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The way to make it cool is to say, "check out my package" when you're flashing your partner your tie in. ARE YOU NUTS!!?! YOU COULDA DIED!! Didn't you read the instruction manual that came with your harness before using it! I think FOTH says something about doubling back your harness too.

how do taller climbers have an advantage on slab? bigger feet= more friction? gimme a break shit disturber... Didn't I already clear this up for you guys? The answer is, IF all you are concerned about is one pure-friction move, then taller climbers do not have an advantage, and may conceivably be disadvantaged due to more difficulty in balancing all that stretched out bulk over his/her feet. HOWEVER in the real world there are more often than not holds on the slab. As with any other type of climbing, connecting these holds is the key. If you have any experience in slab climbing you will know that even the tiniest pimple or dish can be extremely helpful to stave off the slide 'n tumble. The less moves over holdless spots you need to make, the better. That is why being tall helps, because taller people often have longer legs which allows them to reach further to the next dimple. One less move to be able to reach one of those well-spaced bolts is also a tremendous advantage of being tall when slab climbing. So please, no more whining you tall people. How's the weather up there anway?

Though I refuse to advocate soloing, the way down the N ridge of the Tooth is a bit easier, and is a good alternative if you are comfortable on 4th class. I have not car-car'd the Tooth in under 2 hours.

I think Jens is thinking of the face-climbing aspect of slab climbing. With rare exception, you do use "holds". It's just that the holds are just more sticky spots. The common move on slabs is rocking on to a hold then pressing it out. It's an advantage to be able to reach that foot further up and around. I'd think being tall would help this reach, though maybe not if the length between your knee and foot were much longer than between your hip and knee. For pure friction climbing (everything is a hold/nothing is a hold) height probably doesn't matter.

Yeah! That's right! I bet they found Buku WMD already but they can't tell us....because it would cause widespread panic and looting because....dun dun dun...they are currently ready to blow at undisclosed locations in every major city in the US and a few minor cities too . I think that's justification enough to invade Iran AND Syria. RIGHT NOW!!!!! So we can avoid unimaginable loss of American lives!!! Anybody who disagrees with this is obviously in league with those bastards who are waiting with their dirty fingers on the triggers RIGHT NOW !!!!

DOH! sorry i forgot that part Maybe you just need some more creativity. You could probably get sit starts on pitches that begin on a ledge. Every pitch that has a hanging belay below it is a sit start.

There must by some laybacking testpieces out there. Anybody got any? Zigzag pitch on NW Corner NEWS? 9 Spineless at Index 10 There must be some at Squamish, but I haven't done 'em. That Perry's Layback looks way cool. Doesn't everybody layback the Split Pillar? Diedre and Apron Strings also seem to get the layback treatment (I have climbed those).

OK, then if that's the case it ain't no testpiece! First pitch of Outer Space crack = 5.7 crack testpiece

I think Tex's definition is laudable but makes finding a 'testpiece' almost impossible. I think if you subdivide it into grade and climbing type, then you can get good testpieces. The 5.x climbtype testpiece should have much sustained 5.x climbtype climbing. So, here's a few Godzilla : 5.9 corner Shock Treatment: 5.10 slab Breakfast of Champions: 10a handcrack Klahanie Crack: 5.6 handcrack Sloe Children 5.10 thin crack Old Gray Mare 5.8 face Damnation 5.9 wide cracks Canary p1 5.8 weird

PUSSY GALORE "DIAL 'M' "

Just climbed it today. Thanks guys . That move to the corner IS f**ked for 10b and that last pitch is scary (no bolts to cheat on on that one). End Run and Free Cat over at Hag Crag both got scrubbed and rebolted too. Looks great. That fat crack over there got a bolt put next to it. with that?

You guys are all wrong! This one has size AND weight. It is The Shit!!

OK let's try again. Anybody wanna climb something Monday (today?). PM me. I can drive this time.

Here's some hyperbole related to Exit 38. I was just out a Darrington the other day thinking back about climbing at Index a couple of weeks before and I thought, "Shit!! These crags around Seattle, they got some KILLER views!!". Think about it, Index, Darrington, Static Point, Icicle Creek, Mt. Eerie, even Vantage, they all got some rawkin' views!!! But Exit 38? Most of the time you're in buggy second-growth brown lifeless jungle. Maybe, if you hike all the way up to Bob's wall, you can look out through the slash at another clearcut above over an Interstate Freeway. That said. Everyone should go to Exit 38. Ya'll'll like it out there. Don't drive your own car though.

I woulda but noone wanted to go with me today Are ALL the bolts replaced or just the p1 ones?

Nameless Tower Route is my favorite. Godflesh is cool too.

Yeah, what does "pizdec" mean anyway?

How about that Pisces Crack on the Great Northern Slab. Now there is a place to place Hexes. Your newbie second will lose much skin removing those babies . Stoppers are bomber dood. You definitely want to learn how to place those. Cams are bomber too. You definitely want to learn how to place those. Hexes . I don't see the utility in learning those if you're just going to abandon them once you get good anyway. Buy a complete set of stoppers ('cept not the body weight size). Like Retro said, WC style are good. BD are pretty good, but don't get below like a #3. HB offsets are awesome, but might be a better as a supplement to a full range of another brand. So are DMM Wallnutz. Start with just a couple cams, maybe a couple camalots between .5 and 2. That way you'll use 'em and learn, but you won't be able to completely ignore the stoppers. Camalots are a good choice for the beginner because they have the wider camming range. Hmm...I think everybody said all this already.

True enough about Nevermind. It's got the river noise to drown out or mask the freeway noise and you're not climbing directly on a road cut. Let's head up there right now Flebby! (you drive ) All those roadcut craglets definitely suck though.

you are all sooooooo suck !!!!!!! just kidding. I actually hate myself, not you

you are all sooooooo suck !!!!!!! just kidding. I actually hate myself not you

More like lack of leader idiocy. C'mon! The leader is shepherding 8 newbies, 2 of which are guaranteed to be clueless, up this thing. Don't you think it might be a good idea for the leader to know the proposed climb inside and out?

Too funny Lammy