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Jens, Sol ! Where is it already???


wayne

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No news flash here..These guys have been on a crazy ripping tear lately. We are just lucky that they modestly tell us a little about it on occasion. Can you say Golden Age Redux? I think they need a nick-name and their own star room in our little hut. It is a dazzling time they are having up there lately! Congrats on your lives, not just some climb!

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The tr might take some time. As jens's blog says we made the FFA of Dragons of Eden on July 22nd. The line clocked in at spicy 12- and is the most inspiring chunk of stone i've been on in the Cascades. Photo courtesy of Max Hasson.

 

 

headwall_pitch3_3.jpg

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The 12a pitch on DOE is quite solid...75% of the pitch is on difficult ground...a fight all the way to the end. Something to consider for those who want to do the route, but are not up for the spicy 5.12...Blake and Pete repeated (they did not summit) DOE with a variation that is around the corner and off to the right. Their pitch went at 5.10. Sol and I noticed this variation and I think it will be climbed often. That said, so will the 5.12...it is clean, hard, sustained, and technical, really one of the best pitches in the Enchantments (if not the best). You guys should all go take a lap! let's clean this thing up. Sol and I only had three days for this project so I did a lot of selective cleaning for myself to send...repeat suitors will find a lot of grain that needs to come off still...unless you climb the crux. Beautiful smooth stone on that one.

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Yeah that's the deal Rad. Ktaylor and Tyree recently climbed the route and claimed one of the best routes anywhere. Kris was able to get a bomber green alien in from his tiptoes on the pillar, which basically takes the R out of the crux pitch (i'm glad we didn't fix a pin).

 

They were able to onsight a number of pitches, made a proud free-attempt burn, and unlike Blake and Pete felt the grades were spot on for every pitch.

 

Thanks for the patience with the TR everyone, i'll write it early next week.

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