chucK

quote: Originally posted by erik: restore original lower town trail.... Was there yesterday. Found that new trail-let that everybody was bitching about. It is now under a bunch of logs and debris obviously put there to discourage travel and impaction. Guess that trail was nipped in the bud. Looks like someone went to a lot of work for nothing (making that trail) but it looked to me like that additional trail was quite unnecessary.

I went to Index yesterday. Hope you had fun driving

I don't think it would be polite or smart to boulder under someone leading. The original post specified the "victims" were toproping.

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Because Ingalls Peak is a frequent destination for organized groups like the mountaineers, the person who contemplates this might also consider sending polite letters to such organizations, suggesting they inform their trip leaders that there will no longer be fixed anchors on the route. How about just posting here on CC.com complete with snaps from the crowbar party? Crowbar pose, crows, and prose. There is precedent. [ 04-24-2002, 02:28 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]

J, I have reread your initial post. I don't think there's any problem with some boulderer "invading someone's space" like you say, unless they were endangering that person (like bouldering above them). You specifically stated that these peoples were toproping, so no endangering it sounds like to me. quote: I can understand this kind of behavior in a climbing gym, but at the crag? Why would it be acceptable to do this stuff in a gym but not at a toprope crag?

quote: Originally posted by erik: i think nelson needs to put that correction in his update, that rapping that route is not the choice way to do things.....walk the off....... Erik, Where is this walkoff? Are you trying to be coy or not ruin others' wilderness climb by giving the beta? So what do you want Nelson to put in his update? "Don't rap from the obvious bolts. Go some other way. I'm not saying where."

Another example of very convenient convenience bolts: Diedre belay bolts. You get to chill on a nice ledge instead of hanging in a scrunchy corner. Sure speeds things up. Makes things much more comfortable (especially for parties > 2). More South Ridge of Ingals discussion: I did the South Ridge of Ingals before the bolts were there. There were a couple of "fixed" pitons (one was removable by one finger). We were stuck behind a mountie team that day. Everybody rapped down an alternate route. I'll bet the new bolts actually clog things up MORE by inviting people to rap the route. That route right of bloody fingers: Can't that Jeff Lowe route be toproped? How come that is not good enough for you? Right now, you can choose between very dangerous (lead) or very safe (toprope). Why the need to elimnate the very dangerous choice to produce a sorta dangerous choice? Surely you can envision toproped contrivance methods that can produce a sorta dangerous experience without erasing history and adding more shinies to the stone?

I think a more prudent choice of venue would put the PC within walking distance of the beds of people who were going to drink. Though I would luv to see your pictures.

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: quote.. What about the elesian (sp?) on capitol hill. It's big enough and is non smoking. We have been to smoking bars lately What are you some kind of wimp? I'm so healthy la la la. [/QB] Smokin' gives ya pneumonia. Makes ya look older though.

REI advertises it for a buck a hit, but chances are if you go down there they will be OUT OF STOCK!

quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Brother Chuck says: "I think a more prudent choice of venue would put the PC within walking distance of the beds of people who were going to drink." I guess it going to be in Tacoma then, eh? More like Issaquah I think.

I got a few minutes to kill, so here's a quick crag report from this weekend. Crag Report: Saturday at Duty Dome We were intending on going to Index. My partner was real gung-ho and wanted to leave at 7am. Good thing he did, because it was pissing as we drove by Index and headed to alternate destination, Leavenworth. Duty dome was the call. I'd never been there, but Bill recommended it highly. There were about 5 cars already at Castle Rock as we drove by and a gaggle of climbers all over Bruce's Boulder. Noone at Duty when we arrived. We started at Fish Wall and climbed 3 short little routes. Virgin Sturgeon was the best of the three. All quite short. Moved over and hit Jazzy Document , the "cover" climb. That was a lot of fun. Sporto climb, seemed pretty easy for the grade (9). Next up the hill was the Urban Nomads/300 Motivational Tapes duo. What a couple of cool climbs. Double thumbs up . No bolts except at belay stations. Both pitches are just about exactly 25 meters (Just barely made it on lead with a doubled 50m 8.5 with knots. No problem on the raps). Looks like you could add a another cool move or two at the top of 300 Motivational Tapes with a little scrubbing (short overhanging corner crack). Now we trudged up to the Off Duty area and climbed p's 2 and 3 of Bombs Away. Cool first (second) pitch, then the next one was short but way nice . I think I went off route and pulled out over this roof using a jug. I figure it was off route as it was real dirty above the roof, but still goes. A little bit of scrubbing could make that a nice variation too. From the top of Duty Dome we lowered down Neatness at Noon and climbed that on toprope. Looks like that thing is a full 60m pitch (has midway anchors). Lots of big fat new-looking bolts. Fun pitche(s). I gotta figure out how one gets to the bottom of that from below. Finally we scrambled down and rapped Off Duty. I got to lead Off Duty. Excellent pitch! My favorite of the day. I was scared almost the whole time! I took too freakin' long though and Bill was a popsicle by the time I got back down and he declined to climb. He wasn't too tired to pop those beers he lugged up there for us though. Thanks Bill! Back down to the truck just barely before the headlamp, completed the elusive 10-pitch crag day. Great day. Nice weather, excellent views up to the Rat Creek Spires. No hoardes. We could see a bunch of folks sitting around in what looked like an "instructional" setting on top of Icicle Buttress, and there was a group of three up East of us, left of Warrior Wall, doing some new route work it looked like. Anyway, gotta go back there. Some more good pitches to do, and a bunch of new big fat bolts on nice looking pitches that are not in the current guidebook. A couple of cool-looking crack lines over on Boutrous-Boutros Ghali Buttress (?) too, I think. Later, Chuck

