TimL

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Partner found. Thanks for the save JJA.

Climbing partner bailed, unbailed, then rebailed. PM me if you want to climb at WA Pass. I'd also be into other stuff. I'll ropegun. Just make sure your competent and can follow fast 5.10- in the mountains.

tape your ankle....I'll ropegun really, thats a bummer about your ankle

That sucks Ken. I'd be into doing Chianti and Clean Break, but up for other things as well, although I'd like to get the best bang for the buck and WA PAsss sounds money!

My partner had to bail for good reasons, so looking to do something in the mountains. Was thinking of something like Clean Break and Chianti, or a long rock ridge traverse or something snowy/icy, but I'm open to anything. I could maybe take Tuesday off as well. PM me if interested.

Pete, I know pad people are a lower form of life then alpinist, but Distel is an alright kid....maybe even some day with the right guidance, he can become a proper alpine climber....

WTF - Slappyhappy asked a legit question. When did it become a rule that you have to be nice all the time. Certainly confrontation adds a little spice to life. Frankly, if your going to moderate a question, even if its not in the tone, then you should moderate the spray reports that are recorded in this forum?

its a bit of a walk, 20 miles or so, to break her into mountaineering. Plus, I think the route has a 5.9 OW I think. With all that in mind, you might be walking out alone.

...and there is Sagitarius at Index which overs a little offwidth and a little chimney in one hard, kinda scary pitch. and the Becky route on Liberty Bell has an easy chimney.

Easy chimneys that come to mind would be the Fault at lower Castle Rock and Midway at upper Castle. You can also go up to Puck Rock and TR Shot Down in flames which is a 5.8/10a offwidth to four inches and is really good plus its a super cool place to hang out.

Didn't Wayne do something over there as well? Is this a FA of a new route or just a variation to the NE Ridge?

Did you find a #4 cam at teh base of the 8 inch crack? I managed to fix my buddies cam there last fall. Nice TR.

Thompson is a good climb. The rock is OK, and the gear is good. Typical of an alpine climb you can't place a piece everywhere but its not like you are soloing pitches. The rock is sharp and I thought a little slick, but if anything its very compact. Note to take the Commonwealth Basin trail and gain access to the PCT in the basin. This will save a lot of time and miles switch backing up the PCT. Have fun.

I once heard a guide in the Canadian Rockies say that climbing in the rockies is like climbing overhanging talus, always push not pull.

E Wilmans Spire has some choss. The approach to Assinaboine had enough choss that it turned me around.

If I rememeber correctly, you can rap the route either from the top of the first bolt ladder or the pitch before it. After that the route wonders enoouth that you would have to leave gear. After you get past the second bolt ladder, the route goes much quicker.

Thanks Ken. Coming back to Washington and the Cascades tomorrow but I'll be back climbing in the Gunks this fall and I'll make sure to do the route.

I've seen those big waterfalls as well. Looks like they would be good if they froze, but there are some serious avy paths back there. Th Gunks only seem to get better. This was the first weekend in many years that I haven't climbed anything harder than 5.6 but had tons of fun doing it. I think I like the Gunks as much as Index. The GF and I did Minty, Hawk, Beginners Delight, Baby, Horseman and Sixish. Never thought I would climb a 5.3 were you pull over a full on roof!

I've seen those big waterfalls as well. Looks like they would be good if they froze, but there are some serious avy paths back there. THe Gunks only seem to get better. This was the first weekend in many years that I haven't climbed anything harder than 5.6 but had tonsof fun doing it. I think I like the Gunks as much as Index. The GF and I did Minty, Hawk, Beginners Delight, Baby, Horseman, Sixish. Never thought I would climb a 5.3 were you pull over a full on roof!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?m=39144 Wow

no, but I've placed a make shift webing stopper on a stupid mixed climb that I thought was entirely bolted. I think it would of worked.

Trojans - you know how the story goes Purple 0 TCU - first time I ever fell on a piece of gear, Angel Crack. Blue 1 TCU - can't tell you how many times I've taken wingers on this piece. # 3 HB offset cut down a huge solo aiding fall down to a managable fall Seems like if it a piece bigger than a orange TCU, then there is no reason to fall

I've used both the Camps and the Stubai. I liked the Camps better. I believe Pro Mountain Sports sells them. I bought the Stubais, and since have not had any problems at all, because PMS was out of the Camps.