chucK

Psychobabble is cool though

If somebody tells you that you can jump off a 3m cliff and land safely, would you trust them and do it, or think "Dude, sounds sketchy" and not do it, or test it a few times with a bag of rocks before you realized it was sketchy? [ 03-21-2002: Message edited by: chucK ]

quote: Originally posted by cj001f: Oh Grand My Schlong is Longer than yours because I have a PHD completely unrelated to the topic at hand - and am therefore superior to someone who's done quite a bit of practical measurements. Dude! I think that is his point. The part about "quite a bit of practical measurements" that is. There are tons of posters who posted that it is obviously stupid to girth hitch a wire but it is doubtful that many have done any practical measurements. I have not. If anybody else has, they have not posted their findings. Dru is the only one so far, but I didn't see anything yet that talked about girth hitches through wires? AFAICT Dru's experiments blew out a copperhead. Who here has done quite a bit of practical measurements? IF so, speak out! Present your results. [ 03-21-2002: Message edited by: chucK ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I did a similar test with some copperheads a few years ago finding out how much force it took to blow em out. woo hoo! basically it took a 40L pack full of rocks, taking a factor-1, from about 20 feet, on a #4 alumahead.. Static or dynamic rope? I'm sure there's a geek or two on rec.climbing who would convert it to KN for you.

Ray's right, get the yellow and blue TCU and the orange one too. But it won't be doubling up though because all those will be smaller than what you got. If you wanna double up get the yellow TCU and a yellow Alien.

What about Cooper's? That's near my house.

Well one of us is mixed up then, because I thought he was using Chris Harmston's quote to further his argument. I think the "BS engineer" was a sarcastic response to Retro's dig on engineers.

Dude I don't know? We have to carefully budget our rainy days around here. Have you done it (your bag o' rocks 'speriment) yourself? If so, please present a report.

Ride the Rollercoaster baby!!!

I am wondering what is the flaw in the argument that compares slings through a wire with the slings through a metolius TCU? You guys can't possibly be thinking that that extra (.1mm thickness) colored tape is gonna make all the difference do you?

For me there is definitely an hour or two where it is a real struggle to keep awake (2-4am, and 3pm) for me. I think that varies by person. Then, like you said, you're good to go again afterwards for hours. I think the accidents between midnight and 2am stat might have more to do with bar closing times than peoples' biological clocks.

What about the 'feines' Eric? I've also experienced the coffee putting me to sleep phenomenon on overnight (driving) pushes. I think it's actually the warm liquid that puts you to sleep not the caffeine. I think the way caffeine works is that it suppresses the clearance of adrenalin from your system. If you ain't got no more adrenalin, the coffee isn't going to do the job. On an overnight drive, you're doing nothing but following the hypnotic dashed lines, so there's nothing to get any adrenalin released even if you had any more [well maybe if you fall asleep at the wheel, that usually gets some adrenalin going , if you wake up that is]. Trudging along on all-night forced march might be different. Bronco recommends taking a thermos of coffee with you on all-night pushes though.

I must respectfully disagree with Air-ich. I just read through the splitter gear thread and I thought Brian-Boulder did a good job. His first reply was a bit awkward but after that he handled himself quite well given the situation. I haven't read the OP thread since the OP rep replied. But, unless they were totally stupid, the OP peOPle would have obviously forseen that using prison labor would be a controversial course. Given that, it would be pretty stupid of them to proceed without having a smooth-talking mouthpiece who had as part or all of his/her job description the job of dealing with the public about these controversies. It is no surprise to me that this person handled himself well.

Van

Whatta you call a guy with no arms and legs flying over a fence? Whatta you call a guy with no arms and legs hanging on a wall? Whatta you call a guy with no arms and legs with a painting of wild horses on his side? Whatta you call a guy with no arms and legs on a stage with a guy screaming at him?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: As for Squamish cracks, White Rabbit (10b) on Smoke Bluff Wall gives the same difficulty of Split Pillar or Caboose in 8m instead of 50/25m. And it is rarely busy. So are you saying that climbing White Rabbit is just as difficult as climbing Split Pillar, or that Split Pillar is like 6.25 White Rabbit's without a rest? Hey Dru, what would you think of doing the bone to six white rabbits?

I think Empire state if not my first gear lead was probably done in my first year of leading. I remember a great kneelock entering the chimney with an irregularity that dug into my bone and hurt for weeks. Maybe noone knows of it because only newbies are dumb enough to climb it?

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Does the 5.9 you are talking about climb and steepening buttress? It goes up a fun balancy face-climbing-type crack to below a small roof, then you pull over the roof in perfect handjams. The anchor is situated perfectly for a half-(50m)rope rap/toprope. A nice little out of the way sport-crack crag.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: First pitch of Fridays Jinx 5.7 to second pitch of Crack of Infinity 5.8 Splitter. Never crowded, good rock and pro.Yeah, what's up with the R rating in the guide? Pack Animal is another good one, but it's also rated R. The second pitch (could probably do them as one?) is sustained for 5.8. Do these two, then from the top you can drop right down to Spiderman Buttress and avoid sketching over Asterisk Pass.

Probably too easy for Peter, but Bob's 5th (? the one rated 5.9) crack on the BOB wall is sweet (but short). Check that one out after doing Cocaine Crack.

Weren't wiregates first used in sailing?

My two cents... Don't get a bunch of different length slings. Get a bunch of single-length ones (over the shoulder length). Triple them up like draws. They'll be more compact and easier to handle if you buy the sewn high-strength ones. If you really need to, get some shorties too (I have one). If you come to a spot where you want a double sling just connect two singles (using opposite and opposed biners, not a girth hitch). I carry a cordelette that sometimes will see action if I want a REAL long sling. Rack all your cams on their own personal biners (nuetrinos work well to keep the bulk/weight down) and combined with the double biners on all your draws, you'll never run out. Girth hitching (especially wires) is dangerous AND it takes too long. Get a bunch of biners and MARK them. Marking them will make your and your partner's lives much more simple at the end of the day. Plus, your biners will dissappear less often. Chuck

Climbed Chimney Rock by the North Face (not the East Face like everybody does). Went in through Middle Fork road and camped right next to the glacier N of Chimney Rock (one night). I think it was August. Fun time, righteous meadow sniffing, but not much of a rock climb. One good pitch (a chimney!) after a bunch of traversing ones. Climbed the middle peaks of Lemah and Three Queens from a camp at Spectacle Lake a long time ago. Both were fun, 3rd or 4th class. Don't remember what time of year.

I thought of another one that actually IS rated 10b in the current guidebook...the RPM start to Outer Space has a 10b crack pitch through a small roof.

Crux pitch on Squamish Buttress is pretty sweet and probably about 10b. Not the best 10b in the world but cooler than a lot of other stuff mentioned in this thread.