[TR] Prusik Peak- South Face Beckey Route 7/2/2006

[olyclimber]

Climb: Prusik Peak-South Face Beckey Route

 

Date of Climb: 7/2/2006

 

Trip Report:

Hansel and I climbed the South Face of Prusik on Sunday via the Beckey Route, but instead finished via the direct .10a splitter handcrack that is on the east face of the highest summit block (it is described in Kearney's guide). Climbing the South Face ofPrusik has been a wet dream of mine since I read about Beckey's Cashmere Crag Club exploits. Also, just getting into the Enchantments to see everything was a goal that I had not been able to fulfill until now. I had been on the edges (a failed attempt to climb the Flagpole, a solo hike up the Colchuck Glacier to Colchuck Peak), but never into the heart of the Enchantments. Hansel had climbed the Burgner/Stanley twice before, so he was interested in something different, so we chose the Beckey route. In case you were wondering who Annabelle's big hunk was:

The crap about how wonderful and beautiful the Enchantments are...well that stuff is true.

Its pretty well documented elsewhere, so I'll try to spare you my gushings. I had Hansel paint me a picture of Prusik a couple of months ago, so climbing it with him was pretty awesome, and I'll be sure to remember the experience everytime I look at the painting now.

 

It was pretty hot on the hike up, but we survived, and didn't see anyone else from Snow Lake up. The approach cutting between Lake Viviane and Temple Lake put us at the base of the climb. That night Jeff saw Jesus with a dog on his head on Porpoise Point, which is the final pinnacle you can see from the

Flagpole group, which you see looking to the south below Lil Annapurna.

 

The climb was awesome, up clean granite. A nice chimney to start things off.

I meandered around a short ways above that, then my ropegun bolted straight up a full rope pitch.

Then we busted right along Snafflehound Ledges. Then up a very nice fist to hands crack.

Then up a gulley/chimney till you hit a short little lie back to the left of two possible cracks, which put us at the base of the money pitch. Money.

It is short, but you pull through a beautiful handcrack to the top of the highest summit block of a beautiful mountain. Gush. We hung out on the summit for a little while, and finally noticed some other people, a party of two climbing the Stanley/Burgner.

We rapped off to the north, there is just a little snow left on the trail.

After down climbing the West Ridge approach, I wanted to run down a take a few pictures from the southwest aspect like this:

 

....and I took a nice 7 foot fall head first off a boulder when I stepped on my shoelace. When I was falling, I took a moment to reflect on and enjoy the irony that I was going to break my arms going to take a picture and after all the climbing difficulties, but some how I managed to escape with a few scrapes.

Jeff is an awesome person to go climbing with, and you should check out his paintings of rock, though that isn't all he does.

 

Also, I was thinking of re-establishing the Cashmere Cragging Club, or is that still going? I would definitely like to go back and visit Boxtop, High Priest, and the rest of that ilk.

On the hike out I killed 8 in one blow...eight mosquitoes feasting on the blood from the scratches of my fall.

 

Gear Notes:

+Full rack up to #4

+Ropegun (Hansel brand)

 

Approach Notes:

+Not to much snow on the approach, but still plenty in the upper Enchantment basin.

 

+Danger! Mosquitoes!

[DirtyHarry]

Nice. We were up in the area - Temple Canyon - on Sunday too. I think the Enchantments are ugly though.

[Jopa]

[olyclimber]

[G-spotter]

So if you saw Jesus up there, does that mean you had a religious experience and you don't need to pay for a NW Forest Pass?

[DirtyHarry]

 

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Great photos. I want to climb the SF super bad. Jeff's painting is gorgeous. Does he have a gallery or website of his work?

[olyclimber]

I've been talking about setting up a website for him, but for now if you are interested, I can put you in touch with him.

[gosolo]

sweet lookin rock...and that summit pitch looks way cool. Good job and thanks for sharin

[Gary_Yngve]

Trogdor, I really want to climb SF too, though I prefer visiting the area in Aug-Oct.

[MountaingirlBC]

sweet! wish I could do that route. Maybe one day. We were on the W Ridge & saw you guys rapping down. Nice job!

 

That painting is awesome btw... can I buy a print?

[olyclimber]

I'll ask Jeff if he does prints...it is a pretty big acrylic painting...something like 4feetX3feet. I'm sure he could do something for you.

[ZimZam]

Too freakin' nice.

[olyclimber]

i took too many pictures. here are more:

 

[Billygoat]

[Otto]

Thanks for the great photos, especially like the one of the chimney on the Beckey route. Been daydreaming of doing that for a long time; only having done Burgner-Stanley. Now I'm more stoked than ever!

[ken4ord]

Nice this is one route I want to get on when I am back.

[Weekend_Climberz]

Pretty sweet trip!

 

I love the enchantments, though after dragging my girlfriend up there with the ploy that "It's an easy little hike next to some spectacular lakes", I don't think I can convince her to go back up there.

 

The pics are

[olyclimber]

maybe someday someone will find this useful:

 

[olyclimber]

Great photos. I want to climb the SF super bad. Jeff's painting is gorgeous. Does he have a gallery or website of his work?

 

http://www.jeffhansel.com/main.php