wdietsch

use "tie off" or "hero" loops

Alex ..... if you are looking for some decent cheap screws ... take a look at these ... Black Diamond Tubular Screws @ REI-Outlet.com for $17.93 (10, 13 and 22 cm)

thanks Dave but don't need the hammer, and to clarify I am not looking for an "Zero-X" type tool .... If you are having a problems finding picks, Marmot-Bellevue used to have some and last time I was in Salt Lake you could still buy them at the BD store. Last week an un-used pair (one hammer, one axe w/ 2 classic and 2 recurve picks) of Zero-X tools sold on ebay for $250+. The X-15's hit the market right about the same time as the Chouinard /BD employee buyout went down and they originally hit the market with "Chouinard" in the casting. The 55cm with the Alaska pick was my favorite alpine tool setup. I don't know what's hurts more .... my shins from the slide alder or my forehead from continuously beating it against my desk. As far as someone finding it and getting it back ... well that would be great (not holding breath) .... but it they find it where I think I lost it you'd have to be a pretty stupid fucker for being there in the first place. thanks for the help gents ... I called Second Ascent (thanks Rodchester) and they do have a couple close to what I am looking for, but they want like $80 ... anyone know how much these guys are willing to bargin? Any secret password to get "the deal"? .... any names I can drop? thanks ...... wes

sounds like the two dudes TG, RBW1966 and I chatted with @ the Boston Basin trailhead ... they mentioned heading to SCW or Prusik ... driving a diesel Dodge 2500 xtra cab .... if so I wouldn't say they got "weathered off" (at our recomendation, the two we talked with never made it out of the parking lot) as for ourselves, well it was wet .... very wet ..... see TG's post above

got a phone number or website? .... I could be up that way in the next few weeks or so ...

don't blame ya'

..... somewhere between Gilbert Creek and Boston Creek

A recent act of stupidity during a very unsavory North Cascades bushwack has left me without a long time companion that I wish to replace if possible. I am looking for one of the original Chouinard or Black Diamond X-15 Axes with the plain carbon fiber/fiberglass over aluminum shafts .... no bonded rubber or BRS as they were known

Yo Jon and Tim .... I know that this subject has been touched on before but my site search ended up fruitless .... anyway that PM's could be set up with a "cc" function for multiple people in our address books? Keep up the good work, Wes

