AJ

UV affects plastic in almost all conditions. Yes, there are some areas that have higher exposure thresholds (think very sunny areas) but manufacturer's of plastics generally give conservative ratings. Plastic does not age (deteriorate) on a linear scale so manufacturer's typically give conservative estimates of the service life. Plastic also deteriorates as a function of temperature (on both ends of the scale). Very hot plastic blasted by high UV will break down fast. Also, extremely cold plastic blasted by high UV will break down quick. Cool plastic with no UV exposure not lose much strength over a long time. I have worked a lot with the polyethylene pipe industry and know that manufacturer's usually give recommended shelf life of plastic stored (outdoors or indoors) of between 3 to 4 years for medium density and around 5 years for high density (HDPE plastic pipe has more carbon black which is the active UV inhibitor). Those ratings are based on testing done in Yuma, AZ in direct exposure and they are 1/2 of the time it took to see a 50% reduction in strength. Oxidation of the outer skin is often associated with extreme UV exposure but it is not a very accurate way to estimate remaining strength. That said, if you see significant oxidation you should be concerned about the plastic. Climbing helmets can be made from a variety of plastics so it would be difficult to generalize. Buying a new helmet every 5 years seems reasonable.

Lambone, I believe the gravel pit being proposed is on the north side of I-90. It has been on and off again for 15 years. Ask anyone in North Bend about it - they are bound to have an opinion one way or another. The issue with Olallie is that the state is short of money in this funding cycle. The funding issue also affects other state run outdoor agencies like DNR who are considering closing a number of boat-only access camping areas throughout the San Juan Islands.

It is hard to find, but I'd highly recommend "A Walk in the Sky" by Nick Clinch. Story of first ascent of Gasherbrum I. The only time an American party had a first ascent of an 8000m peak. It took him 20 years after writing it to finally get it published - he had to be goaded into it. Great story and he gives all the credit for the climb to others, especially Pete Shoening and Andy Kauffman. Probably the most humble book about a big first ascent out there. No accidents, no big fights just good planning and dealing with what the mountain threw them. Oh, after reading "Touching the Void", "This Game of Ghosts", and "Dark Shadows Falling" I'm a little leery about climbing with anyone named Joe. (Also, I once met a guy who had attempted Ama Dablam in the mid-80's. They got weathered off and were drowning their sorrows in a bar in Katmandu. Some drunk Irish dudes started yelling so they went to check it out. When they got to that side of the bar they heard, "Oh my god, if it ain't Joe Simpson and ee's fallin' off o sometin' else!" I guess Joe had been on another ill fated attempt at a peak, fallen and broken his leg. He was recuperating at the bar, had gotten drunk and fallen off the barstool.) If you are a fan of his (kind of like watching flys going into the bug zapper), he has a new book coming out, "The Beckoning Silence" - here is the publisher's promo: Since his epic battle for survival in the Andes, recounted in the bestselling Touching the Void, Joe Simpson has endured several further brushes with death and has suffered the loss of many climbing friends in accidents which call into question the exhilarating, death-defying activity to which he has devoted his whole life. Never more alive than when most at risk, he has come to see an attempt on the Eiger, with its hooded, mile-high North Face, as the culmination of his climbing career.In a narrative which takes the reader through extreme experiences from an avalanche in South America, ice-climbing in the Alps and Colorado and paragliding in Spain – before his final confrontation with the Eiger and two more deaths – Simpson reveals the inner truth of climbing, exploring both the power of the mind and the frailties of the body. The subject of his new book is the siren song of fear and his struggle to come to terms with it.

Try the 911 Media Arts Center next to Feathered Friends in Seattle. They offer all sorts of scripting, documentary making, and video editing classes. Some of the newer DV editing software is pretty inexpensive and really easy to use. I've played around with Pinnacle's older program using a analog video and got okay results. I hear their DV version (<$100 retail) is much better. You can obviously go high end with other equipment but if you are just learning and have a decent modern PC with a big hard drive (~ 40 to 80 GB) then you can do well. The equipment and learning to use it isn't the hard part...getting good footage and having a decent story to tell is.

