goatboy Posted February 23, 2006 Posted February 23, 2006 Hello, I'd appreciate info from folks out there who have climbed or attempted to climb the Kiwi Route on Waddington, as well as the Great Couloir Route on Combatant. Please reply here or PM. I'm curious about rock pro versus snow/ice pro that you took, time en route, and any general impressions of the quality of the routes. Thanks!!! Quote
Dru Posted February 23, 2006 Posted February 23, 2006 i think the kiwi route has been climbed all of twice? don will know. Quote
John Frieh Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 Word on the street is 2 locals are currently there attempting the first winter ascent Quote
jmace Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 Woa, thought the word was they didnt go.. if they did that would be awesome Quote
John Frieh Posted February 24, 2006 Posted February 24, 2006 I'm out of the loop... I heard they did but I've been in PHX so chances are I'm wrong Quote
Don_Serl Posted February 27, 2006 Posted February 27, 2006 it was a long time ago that i was on the Kiwi Route (before the FA, actually - broken crampon ended the attempt), but there was certainly no need for rock pro on the route itself back then. however, you're gonna need it for the summit tower, and there are rock outcrops here and there along the lower arete, so slings and nuts can be useful (and quicker to place) than screws. the route's not very steep, so in good conditions u shld be able to solo (or simul) the arete, then rope up for the glacier higher up. the great couloir seems to vary a lot. when we did the FA it was solid cramponning but not overly icy, altho we roped up for 3 pitches at the top - it's steep up high! it's probably easier/faster/more dependable to belay from rock along the side than off screws. ditto for descent - rap from slings set on the rock. how many raps also depends on the iciness - late season, you'll probably do quite a bunch! u can also go down the N ridge of the NW peak (one short rap), then descend the W face if that's not icy. if it IS icy, you're better off in the couloir where u can get easier rap anchors (unless u'd prefer to frontpoint down 400m of open face... or set innumerable Abalakovs...) btw, take a bit of care with the rap anchors in the Great Couloir - i know of one incident in which a block pulled and the "rider" took a long slide (fortunately with no ill effects). cheers, don Quote
goatboy Posted February 27, 2006 Author Posted February 27, 2006 Great info, Don -- thanks so much for the details. - Goatboy Quote
goatboy Posted March 9, 2006 Author Posted March 9, 2006 i think the kiwi route has been climbed all of twice? don will know. Hmmm, my sense is that this route has been climbed regularly... sounds like you might be thinking of a different route than the Kiwi Route? Quote
fheimerd Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 When you guys heading up there? I'm trying to put a group together for July to the Waddington-Combatant Col. I heard a group of 6 is the most economical with heli service. We have two so far. We were thinking of doing the Mcnerthney Pillar as well as others on combatant. ANybody interested in heli share to the COL in july? Quote
jordop Posted March 14, 2006 Posted March 14, 2006 Mike King has a long ranger now. Prob makes more sense just to get 4 folks and cram the gear in for one ride. Quote
fheimerd Posted March 16, 2006 Posted March 16, 2006 Alright then when only need anpther two. Anyone interested in heli-share to waddington late july or early august? Quote
goatboy Posted March 29, 2006 Author Posted March 29, 2006 FYI, I got a message from Mike King that prices have gone up quite a bit (probably due to increasing fuel prices) from what is listed in Don Serl's guidebook. More like $2880 (Canadian) + tax versus the $1600 listed in the guidebook... Quote
jmace Posted March 29, 2006 Posted March 29, 2006 Mike King has a long ranger now. Prob makes more sense just to get 4 folks and cram the gear in for one ride. bigger bird=more Money Quote
Dechristo Posted March 29, 2006 Posted March 29, 2006 It was fairly common that two would go for the $1,600 fee. Four @ $2,880 is a bargain considering fuel costs, etc. Quote
jordop Posted March 29, 2006 Posted March 29, 2006 Mike King has a long ranger now. Prob makes more sense just to get 4 folks and cram the gear in for one ride. bigger bird=more Money Nope. I asked Mike about this. The Longranger is more efficient than the old one. Maybe a bigger engine, but costs are running the same (outside of fuel cost increases). Win win for climbers Quote
luwayo Posted March 29, 2006 Posted March 29, 2006 i gave mike $1500cdn per hour for 1.8hrs in 2005. that was in the long ranger. we scored significantly, with an unplanned dovetail on the exit flight! and i made out a cheque to my 3 chums ~$180 each. as a token of our appreciation, we wanted to send him a custom "mug" with the GI's slogan - know which one i mean? boy, that slogan got too much air time at camp. Quote
G-spotter Posted March 29, 2006 Posted March 29, 2006 The gastrointenstinal tract has a slogan? Quote
luwayo Posted March 29, 2006 Posted March 29, 2006 bloody hell, i'm not smark enuf to attach the image of American GI wearing brain bucket, with steaming mug in hand. Quote
jordop Posted March 29, 2006 Posted March 29, 2006 as a token of our appreciation, we wanted to send him a custom "mug" with the GI's slogan - know which one i mean? Cheat Commandos, rock rock on? Quote
luwayo Posted March 29, 2006 Posted March 29, 2006 okay i got through some of that before my boss walked by. do it gotta spell it out: "how about a nice big cup of shut the fuck up" was offerred in copious amounts all bloody week long. in fact, it grew into offers of buckets. Quote
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