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Here's sort of a related one. Amazon.com. Ordered some stuff for Chistmas a couple of years back. I paid extra for the get-it-there-by-Christmas "guarantee". Well, it didn't get there by Christmas, and you know what the compensation was? ... they refunded the extra money I paid for the get-it-there-by-christmas and offered me 10% off my next order! . I emailed and told them what I thought about a measly 10% off of stuff from a company I never wanted to do business with again, and after a couple of emails, they refunded my shipping costs too. Words of wisdom, when something is "guaranteed" find out ahead of time what exactly it means.

You guys better hurry ( rain on the way! )

Yeah, the hidden cost of doing mail order. I ordered a TCU from Backcountry Gear (from the advert on this website). They sent me a metolius "power cam" instead of a TCU. Not a big difference and I just shrugged it off, but it is sort of annoying when they send you something different than what you ordered.

Yeah Dave Shuldt, you got the place reserved yet or what?

Read the original internet flamewar! The aggrieved Mr. Sewernick is portrayed by himself. Mr. Thesenga goes by the handle "jo momma".

I like those odds! - Homer Simpson

Hey JayB, Go do Rain Man on Exfoliation dome. Don't worry about the 10c crux, you can yard on a bolt right on thru . Either go to the top (runout no bolts ) or rap from where it meets up with Dark Rhythm. Then if you've got some of the day leftover do Dark Rhythm up to the merge point. That might keep you busy with a quality outing. And if you've done it, well....nevermind .

Those fahqin trips when you hump a whole shitload of rock gear into some remote place, then something happens like you just get too beat up on the hike in, or it rains, or you just freak out or both. Then have to hump the whole shitload back out after not having put a harness on the whole trip. I feel overprepared on those trips.

Hey Retro, Did you get a look at the topo? Crack o' Doom might be 10b if you exited the crack left, or came in from the right via that overhanging finger crack. (but entering from the left and exiting from the right, it's much easier than Breakfast of Champions, so that way it's only 5.9 like Retro sez)

Alpine K, the jibman, the jibmeister, Constantine J. Jibopopulis!

Thanks. Any more tame peak-bags?

Hey! What are some good day hikes to do when based in Squamish around the Fourth of July? Thank you vry much.

The perfect pro to put behind behind flakes is tri-cams, pink one's of course. The next best kind of pro to put behind flakes is hexes. Yeah, hexes.

I almost fell dude! Actually, now that I think about it... I almost fell a couple of times and I actually did fall about 3 times.

Yeah man. I tell ya. I almost freakin died at index the other day. Almost freakin died.

Do you have examples of where this was ever done, or is this just a straw man?

It sounds like there's a couple of sprayers around here who have Online on their not-yet list.

Me too with Sagitarius (just to the anchors below the roof). I don't know why I'm so scared of it! Thin Fingers too. Sagitarius is still onsight potential (the kind of "onsight" where you greedily devour beta, but have not yet physically been on the climb type of onsight). Thin Fingers I have toproped into submission many a time. Took multiple whippers on Zoom the other day. I guess that's one it will take a while to get enough courage to go back and try again. But I gotta now! Damn skeleton climbs! Oh yeah, I never did top out on Zoom (booty alert).

In this case Rainier Beer goggles

This was stated on another thread, but I think it applies here. I think a very good way to bolt a crux move is to have the bolt as close to the crux as possible, but low enough so as to be impossible to use it to cheat through the crux. The KDR pitch at Static is like this. So JayB, do you think this sucks because it is deliberately making the moves more dangerous than they need be? (BTW If the crux of the pitch is not really representative of the rest of the route, like say, a 5.11 move or two, with the rest of the route being sustained 5.9, then I think it's cool if the bolt there allows one to cheat.)

Good post JayB. The Static Point bolts are fine for the most part. I hadn't noticed the belay below the crux pitch as being scary. I know there are still 1/4"ers in some of those belays but with the exception of the top station aren't all the rest augmented with at least one stainless 3/8"er. The runout on the 3rd pitch makes that pitch classic. If you get scared, you can deviate right over to an area with holds and a good piton, then curve back onto the mainline. A slab fall probably won't kill you IF you wear a helmet and take care not to get your feet caught in the rope. Might end up with some road rash though, but heck, you can get that from sliding into second base. If someone really wants to improve the Static Point experience, I would advocate bringing a shovel and/or prybar and modifying some of the smaller waterbars so that one could ride a bike on that initial road without having to dismount every 50 feet. That would rule!

Check George Bell's Cirque of the Unclimables page out. You'll find a pic or two there.

Thank you all for your kind comments. Dru, if you're serious, write up a little sumpin about that Fraser Rox place (I've never been there) and I'll put it on there. Klar, sorry about the sandbag, I fix it, maybe. Sloppy, I thought my Vantage page was truly inspirational on a visual level . Where exactly are these canadia and smiff places?