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#1059405 - 02/27/12 08:38 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: jpl]
ScaredSilly Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/01/06
Posts: 1098
TRs: 9 Photos: 26
Loc: Ootah, USA
Originally Posted By: jpl
Hi everyone, new to the board. My brother and I have wanted to climb Hood for years but have never gotten the chance and have decided to try to make it happen this year. What times of year are the best to climb Hood and then what are the climbing conditions like now? Any guidance will be greatly appreciated.


I would suggest that for the first time you look at early June. Longer days, warmer temps, more stable weather. I would also suggest planning a mid week venture up the hill - fewer people.

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#1059426 - 02/27/12 09:57 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: JWebster]
prussik1 Offline
journeyman

Registered: 09/19/08
Posts: 93
TRs: 1 Photos: 0
Loc: Portland, OR
Avalanche conditions are a real consideration anywhere on the mountain where the slope is above 20 degrees. West Crater rim avalanches ALL THE TIME, as does Wy'East and all other routes. I would recommend checking NWAC avalanche forecasts and weather forecasts from NOAA religiously before you climb, and then determining your acceptable level of risk. As it seems you have noticed, we have a one-day weather window before a fairly significant front will pass through.
Good luck!
_________________________
"The shortest distance between two people is fun." William S. Glasser, PhD

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#1059512 - 02/27/12 10:20 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: prussik1]
jpl Offline
stranger

Registered: 02/26/12
Posts: 6
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Seattle
Hey guys thanks for the info and Ben - Thanks for the photos/trip report.

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#1061653 - 03/17/12 01:27 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
B Deleted_Beck Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/11
Posts: 790
TRs: 8 Photos: 175
Heading up for IRock tonight... anybody else gonna be on the 'tain?

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#1061654 - 03/17/12 01:56 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
The Ospray Offline
journeyman

Registered: 12/22/10
Posts: 93
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Sounds really nice up there!

This Afternoon: Snow showers. High near 7. Wind chill values as low as -12. West wind around 17 mph, with gusts as high as 29 mph. Chance of precipitation is 80%. Total daytime snow accumulation of 7 to 11 inches possible.

Tonight: A 50 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 2. Wind chill values as low as -13. West wind between 8 and 17 mph, with gusts as high as 25 mph. New snow accumulation of less than a half inch possible.

Sunday: Snow showers likely. Mostly cloudy and cold, with a high near 3. Wind chill values as low as -19. West southwest wind between 9 and 14 mph, with gusts as high as 20 mph. Chance of precipitation is 60%. New snow accumulation of 1 to 3 inches possible.
_________________________
ROCK!!!

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#1061655 - 03/17/12 02:02 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
B Deleted_Beck Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/11
Posts: 790
TRs: 8 Photos: 175
Gonna be cold as a mufucker, but it shouldn't be too bad at 9,500'. Monday was looking good too, last time I checked, but then my wife reminded me that I'm supposed to be taking my 1,000 year old grandmother to Spirit Mountain on Monday. Wrong mountain.

Wait and wait and wait and wait for good weather, and it happens during a once-a-year event that I cannot bail on.

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#1061656 - 03/17/12 02:03 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
The Ospray Offline
journeyman

Registered: 12/22/10
Posts: 93
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Well that is the NOAA forecast for 9,000....
_________________________
ROCK!!!

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#1061658 - 03/17/12 02:12 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: The Ospray]
B Deleted_Beck Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/11
Posts: 790
TRs: 8 Photos: 175
Originally Posted By: The Ospray
Well that is the NOAA forecast for 9,000....


Word. I was just adding commentary.

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#1061751 - 03/18/12 07:27 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
noonsky7886 Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/02/11
Posts: 5
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Heading up the classic south side tonight, hopefully will be back down before noon on Monday, the report looks pretty good, although cold as hell.

Tonight: Scattered snow showers, mainly before 11pm. Mostly cloudy, with a low around -8. Wind chill values as low as -34. West wind between 16 and 21 mph, with gusts as high as 31 mph. Chance of precipitation is 40%. Total nighttime snow accumulation of 1 to 2 inches possible.

