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  1. Today
  2. Most REAL experiences climbing

    If by "real" you mean experiences where you are really present in the moment because things have gone sideways, I've had a few. Thankfully no major injuries or deaths. One was when a long time partner and friend set off to lead that last pitch on Moby Grape on Cannon Cliff. He got stuck below a corner running with water and set up a belay to bring me up to see the situation for myself so we could decide what to do. Unfortunately, he set up the belay in the running water and was quickly becoming wet and hypothermic. It was twilight and we had about 30 minues before dark. I had to do a series of aid and free moves up that soaking steep corner quickly to get us out of there before we got in real trouble. That was my time doing more than one or two moves of aid, and my inexperience heightened an already tense situation. Fortunately it all worked out. I remember crawling into the shrubby trees at the summit just as it got dark and quickly setting up a spider web anchor to bring up my partner. We got him into dry clothes and walked down in the dark together via the top of the Old Man of the Mountain. Tragedy narrowly averted.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Lost: Ice Tools on Wy'East Face - Mt. Hood, OR

    Post Covid Bump - I topped out the Wy'East Face on May 15th and no sign of the tools. It would be really rad if someone had them and could return them. Thanks all!
  5. The pulse of really doesn’t tell you much about how acclimated you are unless you have a wealth of personal knowledge of how you’ve satted at a given altitude and how you’ve subsequently felt. there’s no hard and fast rule, and you can feel and be fine in the low 70s at 10k ft while someone else might be in the high 70s and feel like their brain is being smashed with a hammer. as an anecdote I satted in the high 60s at 14 after going to 20k. I felt fine. The other guys I was with were all around the same reading. They all felt fine, no one had ams symptoms. Listening to your body will likely tell you more than a little pulse ox, unless you’re unconscious and someone else finds you lying there with it on your finger and it’s reading in the 30s, at which point there are more pressing issues... edit: cool trip! Sweet to see what that mountain looks like up close!
  6. for sale ***RAB XENON JACKET***

    The jacket has been hanging in the hall closet in a dry environment for some time and was used very little in town. The jacket has. no rips, tears, smells, stains etc. The jacket fits me well as I am: Weight: 160 lbs, Height: 5’ – 10”, Chest: 39.5”, Waist: 36”, and Sleeve Length: 33. FEATURES: Size MEDIUM Fit: Regular PrimaLoft® Gold Insulation Active (60/m2) Insulated Hood Hem drawcord YKK Lightweight Zipper Nylon Shell Fabric Pertex Quantium 2 YKK® zipped hand warmer pocket Elasticated cuffs Measured Total Weight 12.3 oz. >>>>>>YOURS for $110 shipped FREE in CONUS<<<<<< I accept PayPal as payment. I prefer Friends and Family, OR add 3%, that is fine too. Price includes standard USPS shipping in CONUS only.
  7. Most REAL experiences climbing

    Very funny. Nolse emailed and asked for beta before he went up the Girth Pillar. I told him I was not a good person to ask.
  8. Adams Climbing Permit?

    Yes, this the online permitting system is new this year. We climbed Adams on August 23rd. We had been told the day before by rangers that they would not be checking permits, but to be aware that if a rescue was needed it would be a long time until one came. There were quite a few people skiing at above 7000ft on the day we climbed.
  9. Most REAL experiences climbing

    Hmm. Both events I think of are rather involved tales. Coming untied 1800 feet off the deck as it was almost dark on an early ascent of The Happy Hooker V 5.10 A3 on Trono Blanco in Northern Baja was the peak moment of a very formative climb which included a monster fall leading my first aid pitch ever. Being on Mt Rainier with Willi Unsoeld when he and student Janie Diepenbrock died in an avalanche was pretty influential also. They're both kind of magazine article length stories perhaps best told over a campfire.
  10. Three O'Clock Rock

    That would be fun!
  11. Last week
  12. for sale Books for sale

    Got a few books for sale Shipping is $3 regardless of the number of books, or local pickup in the methow valley.Traditional lead climbing - $SoldThe Outdoor knots books - $soldWilderness Navigation - $soldSpeed Climbing $5How to climb 5.12 $SoldDevil in the white city $2The spirit Catches you and you fall down $2Cycling Ireland (great resource if your biking/touring there) - $15Rick Steve's Scotland 2nd ed - $5Hot Springs of Western Washington $5Medicine for Mountaineering $sold https://imgur.com/nmdTwVs
  13. Most REAL experiences climbing

