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chucK

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Everything posted by chucK

  1. chucK

    Smith Rocks

    quote: Originally posted by Dru: First pitch of Fridays Jinx 5.7 to second pitch of Crack of Infinity 5.8 Splitter. Never crowded, good rock and pro.Yeah, what's up with the R rating in the guide? Pack Animal is another good one, but it's also rated R. The second pitch (could probably do them as one?) is sustained for 5.8. Do these two, then from the top you can drop right down to Spiderman Buttress and avoid sketching over Asterisk Pass.
  2. Probably too easy for Peter, but Bob's 5th (? the one rated 5.9) crack on the BOB wall is sweet (but short). Check that one out after doing Cocaine Crack.
  3. chucK

    Pitons

    Weren't wiregates first used in sailing?
  4. My two cents... Don't get a bunch of different length slings. Get a bunch of single-length ones (over the shoulder length). Triple them up like draws. They'll be more compact and easier to handle if you buy the sewn high-strength ones. If you really need to, get some shorties too (I have one). If you come to a spot where you want a double sling just connect two singles (using opposite and opposed biners, not a girth hitch). I carry a cordelette that sometimes will see action if I want a REAL long sling. Rack all your cams on their own personal biners (nuetrinos work well to keep the bulk/weight down) and combined with the double biners on all your draws, you'll never run out. Girth hitching (especially wires) is dangerous AND it takes too long. Get a bunch of biners and MARK them. Marking them will make your and your partner's lives much more simple at the end of the day. Plus, your biners will dissappear less often. Chuck
  5. Climbed Chimney Rock by the North Face (not the East Face like everybody does). Went in through Middle Fork road and camped right next to the glacier N of Chimney Rock (one night). I think it was August. Fun time, righteous meadow sniffing, but not much of a rock climb. One good pitch (a chimney!) after a bunch of traversing ones. Climbed the middle peaks of Lemah and Three Queens from a camp at Spectacle Lake a long time ago. Both were fun, 3rd or 4th class. Don't remember what time of year.
  6. I thought of another one that actually IS rated 10b in the current guidebook...the RPM start to Outer Space has a 10b crack pitch through a small roof.
  7. Crux pitch on Squamish Buttress is pretty sweet and probably about 10b. Not the best 10b in the world but cooler than a lot of other stuff mentioned in this thread.
  8. quote: Originally posted by Dru: Walking women want to seeThe Southern Cross at nightAnd so they set aside a sockAnd tie their laces tightYet mournful is the melodyThat echoes in their headWithout a beat they march alongBelieving Bach is dead. BACH IS DEAD! Hey! I pulled out a Resident's shirt and wore it to the gym last night. Crazy!
  9. Hey Trask or whoever you are, Are you calling me, Roger, Mattp, imorris, dlunkman, Allison, Dru, erik, jon and gregm stupid? What's so stupid about using your real name? Allison and others might be embarassed to show other people this site. But at least the people using their real names aren't embarassed by what they have contributed. Chuck
  10. quote: Originally posted by trask: If you want to say something, let everyone know who you are. That makes you pretty accountable for the shit you say. So Trask, is your real name Trask? Are you not held to this rule because you never say anything anyway? Chuck
  11. Dru's list looks good. I would add Black Dagger to the list. It's only 5.7 but it's sustained . All the pitches are pretty cool. Long but nice hike in. Easy descent too. Key to Red Rocks this time of year is crowds. Try to plan on alternate nearby routes in case you find your 1st choice is bunged up. For example, Ginger Cracks is near Crimson Chrysalis, Sunflower is an option if Solar Slab is packed. We did Frigid Air Buttress last time I was there. It was a pretty good climb. It might be a good thing to try if you're getting bummed by the crowds. Other climbs I know of (I've done):Crimson Chrysalis - great, but way crowdedFrogland - good, but way crowdedDark Shadows - great, crowded but a nice spot to waitCatwalk - don't bother, not crowded Group Therapy - good, alternate to Tunnel Vision Ones I really wanna do:EpiTriassic SandsTurkeys
  12. I think we should make Allison a moderator, then maybe she'd come to Pub Club.
  13. http://home.attbi.com/~cspieker/SYO/OS/os.htm
  14. Lowry?
  15. chucK