Hollywood (or anyone else) doesn't do too good a job of making movies about climbing. K2 wasn't bad. Eiger Sanction was better. I'd also give a nod to: THE ASCENT Produced By: RHI EntertainmentProducer: Njeri KaragoDirector: Don ShebibStars: Vincent Spano, Ben Cross, Rachel WardDistributer: Cabin Fever EntertainmentScreened: September 9, 1994 Basically a Hollywood version of Felice Benuzzi's story of being a prisoner of war (WWII) in Ethiopia at the foot of Mt. Kenya and escaping to climb the mountain - for the hell of it. This is rare and hard to find. So, that is my vote. Others that are worth watching just for kicks are: MOUNTAIN (1956) with Spencer Tracy and Robert Wagner. Sort of the mountain crash, we will save them and have some problems on the way. Great scenery but poor special effects. STORM AND SORROW (1990)with Lori Singer. Based on true story of Molly Higgins who teams up with some Americans (including at least one NW living legend) to go to Russia to climb with their best. Good scenery, some insight on John Roskelley and some horrible acting. I've heard HIGH ICE (1980) is intersting - shot on Whitehorse Mountain. Never seen it, supposed to be rare.

My brother has taken his guide dog with him to JT without any problems or hassles. In fact, most people are really excited to see Jeep. Then again, who is going to hassle a blind guy who wants to climb? (No, Jeep doesn't lead - he usually sleeps while Karl climbs.)

If you can ski a 180cm you might try Sports Authority at the Crossroads Mall in Bellevue. They have a new neon green pair of Kneissl TourCarve's on sale for $99. The ski hasn't been made for a few years. Shaped, with a tight turning radius. Can't figure out why they've got it in stock there.

If you don't need tool tubes or can get by with a single tool loop then look at the Serratus Genie (?). It is a super light and super inexpensive pack. For the cost you can save your mad money for a more expensive item. I got mine for <$40 new at MEC and it has worked well. When you pick it up at MEC go by and get a piece of their really thin bivy foam (~ 1/8"). Then, fold it a couple times and cut to size for the pack - it will be a bit more comfortable if you carry much hardware in the pack.

I'd agree about basing around Moab. There is some good climbing in the range you describe in Arches and Pot Ash Road has okay warm-up routes (you literally belay from the bumper of your car though). There is some good backpacking in Canyonlands - check out the Joint Trail. On your way to Canyonlands you can check out Indian Creek, but not much to be had below 5.10. Take the cams and get acquinted with climbing sandstone. The best guidebooks to the area are a series about desert rock in the national parks. If you really want multi-pitch you should hone up on your aid technique though. Mountain biking is great there and you might even get an early season run on the Colorado River. Should still be some snow in the La Salle Mountains if you want to cool off.

I'm working on the eastside (Bellevue) and I just don't know the area well enough. I like to get some long stairs (outside) incorporated into workouts about once a week. Is there anything like that around here? I know plenty of places in Seattle but I'd prefer something closer.

If you missed it last night, Mike and Kris did a nice job with their slideshow. The Dolomites are a great place for all us moderate climbers.

Aliens also, but if you really want a 3CU check out DMM. I've got a few and have been very impressed. They were also very inexpensive. Overall I like DMM gear.

I'd have to disagree that MOUNTAINFILM is all climbing related movies. There are some, but ususally it is more of a socially conscious outdoor filmfest. It is fun, but if you go to the 5 PM showing I don't think there is a single climbing related movie unless you count watching a monkey climbing trees to harvest coconuts or watching avalanches in Colorado. "Ode to Avalanche" was at Banff a couple years ago. The best climbing film in the bunch is at the 8 PM showing - "The Fatal Game" with Mark Whetu (NZ) is really good. Of course, it about high altitude Himalayan climbing and the story of an accident involving a guided climber not wanting to turn back. And no, it isn't some New Zealander remake of "Into Thin Air". All that said, I'm still planning to go to help support the Friends of the NW Weather and Avalanche Center.

That is pretty much what I've been told too. I have climbed with one guy who always uses a locker (rope side) for his first piece. His reasoning it that he may decide to change direction and he wouldn't want the rope to unclip the piece in a fall. He also figures that that would be a severe fall and he wants all the carabiner strength possible. He sometimes uses Screamers. I always like the first ice piece to have a Screamer attached. Another buddy of mine only uses Screamers when ice climbing - unless it is something like wrapping a really big (1' diameter) icicle or something.

Check out: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001232 Have fun if you go. Take a fishing rod.