Monday: A 50 percent chance of snow. Mostly cloudy and cold, with a high near 7. Wind chill values as low as -34. Windy, with a west wind between 26 and 30 mph, with gusts as high as 45 mph. New snow accumulation of 1 to 3 inches possible.

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#1061753 - 03/18/12 07:36 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
B Deleted_Beck Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/11
Posts: 790
TRs: 8 Photos: 175
The report isn't to be trusted, at the moment... it was pretty fucked up on the mountain today.

Not saying don't go, but make sure you're totally prepared for whiteout and heavy snow.

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#1061754 - 03/18/12 07:47 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
noonsky7886 Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/02/11
Posts: 5
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
thanks for the up to date info! totally aware of the possible whiteout condition, so our party is pretty much going to play it by ear anyways.

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#1061769 - 03/18/12 08:44 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: B Deleted_Beck]
The Ospray Offline
journeyman

Registered: 12/22/10
Posts: 93
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Originally Posted By: Ben B.
The report isn't to be trusted, at the moment... it was pretty fucked up on the mountain today.

Not saying don't go, but make sure you're totally prepared for whiteout and heavy snow.



Ummm how is the report not too be trusted? Sounds like it did exactly what I would have expected it to do, as I attempted to point out before... But I guess to each his own eh! brew

Monday: A 50 percent chance of snow. Mostly cloudy and cold, with a high near 7. Wind chill values as low as -34. Windy, with a west wind between 26 and 30 mph, with gusts as high as 45 mph. New snow accumulation of 1 to 3 inches possible.

If that's not enough to deter you, I dont know what is...
_________________________
ROCK!!!

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#1061776 - 03/18/12 08:54 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: The Ospray]
Plaidman Offline
old hand

Registered: 07/03/07
Posts: 993
TRs: 24 Photos: 329
Loc: South slope of Mt. Tabor
Considerable avalanche danger according to Northwest Avalanche Center

See here:
http://www.nwac.us/forecast/avalanche/current/zone/13/
_________________________
Why is patience a virtue?
Cause not many people have it.
http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing

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#1061777 - 03/18/12 08:58 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: Plaidman]
The Ospray Offline
journeyman

Registered: 12/22/10
Posts: 93
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Originally Posted By: Plaidman
Considerable avalanche danger according to Northwest Avalanche Center

See here:
http://www.nwac.us/forecast/avalanche/current/zone/13/


Plaidman, you read my mind! I was just going to edit my post to add that. Cheers buddy brew
_________________________
ROCK!!!

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#1061787 - 03/18/12 11:16 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
Water Offline
veteran

Registered: 04/12/09
Posts: 1381
TRs: 8 Photos: 182
Loc: pdx
i check the weather with a religious fervor out of simple fascination with the remote telemetry, web cams, NWAC, and NOAA meteorologist discussion and it all coming together.

don't believe I've seen anything i'd call a climbing window in a few weeks, but maybe just me.. seeing whats on the tail end can sometimes show your window to be something with some squeeze vs slamming shut like a bank vault door..which is sure as hell what it looks like monday eve.
_________________________
feel free to feel free

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#1061800 - 03/19/12 09:54 AM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
mhux Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/18/10
Posts: 228
TRs: 2 Photos: 10
Loc: 11worth
Saturday it called for 4-8" but ended up being sunny and consolidating the newer snow (up at pea gravel ridge), we were worried about the avy report but the snow (due to sun? couldn't have hurt) was as stable as it gets...killed the powder though!
Yesterday (Sunday) it was supposed to be stormy as well, but mostly blue skies again (luckily we found a protected aspect with 6" blower) smile
Can't say the weather report was spot on this weekend but it sure was coming in Sunday afternoon!
Ben B. you're crazy to want to hit I-rock with the high below 10F, I already feel bad for the belayer...I'd say screaming barfies but its doubtful you'd get the feeling back wink
_________________________
"The simpler you make things, the richer the experience becomes."