    I've had quite a few... Top 5: 1. Nearly killing Jens Holsten with rockfall after the belay ledge I was standing on broke and sent a couple refrigerator sized blocks which turned into thousands of chunks of flying schrapnel towards him on the last rap off of DOE after climbing and scrubbing it over two days prepping it for the FFA which Jens sent the next day. 2. FA'ing the Kittly Litter Direct pitch on the Dissapearing Floor Route on Mt. Hardy with Jimbo Shokes. Ran it out 50--60ft on 10- terrain before a harrowing mantle with my hands dug into kitty litter gravel. 3. Catching a 30ft whipper 1/3 of the way up the Jaded Lady on Mt. Hooker when Matty Van Biene took a wrong turn and powered up a steep flake system which eventually broke off. He was just going for it way run out on steep overhanging 11+/12- terrain. Went on to finish the route taking about 16 hours of which the last 4 were spend climbing wet 5.10 offwidth in the dark, then shiver bivying on top until sunrise. 4. Shiverer bivering with Blake and Jens after sending the FA of GITM: https://www.bluewaterropes.com/blog/shiverer-bivering-the-f-a-of-gorillas-in-the-mist-2/attachment/shiverer-bivering-the-fa-of-gorillas-in-the-mist-2/ 5. Somehow not dying by jumping off the belay ledge when Blake broke off a large block above me on Inspiration: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web14x/wfeature-picket-range-herrington-wertkin-best-pitch
  14. Sauk River Road Access?

    Further evidence of road being open to TH: https://turns-all-year.com/trip-reports/glacier-peak-all-to-ourselves
  15. Most REAL experiences climbing

    Is that when you left your neutrino there?
  16. Most REAL experiences climbing

    I fell off of the Girth Pillar. That was really real and really sucky.
  17. Spring Ice in the PNW

    Just saw a report that that the Right Gully on NF Hood goes, but is on its way out.
  18. Sauk River Road Access?

    Just did a quick look around and there is a trip report from a couple days ago that says the road is passable: https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/trip-reports/trip_report-2020-05-27-0675102672 Out of curiosity, can you point me to the webpage where it says the road is closed? I wasn't able to find anything. We were planning to climb Glacier Peak last weekend but we postponed because of the weather. I wasn't aware of the possible closure, that would have been a surprise!
  19. Here are some pics from an attempt in 2016. terrain typical of the first half of the route leading up to the aid pitch aid pitch runout chimney pitch
  20. You are correct that the Hogsback shifted. It goes back forth and has done so for centuries. It is well documented. While that does change the route some and where people may go, my comment was more of an overall assessment of climbers these days just going for or being given a second tool way too early rather than learning good technique. Which for lower angle slopes is not efficient and later becomes a crutch because they lack they proper technique. I will be honest taking a new person who was correctly placed in the middle and giving them two tools gets them up the hill in the short term but does nothing for them long term in making them a competed climber.
  21. Trip: Mt hood - Hogs back Trip Date: 05/27/2020 Trip Report: Great conditions. Recommend leaving between 12am-1. The mountain falls apart with sun. 6 hours to the top. Left hand side of pearly gates were awesome. The old shute is tracked out and a missile zone. Crowds dependent. Bring skis if possible and leave at Paulmer lift. Gear Notes: Crampons, helmet, one ice axe Approach Notes: Standard
  22. Hi ScaredSilly, I respectfully disagree. I want to say it was the early 2000's when the glacier significantly shifted. Prior to that the Pearly Gates were never that steep and almost no one climbed the old chute. For a number of years after it seemed that the old chute route was used exclusively. Now, in my experience, parties may attempt any one of the gates and/or the old chute again. I'm glad you feel comfortable with one tool. I can certainly mange the technique, however I believe our party was safer, faster, and more efficient with two. I noticed many more parties had the same idea and was simply calling out the change from my first climb in the 90's when I would have never seen anyone with a second tool. It surprised me as well. You are of course correct though, the middle climber is a very experienced back country skier who made his first summit attempt with two experienced climbers. While being roped in the middle is arguably the best place, it does provide for tricky rope management, which was a constant correct and adjust. What you can't see is his second tool in his right hand in the photo but yes, the pick in his left hand is pointed the wrong way at that particular moment as he recently shifted from having it correctly in his hand on his uphill side while traversing to a vertical ascent with his second tool in his right. That was caught and adjusted later but thanks for the observation. I know it's not the most exciting or adventurous climb but my hope in posting this TR was that someone might appreciate a current update on a popular route.
  23. Spring Ice in the PNW