Here's the update from the Ice Park website at http://www.ourayicepark.com/ Ouray Ice Park is open for the 2001/2002 season. 12/13/01 As of December 13, 2001. The Ouray Ice Park is open for 2001/2002. The new South Park Climbs all saw first ascents this morning. The upper gorge is in great shape but the lower gorge needs one more week of water. Temps are cold (Daytime highs of 15 degrees and nightime lows of -5 below.) The climbing will be getting better and better over the next week. Most of the climbs surrounding Ouray have come in. Climbing in the skylight area is great right now. All of the climbs are in and the ice is thicker than usual. The Ribbon and Birdbrain are not in. After 2-4 feet of new snow on Thanksgiving many new smears and unclimbed routes are appearing on Southern aspects. Avalanche condition in Ouray remain Considerable particularly on Northern and Northeastern facing slopes. High winds and 6-12 inches of new snow friday along with cold temperatures are not allowing the snowpack to stabilize. In Eureka Stairway to Heaven is in. The first pitch of Whorehouse Hose is in but the second ramp is unclimbable. The ice is in great condition on both climbs. All other Eureka climbs are in. South Mineral most climbs are in but have lengthy approaches. The 14 new climbs in the South Park area are forming up nicely.Gravity's Rainbow, Kennedy's and Horsetail are in but thin. Dexter Slabs is in. In Telluride - Ames Fall is in. Ames Ice Hose is in with a thin first pitch. Bridal Veil Falls is formed. This message will be updated daily and weekly depending on if I'm climbing or not. Thanks for your patience with our website. Erin Eddy, President, Ouray Ice Park Inc. Avalanche Conditions in the Ouray Areawww.geosurvey.state.co.us/avalanche Ouray Ice ParkColorado Avalanche Conditions

I think you can get all your answers at their website: http://www.skimtta.com/ You send in a form to a PO Box and they let you know. MTTA Hut Reservation Program, PO Box 206, Ashford, WA. 98304 or drop it off at the office behind the Fire Station at the west end of Ashford on Saturdays & Sundays between 9 am and 4 pm from December through April. You can also call: 360-569-2451 to check on the status of your request. Mount Tahoma Trails Association homepage

I thought it was okay. Mostly about Dean Potter. He is amazing, but unfortunately they hardly have anyone else in the video. The Scott Burke stuff was entertaining. The final 10 minutes or so are devoted to Dan Osman and it was interesting to see how he had done the rigging for his rope jumps. They also had good archival footage of Dan from the earlier Masters of Stone series.

Does anyone have experience with the Montrail Verglas boots? Did you like them? I'm looking for a replacement to my Salomon Super Mountain 9 (Rock & Ice) that never fit all that well anyway. I once owned a pair of LaSportiva K3's that fit great until the shank broke down and then caused a horrible pinching in my toes. Hard to find the Verglas (or Couloir) around Seattle unless you go to Montrail directly, which I probably will in order to try them on.

Arc'Teryx has been sold to the Salomon Group of addidas-Salomon. Terms have not been disclosed but Salomon has been interested in expanding for some time and was impressed with Arc'Teryx. You can find more information on each company's web sites.

Not to re-open the probe length debate too much, but from my experience there is somewhat of a comfort element to a longer probe. If you are doing a probe search you want to factor in your height. If your hip is approximately 1 meter above the snow then you can assume you will lose that much of the effective probe length because you probably won't stoop over too much in a search. With a 3 meter long probe you would get 2 meters of effective search depth. With a 2.3 meter probe you might only get 1.3 meters. Oh, part of the cost reduction for the Avalung is the redesign that keeps the size much smaller than in the past. It's effectiveness is reputed to be good if used according to the directions.

Check out Pika. I believe they make one of these hybrid lights as well. Probably mail order only though.

The cruise ships never dock in Cabo, but they do shuttle tourists into the downtown area via smaller boats. From the drop off point it is easy to hop on a boat to take you to Playa del Amor. (You pay for the ride out, the ride back used to be free.) Oh, take a couple bucks to the beach with you since you are likely to find a couple guys roaming the beach with cold cervezas (and limes if you like it that way). I thought their prices were a bit high at $2 per, but then again it was cold beer on a fairly remote beach. They have to make a living too. Oh, if you get up on the really hard stuff don't be surprised to see bolted on holds. You can see an example in the Everest IMAX movie. The opening sequences show that Spanish chick climbing in Cabo to "train".

Again, back to Chris Wall's recent article in Rock & Ice (#113). He seems to be an advocate of doing very heavy low repetitions (with good form) to build strength without building mass. It would seem that calf strength is as much of an endurance problem for ice climbing as it is power, but is there any credence to what he says as it might apply to calves?

I just read Chris Wall's training article in the latest Rock & Ice (#113). He makes some points about doing levers instead of pull-ups. Any thoughts on whether or not that really helps?