worked for Mexico in the 70-80's

bush just appointed him head of the EPA President Bush Picks Utah Gov. Mike Leavitt, an Advocate of State Regulatory Power, to Head EPA AP News Back to News President Bush Picks Utah Gov. Mike Leavitt, an Advocate of State Regulatory Power, to Head EPA 8/11/03 10:09PM By JOHN HEILPRIN, Associated Press Writer President Bush has picked Utah Gov. Mike Leavitt, an advocate of shifting environmental regulation to the states, to become head of the Environmental Protection Agency, a senior administration official said Monday. Leavitt, a three-term Republican governor, would succeed Christie Whitman, a former New Jersey governor who held the post of EPA administrator for the first 2 1/2 years of the administration before resigning in May. The EPA post has been a lightning rod for critics of the administration's environmental policies. Bush, on a Western trip to talk about timber policies and wildfires, was expected to announce Leavitt's nomination late Monday. Leavitt, 52, has championed the idea of increasing environmental cooperation among federal, state and local officials. Over the objections of environmentalists, he advocated a major highway extension through wetlands near the Great Salt Lake. The 10th Circuit U.S. Court of Appeals halted the project, saying the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers did not pay enough attention to wildlife or look at alternatives before approving it. As governor, Leavitt has made several environmental arrangements with the Bush administration, most recently settling a long-standing dispute over ownership of roads across federal land. He has also negotiated several exchanges of state and federal land, some of them questioned by Interior Department auditors. Administration officials described Leavitt, the nation's longest serving governor, as a leader on environmental issues with a record of improving air and water and conserving land. He has been co-chair of the Western Regional Air Partnership, and officials said he was instrumental in bringing together states, tribes, environmentalists and industry to address the problem of brown haze over the Grand Canyon. Leavitt also oversaw his state's preparations for and hosting of the 2002 Winter Olympics, and since then has served on a presidentially appointed advisory committee on homeland security. As Utah's governor, he has fought against plans to build a temporary storage facility for high-level nuclear waste on an Indian reservation in western Utah. The state is also home to a biological test site, a chemical weapons incinerator, a low-level nuclear waste dump and a company that is one of the nation's largest air polluters. In 1995, Leavitt called a growth summit to deal with Utah's booming population and economy. The meeting resulted in calls for local-based, free-market approaches to preserving open space, but yielded few tangible changes. Whitman, who had a record as an environmental moderate when she was New Jersey's governor, clashed several times with officials in Bush's White House and other agencies. Her views often lost out to concerns raised by developers and energy companies. Bush, for example, reversed his campaign position in favor of regulating carbon dioxide from burning coal and oil as a pollutant. Whitman had stated the administration's position would be in favor of placing a ceiling on CO2 emissions. Against her advice, Bush also rejected an international treaty on global warming negotiated in Kyoto, Japan in 1997 by the Clinton administration. Leavitt had met with administration officials in early June to discuss the possibility of taking the post, but he declined then, saying it would be "highly problematic" because he was considering running for a fourth term, a spokeswoman said at the time. Idaho Gov. Dirk Kempthorne, a former Republican senator, also had been mentioned as a candidate for the EPA post. Kempthorne confirmed earlier this month that he had talked with White House officials about the job shortly after Whitman's resignation. © 2002 AT&T and The Associated Press. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The information contained in the AP Online news report may not be republished or redistributed without the prior written authority of The Associated Press. Enter city or US Zip

don't forget your trail pass

since when was a mission statment required to get together with friends and fellows climbers, drink beer, do some climbing and howl at the moon?

granted offsets and hybrids are the best thing ... I've had decent success in vertical flaring cracks with the old rigid stem friends as well ... surely I can't be the only one

I'd say if a person (Man or Woman) is dumb enough to do something like this, the gene pool is better off without them.

should this not read more like "any time any climber puts in a bolted route they are deciding what other climbers GET for protection"

some years back a friend of mine wanted to go do "an easy" so I suggested Daniels from Peggy's Pond. I'm guessing it was mid-july ... anyhow, we went light with bivis, light bags a little food we each brought an axe but no crampons ... needless to say the traverse from the East Peak to the West Peak was a complete sheet of bullet proof ice and neither of us was up to chopping steps all the way across. Should have brought crampons. On our way back out to the car we pass this dude just loaded with a ton of shit, he was leading a group of 4or 5 with this monsterous 60+ lbs mule complete with 2 dozen wands, full gore-tex, 11mm ropes, you name it. When I asked which way they were headed, he says "thru Peggy's Pond" ....... ohh the irony hindsight : wish they had made lightweight alum cramps back then

sold

Old Style, Chouinard perlon Hex’s - 2 & 4 thru 10 (sizes 7 & 10 real old school “Swiss cheese”) Original style trapezoid Chouinard Stoppers - 7, 11 & 12 wired; 8, 9 & 10 on cord $45 for the whole lot, or if you wish $3 for the #2 hex, everything else $4 each You pay shipping from 98685 zip code or if in the PDX area we can make a swap @ a Pub Club or something. All together they weight approx 2.25 lbs. I think UPS will charge you for 5 lbs min. I’d rather these go to one of the fine cc.com members but if they don’t sell after a week I am going to throw them up on ebay.

well that explains a few things ..... Carper you should have warned me

hope you don't get stuck in a traffic jam coming over the bridge ..... see you cats and kittens @ Winter's pad. Wes

You got that right big fella!!! Long Live TG

didn't Yates use to make some monsters like that?

Don't forget, Volcano pass = Fee Demo ..... just say no!

and toast some marshmallows with a blow torch