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Trying to do some bike -> climb this summer since taking a car all the time proved problematic with my family last year. Also saves on gas and I got the time. Definitely want to get out to cascade river road since it was closed last summer. Maybe a northern pickets traverse and the ptarmigan??? I just want to get out for longer overnighters really. Bike's mostly ready by now after a little sewing. Just need some new tires - lmk if you got any 27.5" tubeless compatible gravel/road tires you're tryna sell

Here is the plan. Just scrambling. Stein Valley Traverse Stefan Feller - CalTopo

Nice, way to get out and learn, does look a bit icy there, just the way conditions go, sometimes it all warm and sunny!

Trip: Ingalls Peak - South Ridge Trip Date: 04/21/2025 Trip Report: Been getting out a good amount but mostly ski-mountaineering. Since this was a more climbing-y thing, I figured I’d post it on here. With Monday off, I wanted to get one more trip out of the Spring break by giving an early season attempt on Ingalls. Mid-day Sunday, Asher and I drove out to Esmeralda and got the car a little past Beverly Campground. We began walking at 16:00 and set up camp at around 6000’ at 20:00 a little below Ingalls pass. I had my splitboard, Asher had snowshoes. My lighter ended up freezing so we had cold soaked oatmeal and fresh carrots for dinner. The next morning we got moving around 06:30 and were at the base of the South Ridge of Ingalls at around 08:30. There was more snow than expected overnight so but I figured I’d at least give it a shot. We started by booting up an entrance couloir. The top of it contained a dusting of snow above a slab, but a short little boulder move brought us onto a sub ridge. From here we butt-scooted a little bit until we reached the rock. A short little step brought us to the belay. Here I roped up and started up the route in ski boots. The rock was very icy with lots of snow in the cracks, but with big cracks, it was still reasonably comfortable with ski boots. I found the passive pro super useful with the icy cracks. Honestly I should've brought way more nuts. Eventually I got about 30 meters up and found myself stuck. I stuck my Gully in a crack, tied in direct, and switched from ski boots to climbing while backed up by a hex. I was feeling pretty patagonian by now… on a 5.4. I looked around but decided to try and follow a crack system on the left. Asher lowered me off the hex and belayed me as I traversed across closer to the ridgeline. Here looked more promising so I continued climbing up. Higher up the crack, I was nearly postholing in climbing shoes. Near about 40 meters, at the top of P.2, I reached a band of snow and Ice. I couldn't continue up and eventually placed in a bomber nut and lowered off after bounce testing it while backed up. Halfway down I pulled the rope again and got lowered off of a nice slung horn. I think it could’ve been possible by drytooling but I wasn’t quite desperate enough to scratch up such a popular route(also I’m definitely not that confident of a drytooler). I’ll hopefully be back this summer anyways to link up the ridgeline between Ingalls and Sherpa. Anyways, once I arrived back at the belay, we found an older rap anchor to make a final rap to the approach gully. I got some consolation turns as Asher suffered on snow shoes. We got back to camp and kept going down. We ended up back at the car by 16:00, just 24 hours after leaving. While we didn’t get the summit, it was still a great time getting out and I learned a few things about winter climbing. The truth is we just had a lot more snow and ice than expected, and climbing an icy slab without drytooling is next to impossible. Better than sitting around in the city. Next person up the South Ridge gets a little booty! Always good to learn to bail. https://lucasfng.blogspot.com/2025/04/ingalls-peak-attempt-420-4212025.html Gear Notes: Should've brought more hexes and Nuts for the wintery conditions. Anchors not visible Approach Notes: 2 hrs to walk/skin the road

We did the traverse two summers ago. It's a beautiful peak.

Now that is rare!!!

Oh, and have a week planned in the Wind River Range in July. Family trip to Banff and Canmore in August. Alas, that will just be me looking at the pretty mountains instead of climbing them.

I spent a couple of weeks in Norway and I loved it. Their hut system is fantastic. All you literally need to bring is a sleeping clothes if you want. It is worth becoming an annual member to their hiking society so you can get a universal key that will unlock all of the public backcountry huts in the country.

Somebody wants these! I couldn’t let them sit in the goodwill. Currently mounted on ancient Dynastars, I would put them in some 130 cm kids skis for fun approach tools and corn snow. These should fit most crampon compatible boots. They may or may not release as reliably so I don’t recommend them for resort skiing! Yours if you bring/buy me a good beer! I’m in Lake City Seattle.

Uranus? 🪐

i'd rather approach from sunrise and get mineral too

Chimney is the only Smoot I have left. I'm stoked for it!

He's 23. i've posted up trips with him before (eg easy mox 2021). but yeah i've been remiss lately

Some of you might be interested in this guide... Central Oregon Rock

Redstone and Tyee might be approachable from Lake Eleanor. Or just ebike to Ipsut Campground using the Foothills Spur Trail and Carbon Road above the bridge?

Non-union fracture in my foot has taken me out of the game.Some used lightly, some not used at all. Good quality brands. Probably close to $1000 new...make an offer

How old is your son? Post us some pictures and dad beta!

I have three left: Mineral, Tyee, and Redstone. I plan to get those in the fall via some variation of the northern wonderland trail loop.

I thought you already climbed Challenger? Chimney Rock scares me; no desire. Whitney is a state high-point I haven't done yet. I don't do well with paperwork and government. Headed to AZ, NM in May and might collect those.

I still have seven Irish Cabin Peaks missing from my sash. And my time spent in the PRWA is less and less. Now that the road is closed, I might not make the list! Still need Pitcher, Redstone, Squaw, Tyee, Mineral, Gove, and Castle.

I'm going to be recovering from shoulder surgery all spring. Hopefully if I have my strength back I'll be able to get the following: Challenger Chimney Rock Whitney, E Face (with my son!) And there would be a bunch of other climbs and scrambles too.... opportunistically grabbed

I snuck in and bagged Pitcher Mountain the day before they closed the bridge. What luck, eh?

badass shit brohemian what's the free climbing look like

There is plenty being said these days I don’t like that I don’t respond to. You made a comment about me in a conversation with me. What planet do you live on where somone wouldn’t respond to that? 😂😂😂

Take a deep breath, Oly. You don't have to respond every single time someone says something you don't like.