chucK

Hey! Nice going UT! You guys got off route and still topped out. That's perserverance! When you talk of the "Great Roof" are you talking about that big triangular roof above a 20' dihedral with handcrack directly above the 3rd belay of Safe Sex? You mentioned a great handcrack on your variation pitch. Could that be "S.S. variation 5.9", perhaps the "obvious finger crack that has yet to be freed" mentioned in the Traveler's Guide?

I went up to Lundin yesterday. Lots of snow once up to the Cave Ridge saddle. Perfect for walking on, no iceaxe needed. I'd bet if I was one of you yuppie f*ck f*ck ski types, I might think it'd be worth it to haul some skis up there in my Subaru for some turns.

In climbing, the reason the vast majority of consequences are directly related to your actions is because there are SO MANY MORE CONSEQUENCES. Virtually every minute you spend climbing can result in injury or loss of life. I don't think you can say the same about biking (unless the only biking you do is on Lake City Way or something like that). You can view biking the same way. Cars are an objective hazard. There are things you can do to minimize the hazards. Different bikers choose different levels of risk. Just like climbing. In your analogy, with respect to bikes you have decided to "back off and go drink beer".

Hey Catbirdseat and Dru are you masterpointing right now? Just tie in the rope as direct to a bolt as you can. Use a clove hitch on a locker. If you don't trust the clove hitch, back it up with a somethin on a bight. If you've got double ropes repeat as above but with other bolt. If not, use a sling attached to the other bolt or the masterpoint If you don't have a sling leftover at the top, it's probably because you use those deadly dogbone draws (you shouldn't ).

Here's sort of a related one. Amazon.com. Ordered some stuff for Chistmas a couple of years back. I paid extra for the get-it-there-by-Christmas "guarantee". Well, it didn't get there by Christmas, and you know what the compensation was? ... they refunded the extra money I paid for the get-it-there-by-christmas and offered me 10% off my next order! . I emailed and told them what I thought about a measly 10% off of stuff from a company I never wanted to do business with again, and after a couple of emails, they refunded my shipping costs too. Words of wisdom, when something is "guaranteed" find out ahead of time what exactly it means.

You guys better hurry ( rain on the way! )

Yeah, the hidden cost of doing mail order. I ordered a TCU from Backcountry Gear (from the advert on this website). They sent me a metolius "power cam" instead of a TCU. Not a big difference and I just shrugged it off, but it is sort of annoying when they send you something different than what you ordered.

Yeah Dave Shuldt, you got the place reserved yet or what?

Read the original internet flamewar! The aggrieved Mr. Sewernick is portrayed by himself. Mr. Thesenga goes by the handle "jo momma".

I like those odds! - Homer Simpson

Hey JayB, Go do Rain Man on Exfoliation dome. Don't worry about the 10c crux, you can yard on a bolt right on thru . Either go to the top (runout no bolts ) or rap from where it meets up with Dark Rhythm. Then if you've got some of the day leftover do Dark Rhythm up to the merge point. That might keep you busy with a quality outing. And if you've done it, well....nevermind .

Those fahqin trips when you hump a whole shitload of rock gear into some remote place, then something happens like you just get too beat up on the hike in, or it rains, or you just freak out or both. Then have to hump the whole shitload back out after not having put a harness on the whole trip. I feel overprepared on those trips.

Hey Retro, Did you get a look at the topo? Crack o' Doom might be 10b if you exited the crack left, or came in from the right via that overhanging finger crack. (but entering from the left and exiting from the right, it's much easier than Breakfast of Champions, so that way it's only 5.9 like Retro sez)

Alpine K, the jibman, the jibmeister, Constantine J. Jibopopulis!

Thanks. Any more tame peak-bags?

Hey! What are some good day hikes to do when based in Squamish around the Fourth of July? Thank you vry much.

The perfect pro to put behind behind flakes is tri-cams, pink one's of course. The next best kind of pro to put behind flakes is hexes. Yeah, hexes.

I almost fell dude! Actually, now that I think about it... I almost fell a couple of times and I actually did fall about 3 times.

Yeah man. I tell ya. I almost freakin died at index the other day. Almost freakin died.

Do you have examples of where this was ever done, or is this just a straw man?

It sounds like there's a couple of sprayers around here who have Online on their not-yet list.

Me too with Sagitarius (just to the anchors below the roof). I don't know why I'm so scared of it! Thin Fingers too. Sagitarius is still onsight potential (the kind of "onsight" where you greedily devour beta, but have not yet physically been on the climb type of onsight). Thin Fingers I have toproped into submission many a time. Took multiple whippers on Zoom the other day. I guess that's one it will take a while to get enough courage to go back and try again. But I gotta now! Damn skeleton climbs! Oh yeah, I never did top out on Zoom (booty alert).