    weather

    I use this one:http://home.attbi.com/~cspieker/Weather/weather.htm That one Erik posted looks good. That will be added to the above set of links. [ 03-15-2002: Message edited by: chucK ]
  16. Icegirl, If you're viewing in IE just click "view source", then notepad will pop up with the source code for the page. Then you can just search for some identifying word in the post. Figure out the html code and just delete everything but the beta you're after. Then you can save the file filename.htm. Then pull that page up in IE and show it to your friends. Oh wait, nevermind, you've got a webpage, you know all this stuff. So anyway, just make your own webpage. You can make it anything you want.
  17. So I noticed that those GU packets have 100% USRDA of vitamin E. The packets says to eat one GU like every 1/2 hour when doing intense physical exercise. So say you do the N. Ridge of Stuart in a day from the car (aside: Hey! Anybody wanna try this with me this year?? Let me know, not the GU part, just the climb part) and it takes you like 16 hours. That would be 32 packs of GU in a day !!! Now I assume most of you know that vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin and is thus possible to overdose on this. Does anybody know if 3200 USRDA of vitamin E in a day would kill yer ass, or at least make you real sorry for indulging in a such a way? Best,Chuck
  18. quote: Originally posted by jon: If it was some soccer mom yapping on her cell phone in her suburban I'm going to give her a piece of my mind, likelyhood of her putting a cap in my ass is pretty slim. Now it was some dude in a raised Bronco monster truck with Ranger stickers and a big banner about 9/11 saying "kill them all", wearing a cowboy hat and gargoyle sunglass there isn't a chance in hell I'd say anything. This is why I adhere to Eric's live and let live policy. I'm too scared to scream at scary guys and I feel like a total weaselly worm bully if I only act out against those I perceive to be defenseless. Plus, I hate it when those tough-guy boner junior traffic-law enforcers just add to the noise pollution by leaning on their horn for half a minute straight. I try not to emulate them. OK, OK, but you know what I really hate ? It's those pedestrians or whomever with big sticks up their asses who establish their right of way in front of you and then totally milk their dominance by going reeeeeeelll slow and holding you up for as long as possible. I guess they are extending their moment of power from 5 to 10 seconds or something. They usually spit on the ground in front of you too. That irks me. But I don't honk at 'em, because you know why? I hate those tough-guy boner junior traffic-law enforcers who just add to the noise pollution by leaning on their horn for half a minute straight and...
  19. Hey CrazyJZ and/or Rat! Tell us about the "Battle at the Index Parking Lot 1991." ! Speaking of Index Parking Lot did everybody notice that the Van is gone. "Van"ished without a trace. X-files dude.
  20. It can also be thought of as double taxation because a certain % of your fee goes to the Forest Service and the rest just goes back to the general fund. That stuff that goes back to the general fund is the tax you are paying on the fee!
  21. A true meritocracy would have the actual ATTENDEES of the pub club decide the location for the next week. I believe this was the procedure set in place during the last Pub Club fracas. So NO Allison, the 3/12/2 attendees did not jump the gun. They admirably performed their duty. Unfortunately the attendees of 3/5/2 Club Pub neglected/forgot to announce an upcoming location last week which opened the door to this latest ugly confrontation.
  22. Five servings a day!!! [ 03-12-2002: Message edited by: chucK ]
  23. Did anybody catch the Simpsons the other night? They were in this class to help senior citizens get their licenses back and the instructor (Chief Wiggum) says "It's ironic how most of you here are being kept alive by the organs of people you've killed on the road." Heh.
  24. Your cells constantly break down and your body builds more to take their place. As one ages this rebuilding function starts to slow down. One way to slow the inevitable deterioration that comes with ageing is to is to boost the longevity of your individual cells. A way to do this is to infuse maximal amounts of preservatives by following a diet heavy in preservative-laden foods like twinkies and processed lunchmeat. People over 35 should pour sodium benzoate in their beer. That's what I heard.
  25. Yeah! Be considerate to others or Jman'll get the Jwoman to get out of her car and scream at you!!!!!!!
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