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#1061857 - 03/19/12 07:44 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
B Deleted_Beck Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/11
Posts: 790
TRs: 8 Photos: 175
When I say "fucked up," we still climbed. We didn't get on the Rock, but only because my partner's crampons wouldn't fit his rental boots, and we didn't realize we could have traded (mine would have fit on his boots and vice versa) till about 8,500', and he'd left the 'pons in the car. Why carry 5lbs of useless metal?

The report I read called for scattered snow showers and mostly sunny skies. I totally expected periods of white-out... but I did NOT expect 50-200m visibility ALL DAY. The snow was constant, not scattered... it wasn't heavy all day, but it was heavy for hours at a time.

But we did voluntarily stay on the mountain through it all, and would have done I-Rock still, if'n we'd had two sets of crampons. The wands we brought would have been essential... straying farther than 100m from the lift was dangerous- EXTREMELY disorienting not being able to see anything but white, nor even distinguish the ground from the air.

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#1061858 - 03/19/12 07:52 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
B Deleted_Beck Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/11
Posts: 790
TRs: 8 Photos: 175
Got some ice bouldering in... not the awesome MI climb we were hoping for...


WHAT was I climbing, you ask?


Shh.

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#1061954 - 03/20/12 12:51 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: B Deleted_Beck]
astrov Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/20/04
Posts: 473
TRs: 1 Photos: 22
Loc: Portland, OR
he he he. dumb*ss partner of yours, too.


Edited by astrov (03/20/12 01:05 PM)
Edit Reason: Edit profanity. This is a fambly website!
_________________________
In the beginner's mind, there are many possibilities. In the mind of an expert, there are few.

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#1061990 - 03/20/12 04:09 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: astrov]
B Deleted_Beck Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/11
Posts: 790
TRs: 8 Photos: 175
Originally Posted By: astrov
he he he. dumb*ss partner of yours, too.


Where's the TR??

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#1062002 - 03/20/12 05:50 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: B Deleted_Beck]
astrov Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 07/20/04
Posts: 473
TRs: 1 Photos: 22
Loc: Portland, OR
let's climb it on Friday; then I'll post one!


Edited by astrov (03/20/12 05:51 PM)
_________________________
In the beginner's mind, there are many possibilities. In the mind of an expert, there are few.

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#1062128 - 03/21/12 07:10 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: B Deleted_Beck]
Joe_Poulton Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/12/01
Posts: 378
TRs: 1 Photos: 46
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Nice photos.... yoda


Edited by Joe_Poulton (03/21/12 07:15 PM)
_________________________
Joe Poulton
Poulton Imaging
about.me/poultonimaging
poultonimaging.com
CIGP

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#1063923 - 04/07/12 06:36 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
B Deleted_Beck Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/11
Posts: 790
TRs: 8 Photos: 175
Who did Flying Buttress today?

Erf - East Crater Wall (shit pile to the top of Steel Cliffs)


Edited by Ben B. (04/07/12 08:53 PM)

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#1064283 - 04/10/12 05:15 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: KirkW]
mhux Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/18/10
Posts: 228
TRs: 2 Photos: 10
Loc: 11worth
Does anyone know if the NF gullies have ever been skied? To be honest I've always got shut down by weather the times I've tried to get up there, so pardon me if that's ridiculous.
Also, there's a great couloir on the east face, to the right of what I believe is the black spider/arachnaphobia wall, has that ever been skied as well?
_________________________
"The simpler you make things, the richer the experience becomes."

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#1064289 - 04/10/12 05:56 PM Re: Mt Hood [Re: mhux]
pcg Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 08/25/10
Posts: 448
TRs: 0 Photos: 51
Loc: OR
Originally Posted By: mhux
Does anyone know if the NF gullies have ever been skied?

Pretty close...
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=966443

Also I recollect that many years ago someone happened to be on the summit with skis when a couple fell off the Cooper Spur route and onto Elliot Glacier. This fellow immediately followed their route down on skis to offer assistance. Tragically they had expired. I'm not sure the route he skied, but DH would probably know.

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