    Most water ice will be melted out by now, or if still in it will be sketchy to climb. That includes things like Triple Coulouirs and North Face R Gully. Things that climb year-round ice features such as Baker's N Ridge will be the go to.
  24. Adams Climbing Permit?

    Permits have been required on Adams for sometime now. But I have never bothered mostly because I have not been on the south side in 35 years. The other sides are more interesting.
  25. Some misc ramblings. I remember from doing the route in late August of 97. We rambled up to the Angel Glacier that afternoon, mostly solo, think we used the rope in a couple of places. Had a nice bivy and watched a couple of others top out in the dark. During the night the face to the right lighted up with rock fall. In the morning we crossed the glacier, no cracks that I remember. The bergshrund was interesting as I literally burrowed a hole through it. The lower slopes were straightforward. The pillar my partner John lead as he swapped out his boots for rock slippers. His secret weapon. Some where above I lost my lead head so John lead for a while but then bonked as it got dark. I remember coming around a corner and here he was both tools in marginal névé and a couple of crappy nuts for a belay. My turn. Mean while it was now pissing sideways with snow and all I could see above me was a huge ass cornice. I resigned myself to having to tunnel my way through it. I told John to just talk to me as lead out. I as I went up I found some good pro, that was a relief. Finally, I made my way up to the cornice and found that if I went to the right I could by pass it. And much to my surprise I walked right up to the summit. It was now a full on gale, we bivied in the rocks and unfortunately John dropped his bivy sac so I took the outside. In the morning we headed down the west side. It was casual. I remember getting down into a nice meadow to take a break and failing asleep on my pack. I woke when I rolled off of it and into the mud. When we got to the road we snagged a ride back to the parking lot by a couple of climbers. Oddly enough I gave them the picks from my tools as they had broken a couple. I might have a few pictures but need to did through the archive.
  26. Most REAL experiences climbing

    Oddly this weekend I was sorting through stuff and read through a log I kept whilst making my second attempt on the East Buttress of Denali. Probably one of the most real and most humbling experiences because I had to call for the rescue after my partner and I were avalanched by a collapsing serac. I compare that experience to having a couple of semi trailers full of bowling balls dumped on ya. I was in the better place so my partner took the brunt of it as well as being dumped in to crevasse. After schlepping him out and back to a safe location I had to go back up solo through crevasses and retrieve gear, then call for a rescue. We got short hauled off with no assistance (a first on Denali). That was a wild ride but with great views. Eight years later I returned and did the Cassin, I remember our bivy at 15,500 on the face and with the feeling of just being out there. That said, what has been the most real are the partnerships. Egging each other on, or saying fuck it lets go drink beer. Either way we're happy.
  27. A couple of comments, glad ya got up and down without incident but a few observations. The route has not changed, people have. People have skipped learning to be competent with a single tool and immediately go to two tools. So while one may feel way more secure using two tools in a low-dagger position that feeling is misplaced. And for what ever reason when I look at your picture it reminds of years ago when I went by three climbers in about the same place, all with their axes also in their left hand which was the the down hill side. Just after I passed them they all went sliding down the Hogsback. May just be the perspective. That said, the middle climber needs some mentoring on rope management so to keep it out from under their feet.
  28. [TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 05/24/2020

    @PorterM Yeah had pick weights on them and it was no problemo with the hard glacial ice. The set of them is close in weight to one of my nomics. I personally loved using the two Gullys. They will definitely be my choice from now on for the ambiguous AI2-3 with little to no mixed climbing.
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