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Peter Puget's long-awaited TR!!!! We SALUTE you

what's to talk about? they evidently haven't found any. the war was still justified to eliminate Saddam and his fucked up regime, and to show the world that our motto is "don't tread on me". It would have been nice if they spent that 75 billion $'s on something that would have actually improved homeland security, like helping out local govt's get prepared for terrorists, like buying that plutonium away from the Russians, like funding inspection of shipping containers. Perhaps they could have actually gone after Al Quaeda???? It's nice though that some of you guys are so compassionate towards the downtrodden peoples of Iraq. Glacierdog, though I question the need for your sacrifice, I still say thanks for doing what you think is right for the country. In case it's not blocked on your internet access over there, check out the website of a true demo contender. Al Sharpton? Gary Condit? What are they filling your head with over there?

I got carded twice in the last week.

. Make sure you bring your #4 for the secret #4 placement on Canary. Nice to have for the Bone too.

Do R.D. with Cocaine Crack in the middle and it'd average out to 5.7+.

Trask = paid Hooters hukster.

I think that thingy Fern posted is cool. From my internet shopping viewpoint it appears to kick ass on the metolius thingy CBS posted. If metolius sent me a free one, I'd gladly spray on CC.com about it.

That ain't no 5.9, and besides the guidebook says you can avoid that part. But anyway, how about the first three pitches of the Regular Route at Careno? You could probably do the first pitch pretty easily if you yard at the first hard spot then take the chimney/corner on the left instead of the steep bolted face that goes right. Careno Corners on the same crag (duh) is easy too but pretty dirty and unfun . There's some rock called Planet of the Eights with a whole bunch of 5.8 pitches (Dave Shuldt recommended this one to me), but it's not multipitch.

Orbit, directions

Mike Price was set up. 'Bama got skittish about his contract.

Though his reputation was arguably more damaged (and thus unemployable by a magazine) by the allegations that he was unrepentant asshole, in court.

Unless you're a real anchor-building doofus, the only reason one of the points would fail is because there's a HUGE force on it. The only way a fatty belayer is going to get pulled up at any speed is if there is a HUGE force on her. Maybe there'll be some stretch left in the rope, but probably not.

CBS, not many people care WHAT you do. On this board though there may be interest in WHY you think that way. Your post appears paradoxical. WHY do you choose to eschew fixed biners on trad routes? I think Dru makes a good point.

Moderators please break this into a new thread, or append it to one of the past ones dealing with the slingshot belay question.

Check it out. JT's side of the story "However, I feel it is important to set the record straight. Apparently because I was editor of an outdoor magazine, the National Park Service has chosen to make me their example of climber misbehavior in national parks. This has resulted in inaccuracies, and exaggerations on the Internet and newspapers about the incident. " Who's lieing? Feds or JT? Did I miss this being posted earlier?

Right, that was my point. Your quickdraw isn't going to do you any good if it's not attached to the bolt. Thus, it's a bit of a compromise. The stiff quickdraw will help you get clipped quicker (if you're clipping a non-spinner bolt hanger), but is more prone to failure when falling on it a bit later. Each person needs to weight which of these factors looms more heavily in their own climbing style. If you're climbing on gear I see no reason to be using those deadly dogbone draws. If you're climbing a route bolted by a tall guy like Brian Burdo, you might consider bringing a couple of "cheater" draws.

So what's up with that thing? As far as I can tell it is a compromise between sliding X and tieing the knot. In Iain's fig (and the trango thingy) a single piece blowing will allow extension, just not as much as the sliding X is that right?

Assuming you're talking about draws that are somewhat stiff so as to also aid in the clipping process. Advantage: less likely that rope will come unclipped when the climber falls past the draw and the rope (on the climbers side of the draw) just happens to fall across the gate (this can be mitigated somewhat by orienting the biner to have the gate opening facing up). Also possibly less likely that biner can get held over some edge and thus get torqued over it in a fall (and break completely). Disadvantage: more difficult to clip, and a fall is less safe if you do it just before the clip than just after.

A cordelette will equalize at all times too if you don't tie the knot at the anchor point. The reason you might choose to tie the knot at the anchor point is so you don't get huge extension/shock load if one anchor blows. If you want to avoid this with the Trango thingamajig you have to tie THREE knots. It looks more difficult to sling a horn or fashion the Trango thingy into Texas-Prussik footloops. The Trango thingy also looks heavier and more unwieldy to carry on your harness. Cordelettes made out of spectra-whatever are not cheap at 1+ bucks/foot, but still come in cheaper than $34.

The way to make it cool is to say, "check out my package" when you're flashing your partner your tie in. ARE YOU NUTS!!?! YOU COULDA DIED!! Didn't you read the instruction manual that came with your harness before using it! I think FOTH says something about doubling back your harness too.

how do taller climbers have an advantage on slab? bigger feet= more friction? gimme a break shit disturber... Didn't I already clear this up for you guys? The answer is, IF all you are concerned about is one pure-friction move, then taller climbers do not have an advantage, and may conceivably be disadvantaged due to more difficulty in balancing all that stretched out bulk over his/her feet. HOWEVER in the real world there are more often than not holds on the slab. As with any other type of climbing, connecting these holds is the key. If you have any experience in slab climbing you will know that even the tiniest pimple or dish can be extremely helpful to stave off the slide 'n tumble. The less moves over holdless spots you need to make, the better. That is why being tall helps, because taller people often have longer legs which allows them to reach further to the next dimple. One less move to be able to reach one of those well-spaced bolts is also a tremendous advantage of being tall when slab climbing. So please, no more whining you tall people. How's the weather up there anway?

Though I refuse to advocate soloing, the way down the N ridge of the Tooth is a bit easier, and is a good alternative if you are comfortable on 4th class. I have not car-car'd the Tooth in under 2 hours.

I think Jens is thinking of the face-climbing aspect of slab climbing. With rare exception, you do use "holds". It's just that the holds are just more sticky spots. The common move on slabs is rocking on to a hold then pressing it out. It's an advantage to be able to reach that foot further up and around. I'd think being tall would help this reach, though maybe not if the length between your knee and foot were much longer than between your hip and knee. For pure friction climbing (everything is a hold/nothing is a hold) height probably doesn't matter.