wdietsch

Besides Yates and Metolius who else makes the ladder style?

Only for you Will ... Peter Croft a Rap Bolter? Now, far be it from me to question the competency of one of today’s elite, but the photo of Peter Croft on the Incredible Hulk’s Airstream {Hot Flashes, October 2004] makes me wonder if we are really prepared to attempt the routes that are being pushed today. Unless my eyes deceive me, there is a beautiful, continuous, albeit thin crack between Mr. Croft’s legs akimbo. Yet, the rope passes not through desperately placed protection in these small wire havens but through a series of - let me venture to guess - rap-placed bolts. Okay, I am an old-school old fart who ripped his milkman pants back in the days when camp 4 still had drive-in parking and lived through the disco era of Lycra (for my part, I do apologize … what were we thinking?!), but if anyone dared to produce a route involving excessive or unneeded bolts, well, Royal and his vertical police took care of things. Why not let the “unclimbable by today’s standards” wait until tomorrow’s gifted develop the skills to lead and place protection regardless of the difficulty? - Named deleted Lake Oswego, OR Peter Croft Responds: Deleted Name: To begin with, it’s fine by me if you question my competency. I do it all the time. The crack you describe, however, is nonexistent. This pitch and the one above are the blankest corners I have seen anywhere. I couldn’t find a single place for tiny wires, tied off blades or even a RURP. And the wild guess you ventured regarding rap bolts was most certainly wild. I belayed Dave Nettle as he bolted both pitches on lead -a burly effort. I understand your viewpoint but pictures can be misleading. I do, however take offense at your admitting - in a family oriented publication such as this - to wearing Lycra. My God man, it’s like admitting to cross-dressing at the Republican convention. Yes indeed, what were you thinking?

maybe if you were a 3 foot tall midget ... this blows I'd like to see who ever put this up go try one of the runouts on the Martian Slab

likewise for equalizing two pieces of gear I love'm ... always carry a couple

Happen to stumble on to this today ... indoor comps, but a pretty cool dyno stick ... as well as some wild looking tools Kandersteg 2005

you need to read the letter .... route in question was bolted on lead as he explains in he's rebuttle to a letter to the editor assuming the rap-bolt

derek hershey on top .... how about a Sheaf's stout

ed webster

negative .... rock fall potential equall if not greater, particually during the traverse above the north Mowich .... that being said the Ptarmigan ranks as my all time favorite route on Rainier

TG .. Mr & Mrs Winter ... thanks again on a job well done. Thanks as well to all who shared slides, bs, general conversation, et all .... I think I sprained my elbow trying to work the tap ... Ivan, wish I would have been able to stay longer to see your presentation.

I have the uninsulated Nepal Tops not the insulated Extreme .. these Nepal EVO qtx's look pretty sweet as well. Haven't seen them for sale in the states yet

Yeah, I have been eyeing those. I bitch when I have to pay 99 cents for a sniker bar, but I have no problem throwing down money for climbing. When it comes to climbing, cost is no object. I have a pair of older Nepal Tops ... they but they are not that warm for winter outings ... check out these bad boys ... Trango Extreme evo gtx

Just down the street from the Ventura retail store is Real Cheap Sports, kind of a Patagonia factory outlet ... even better deals on Puff Jackets ... $88.50 however they only have Black or Loden, Large and X-Large Real Cheap Sports

LMAO

Definitly not as good as a real bivi sack but I've done it on several occasions both planned and unplanned ... really not that bad. Pair it with a hip length shell and it works pretty good. I'm 6'0" and the Chernobyl bivi sleeve comes up over the top of my hip bones.

Did you have your reciept? If so that just plain blows.

Ivan ... I've got an old pair of Ramer MT2000 bindings you can have

talk to Texplorer

Cold Cold World I have a Chernobyl and really like it ... I have never had much of the "helmet" issue others speak of and I have .... well a "high profile noggin" topped off with an Edelrid Ultralight brain bucket, nothing low profile about it. My pack is an older version than what is made today ... perhaps the geometry has changed a little I just went to Wild Things website, look like it just got an overhaul. Is the Ice Sac really $270 now ... WTF. I see they also have a new smaller version of the Ice Sac called the Ricesac ... shit it's still $250 Wild Things Ricesac If I were to do it again I'd stick with CCW and save the 100 bones ... shit that half the cost of a good tool ... a set of skins ... 2 C4 Camalots

gee a little sensitive there Dru? If it matters, given the choice, I'd rather live in Canada than LA County

Take the Monster to a separte thread... the man asked about Taa-K-oon's

glad you are alright ... when I first saw this post go up last week I thought about you guys but was not sure ...

look for models that have an actual "nose rest" (not sure what you call the gizmo that rests on the bridge of your nose) a buddy of mine, using a really cheap model, where the edge of the lens lays directly on your nose, ended up with a very nasty cut from the impact