[reposted: originially misplaced in BC forum] We were at Doody Dome on Saturday and the weather was awesome! Cool and often sunny. We climbed up Bombs Away and then climbed Neatness at Noon by lowering down. Can anybody tell me how to get to the base of Neatness at Noon from below? Can you scramble up there from the top of Jazzy Document (cool sporto pitch)? I highly recommend 300 Motivational Tapes/Urban Nomads and Off Duty too . Gaper Ray, Is the Midnight Rock falcon closure officially over (i.e. as far as the rangers are concerned?).

Is the falcon closure at Midnight Rock over? [ 04-22-2002, 12:47 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]

I checked out The Shanty, it's probably big enough but Tuesday Night is Bingo Night . The local denizens said that is the one night it's crowded. Oh well. No shanty. It doesn't really look like a microbrew type of place either. The Back Door looks way too small. And Scott, buck up dude. There'll be many years when you can drink, but not very long when you'll be twenty. Don't piss your youth away wishing you could pay 3 times as much for beer as drinking it at home, or at some keg-party brawl. [ 04-24-2002, 01:34 PM: Message edited by: AlpineK ]

I haven't actually downloaded it, but this page (Larry Nevers) says you can download a printable Mt. Erie guide here. Check it out. http://www.nevershome.org/download.htm

quote: Originally posted by pope: Let it be known that I'm doing my best to kiss and make up. Pope, Why must you make everything sexual?

Thank you for inviting me to the chat room Allison. CAN YOU TURN THAT DAMN THING OFF NOW!!!!!!!!111

Cooper's Alehouse? The Shanty? Fiddler's Inn? The Back Door? I haven't checked any of these places out. Well, except for Cooper's. Umm, and I guess the Fiddler's.

Erik an' Ed goin' to Index tomorrow? Shouldn't you guys be headed to Squamish or someplace else? I heard Index is gonna be wet and crowded tomorrow. That's what I heard.

Is sk Allison's dad?

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: But I have to often heard the "we have a class" as some sort of reason why I should get off a route or leave an area. To often I hear: "Um, hi. I'm from the mountaineers, and we have a class using this area today." Um, hi. I'm not from the mountaineers. I have no class. I am not in a class. I am climbing here. Have a nice day. This is pretty ironic coming from a guide.

I thought that was a rash you can get from swimming at Alki or Golden Gardens and then not showering afterward (or being too modest to take your swimsuit off to shower). Oh wait! That's Puget Peter. Nevermind.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: hikerwa wrote "I don't think that the all of the mountaineers suck, just the ones that I too have encountered with the "i own this (rock, crevasse, mountain)" attitude." Agree agree agree. This is the problem with being/belonging to an organization or identifiable class of folks. You may be unfairly branded with the worst of the worst that your group has produced. Many people think poorly of all Mountaineers because they once encountered some jerk or someone that somehow inconvenienced them who was identified as a mountie.

quote: Originally posted by allison: oh, come ON ChucK, you really think a group of 90 is the same as your examples? Don't make me stick that electric cattle prod in your ear again, or you won't have ANY brain cells left, let alone your poor tastebuds. I liked that cattle-prod thingy. It seemed to organize my thoughts, make my life so much more clear. Do you support the quotas on Mt. Rainier, Boston Basin, the Enchantments or not?