TimL

...and there is Sagitarius at Index which overs a little offwidth and a little chimney in one hard, kinda scary pitch. and the Becky route on Liberty Bell has an easy chimney.

Easy chimneys that come to mind would be the Fault at lower Castle Rock and Midway at upper Castle. You can also go up to Puck Rock and TR Shot Down in flames which is a 5.8/10a offwidth to four inches and is really good plus its a super cool place to hang out.

Didn't Wayne do something over there as well? Is this a FA of a new route or just a variation to the NE Ridge?

Did you find a #4 cam at teh base of the 8 inch crack? I managed to fix my buddies cam there last fall. Nice TR.

Thompson is a good climb. The rock is OK, and the gear is good. Typical of an alpine climb you can't place a piece everywhere but its not like you are soloing pitches. The rock is sharp and I thought a little slick, but if anything its very compact. Note to take the Commonwealth Basin trail and gain access to the PCT in the basin. This will save a lot of time and miles switch backing up the PCT. Have fun.

I once heard a guide in the Canadian Rockies say that climbing in the rockies is like climbing overhanging talus, always push not pull.

E Wilmans Spire has some choss. The approach to Assinaboine had enough choss that it turned me around.

If I rememeber correctly, you can rap the route either from the top of the first bolt ladder or the pitch before it. After that the route wonders enoouth that you would have to leave gear. After you get past the second bolt ladder, the route goes much quicker.

Thanks Ken. Coming back to Washington and the Cascades tomorrow but I'll be back climbing in the Gunks this fall and I'll make sure to do the route.

I've seen those big waterfalls as well. Looks like they would be good if they froze, but there are some serious avy paths back there. Th Gunks only seem to get better. This was the first weekend in many years that I haven't climbed anything harder than 5.6 but had tons of fun doing it. I think I like the Gunks as much as Index. The GF and I did Minty, Hawk, Beginners Delight, Baby, Horseman and Sixish. Never thought I would climb a 5.3 were you pull over a full on roof!

I've seen those big waterfalls as well. Looks like they would be good if they froze, but there are some serious avy paths back there. THe Gunks only seem to get better. This was the first weekend in many years that I haven't climbed anything harder than 5.6 but had tonsof fun doing it. I think I like the Gunks as much as Index. The GF and I did Minty, Hawk, Beginners Delight, Baby, Horseman, Sixish. Never thought I would climb a 5.3 were you pull over a full on roof!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?m=39144 Wow

no, but I've placed a make shift webing stopper on a stupid mixed climb that I thought was entirely bolted. I think it would of worked.

Trojans - you know how the story goes Purple 0 TCU - first time I ever fell on a piece of gear, Angel Crack. Blue 1 TCU - can't tell you how many times I've taken wingers on this piece. # 3 HB offset cut down a huge solo aiding fall down to a managable fall Seems like if it a piece bigger than a orange TCU, then there is no reason to fall

I've used both the Camps and the Stubai. I liked the Camps better. I believe Pro Mountain Sports sells them. I bought the Stubais, and since have not had any problems at all, because PMS was out of the Camps.

Damn dude are you living out there now, weren't you just there a little while back? Have fun miss, I miss that area. Gunks=the ultimate trad cragging area. I've been lucky enough to climb a fair amount in the Cascades, Yosemite and the Gunks over the last couple of months. Gunks this weekend, Cascades next couple of weeks, then by the fall I'll be back in Toronto and not coming back to the Cascades for a long time which is both good and bad. BTW - Over the next couple of weeks if I'm doing any contract work, I'll be looking for partners and seriously into getting some shit done in the Cascades!

like I've always said , latin women will be the end of me

GUNKS

At Penny Lane there is a couple super good 10d/11a finger cracks. I think they are Climb and Punishment 10d and Partners in Crime 11a.

BP - I'll be back in a week from today and will be seriously ready to send some shizzle. I've got plenty of ideas. PM me. Cheers, T

sweet

Climbed some nice short, loose limestone this weekend. I'm amazed at how soft limestone can be. Kinda scary but exciting.

Awesome! What route was that? Was it this past Tuesday?

Both of those routes have to be a couple of my all time favorite routes. THey are just so dam good. It took me so many times to send Jap Gardens, but its just such a good route it doesn't matter. Fred Rogers would have to be the one to ask about marathon belay sessions on Iron Horse.

Mythos