wake up at the crack of dawn you'll be behind a lot of people and some that will be slow. Maybe if your cool then you can pass, but I would not expect it. I hate to be behind slow parties as well, but just wait until you are the slow ones then you will understand.

Hey thanks for the offer TLG. Have a partner for Saturday and Sunday. Looking for a partner for Monday/Tuesday. Can leave Sunday evening. I don't have much of an interest in going to Squamish for moderate long routes or cragging since I've done a lot of cragging there and most of the long moderate routes. I'm leaving the NW for good in a week or so and would like to tick one or to of my projects at Squish like Freeway, Daily Planet and the Left Side of the Splt to be accurate. I have no probelm leading all crux pitches. On the other hand, I wouldn't mind doing some easier alpine as it would be nice to be in the mountains. PM if interested.

still looking

thank god

What happened to the BBQ in Mazama? That place is so good!

The West Side variation to the Monkey Face is really nice and goes at 5.8, maybe 2 pitches until it meets up witht he regular route. If you want to aid, it is not a bad route to start, but the jugging does suck, but I really don't know that much jugging that is super good. Not many aid oitches are straight up and down so I guess you have to learn some place. It is actually much easier to pull on draws as you do not have to carry all of the aid gear with you. But that depends on your intentions. The last pitch you can go straight up on a bolt ladder or do a really nice 5.7/5.8 bolted traversing pitch that is super airy and really fun. With both variations it is a great route!

hey thanks TLG, your not so bad yourself

Looking for a partner to climb in the mountians if the weather is good and cragging at Smith or Leavenworth if the weather is shitty. I'm into doing snow/ice, if there is any left, or alpine rock. Squamish could be an option but I'd only go up there for select routes. PM me if interested.

Sweet. I have to go back to the states during that time, but keep me informed about when you think you'll be there.

A dawg, I'd love to head up there soon, the only problem is I have this weekend to climb with the chica in the mountains hopefully. Next weekend, Mem Day the chica goes to Spain and I have a 4 day weekend to climb something...hint.....I'm looking for a climbing parner...then the Friday after that I leave for Spain...hint your welcome to come over for vacation.

Anybody have an idea of what its like in the Liberty Bell Group? Much snow on the approach to the backside and in the gullies?

Prussik, Boxtop, Monument...stuff on Temple Ridge.

Anybody have an idea of what it is like up there now in terms of snow and hiking or climbing conditions. I havn't been around for the past couple of months so I have no clue what its like in the mountains. Thanks for any and all beta!

The flood was not that bad, but the weather has been really bad for the past couple of weeks.

Looking at buying a tent soon and I wanted to hear peoples opinions on a 4 season 3 person tents. Basically let me know what you like, love and hate. Thanks for any and all information.

I'd have to say keeping my skin on my hands here at J -Tree. Man this rock is frigin sharp.

So very true. Check your PM's.

Granted this is just my opinion, but a FFA yo-yoing is not valid. I would consider having the gear in place and clipping it on the way up better than yo-yo style. Consider Heinous Climb at Smith. I could clip all the bolts past the crux, come down and climb through everything on TR then clip the last bolt. Frankly, most of it is a TR rehearsal. In reality, I don't care how most people do their business, but to claim a FFA on something you did not do willingly thrusts yourself into the limelight. When you put yourself in that limeliht, then all is fair game, including your style.

This discussion is interesting. If the above story is true about Todd S, then it really sounds like he did not free the route. IMHO - If he did TR 90 feet of the route, then stepped to the right and finished on the 10c of GZ, he did not do the FFA route. There are many things that can happen on the last 15 "easy" feet. I know that I've been stymied on the last 15 feet of easy climbing on harder routes. City Park is an obvious line. It starts at the top of the bolt ladder and goes all the way to the chains. Stepping to the right is a variation. Climbng the first 90 feet on TR is not leading the route. I would say leading the route with gear in place is more aceptable then this. Given the rise in climbing standards, I would say the FFA is valid with the leader starting with the crack above the bolts and finishing on the direct line at the anchors, placing gear. Pretty simple. If Skinner or anybody else has yet to do this, then this is still an open project. It would be great to get his first hand account on exactly how he did it. It he really did free the route, then he should not have a problem in coming out and saying how he climbed it. Another question, has he ever written an account or a story about this climb or is all the information second hand? Things seem a little weird here.

You might ty Wallstein and Rumr. I heard rumors about both of them giving mighty efforts. I tried to tr it today, but after the first 15 feet of the crack, it got way too hard.

After flying in last night and seeing that there is not much snow, I'm kind of up in the air about climbing conditions in the Cascades. I've never seen a snow year this bad. So after all of this sun, what are the conditions like? Was thinking about going on a day climb tomorrow to stretch the legs, but I'm not sure what to go for. Given the conditons, anyone have some suggestions? I was thinking about Chair Peak or Whitehorse, but the lack of snow in the Sno Pass area looks terrible. Also, what are the avy conditions like in general terms? Thanks!

Anyone know what is the best guidebook for the area? I've seen several. Also, are there any good free routes around the area? Granted I know Moonlight Buttress is free, but I was thinking of things of little easier.

Sweet! Hope to see you there!

Are there any good free bivy spots in or around Zion. I heard the campground sucks and is expensive. We might be there around the end of March to the beginning of April.