TimL

I guess people could be a solid single pitch 5.9 leader, but throw in some exposure and route finding and they move slow as snails. Happens to everybody as some point.

You cold knock off a bunch of good, harder crack routes at Midnight. But....Midnight is closed right now I believe, I was at Castle yesterday and I thought I saw raptor signs and I did hear a screech from one of those f*%king birds. Peter - You forgot to add Easter Overhang. I thought it was super good. Same thing with WASP and the one next to it. I think Midnight Rock, next to the Lower Town Wall at Index, is one of the best and highly concentrated crack climbing areas in Washington.

remeber A Dawg, we did Carnival Crack the day afterHS and I was really tired, but I still felt it was 10a. HS is a good route with nice hard pitches stacked on top of each other which is not common for that area, so in terms of relating it to climbs in the area it is good, but if you compare it to other areas it is slightly above the average IMHO.

or wash away all the asshole rangers

I'll be the only one to say it : there is better climbing elswhere. like Index?

The route is good. I've done it a couple of times. Every pitch is good climibng. I think you can combine the first two pitches to the base of the 11a with some rope drag. The 11a "crux" 3rd pitch is not that bad. The 4th 10a pitch is nice and straight forward. The 5th 10c pitch is nice. The 6th 10c pitch is good, but then you have to switch corner systems to the left and your faced with climibng a hard looking face on the right, which I thought was mid 5.11, or a dirty corner on the left which I have never done. this brings you to a belay at a tree and the base of the "Pressure Chamber" which is 10d but super friggin hard for the grade and I would say is is a sandbag. The Pressure Chanmer pitch looks shorts, but conserve your gear lower down because it is a long pitch and the belay at the top takes small to mid size gear. The next pitch is 10- and is dirty. I think we brought a rack of doubles to 2 o 3 with one 4. I think the 4 was not needed. The pressure chamber takes small to medium gear. Use 60 meter ropes and bring lots of slings and draws.

the lycra is in the mail

I thought you were in Yosemite old man.....

All I have to say is the early bird gets the worm. You should be smart enough to know that if you try to jump on one of the most classic, moderate routes in Washington on a weekend then unless you wake up at the crack of dawn you'll be behind a lot of people and some that will be slow. Maybe if your cool then you can pass, but I would not expect it. I hate to be behind slow parties as well, but just wait until you are the slow ones then you will understand.

Hey thanks for the offer TLG. Have a partner for Saturday and Sunday. Looking for a partner for Monday/Tuesday. Can leave Sunday evening. I don't have much of an interest in going to Squamish for moderate long routes or cragging since I've done a lot of cragging there and most of the long moderate routes. I'm leaving the NW for good in a week or so and would like to tick one or to of my projects at Squish like Freeway, Daily Planet and the Left Side of the Splt to be accurate. I have no probelm leading all crux pitches. On the other hand, I wouldn't mind doing some easier alpine as it would be nice to be in the mountains. PM if interested.

still looking

thank god

What happened to the BBQ in Mazama? That place is so good!

The West Side variation to the Monkey Face is really nice and goes at 5.8, maybe 2 pitches until it meets up witht he regular route. If you want to aid, it is not a bad route to start, but the jugging does suck, but I really don't know that much jugging that is super good. Not many aid oitches are straight up and down so I guess you have to learn some place. It is actually much easier to pull on draws as you do not have to carry all of the aid gear with you. But that depends on your intentions. The last pitch you can go straight up on a bolt ladder or do a really nice 5.7/5.8 bolted traversing pitch that is super airy and really fun. With both variations it is a great route!

hey thanks TLG, your not so bad yourself

Looking for a partner to climb in the mountians if the weather is good and cragging at Smith or Leavenworth if the weather is shitty. I'm into doing snow/ice, if there is any left, or alpine rock. Squamish could be an option but I'd only go up there for select routes. PM me if interested.

Sweet. I have to go back to the states during that time, but keep me informed about when you think you'll be there.

A dawg, I'd love to head up there soon, the only problem is I have this weekend to climb with the chica in the mountains hopefully. Next weekend, Mem Day the chica goes to Spain and I have a 4 day weekend to climb something...hint.....I'm looking for a climbing parner...then the Friday after that I leave for Spain...hint your welcome to come over for vacation.

Anybody have an idea of what its like in the Liberty Bell Group? Much snow on the approach to the backside and in the gullies?

Prussik, Boxtop, Monument...stuff on Temple Ridge.

Anybody have an idea of what it is like up there now in terms of snow and hiking or climbing conditions. I havn't been around for the past couple of months so I have no clue what its like in the mountains. Thanks for any and all beta!

The flood was not that bad, but the weather has been really bad for the past couple of weeks.

Looking at buying a tent soon and I wanted to hear peoples opinions on a 4 season 3 person tents. Basically let me know what you like, love and hate. Thanks for any and all information.

I'd have to say keeping my skin on my hands here at J -Tree. Man this rock is frigin sharp.

So very true. Check your PM's.