Thoughts on lost and found cams

[Pete04]

Yesterday my buddy managed to extricate an old, stuck BD C4 #1 cam from a climb we were on. Later in the day, he coincidently bypassed my BD C4 #1 I had placed but later unclipped to ease rope drag. Thinking it wasn't mine he shook it once or twice and moved on.

 

What is the consensus on using found cams? I would never use webbing or the like, but a cam seems like a mechanical device that is good until it shows cracks. Am I being stupid, cheap, or all of the above?

 

Along those lines, there is a perfectly good cam on the first pitch of The Farce at Lover's Leap in Tahoe. It's there for anyone who wants it.

 

 

Edited July 9, 2014 by Pete04

[num1mc]

Use at will without a second thought

[Drederek]

As long as it doesn't look to be in any worse shape than the rest of your cams its probably ok, but I wouldn't place it anywhere its failure would mean certain death. The real question is, is your buddy going to buy you a new cam or will you accept a bootied one in its place?

[Pete04]

thanks. I'll use it but not at any dangerous crux, as a first piece, etc.

 

Before I climb, I'll discuss who's going to buy what if a piece gets stuck. My rule is if you place it you buy it. That way if I overcam the heck out of one of my cams my partner's not out $60 and there can't be any hard feelings.

 

 

 

 

[G-spotter]

Why I think it's booty, booty, booty, that's what it is!

[Rad]

My rule is if you place it you buy it. That way if I overcam the heck out of one of my cams my partner's not out $60 and there can't be any hard feelings.

 

Might want to re-think this as it could lead to conflict. What if the leader places the cam fine, but it walks and/or the second botches cleaning it? Or the second drops it? Maybe just have an agreement to split the cost of any gear lost/left/dropped and if someone wants to take full responsibility they can.

 

 

[tvashtarkatena]

Splitting the cost of a stuck cam can help keep a good partnership positive. After all, even well placed pieces can walk.

 

There are plenty of folks out there who will sell a perfectly good climbing partnership for 30 bucks, though.

 

They tend to self identify pretty quickly.

[JasonG]

You drop it, you buy it- otherwise split it.

 

But agree that if a cam looks good, it probably is.

[tvashtarkatena]

You drop it you buy it seems like a no-brainer. It's all you in that scenario.

 

Stuck cams often have damaged wires from previous removal attempts. Check and replace as needed.

 

If the sling looks funky - it's only 6 bucks to replace it at Yates and other places.

Edited July 9, 2014 by tvashtarkatena

[bedellympian]

I've used a found #2 and used .5 and .75 cams in my rack since day one. I did the inspection, consulted other climbers I trust and started using them at the end of pitches and in anchors (where a failure is not certain death as mentioned above). They have never failed me, I have whipped on them and I trust them just as much as my other pieces... I consider them time tested

 

Make your own safe evaluation... and yes I agree, they are pieces of metal, either they work or they don't, it's usually pretty obvious when they don't.

[Ben Beckerich]

I think I would tend to be sort of indignant if my climbing partner asked me to split the cost of a stuck/dropped/lost cam with him, if I wasn't directly to blame for it. BUT.... since it was his, and it was getting us BOTH up the route, it makes a lot of sense that everyone should be willing to fork over to recover losses incurred for everyone's benefit. Glad this question came up! Better to have a position ahead of time.

 

I doubt I would ever ask someone to split a cam cost with me... unless they just plain blatantly lost/dropped it or got it stuck in some irresponsible manner. I think I'd probably wait for an offer to pay for it or at least split the cost.

 

If I dropped/lost/irresponsibly got someone's cam stuck, I'd just buy 'em a new one. Who WOULDN'T make the offer?? $60 is a lot for a little piece of springy metal, yea, but not when we're talking about making something right, especially for a good friend/partner. Even if I was broke (which happens- I ain't rich), I'd still come up with $60 to take responsibility for myself.

[obwan]

Stoppers/nuts/slings and biners are obviously no BD; but you all have covered an issue on Cams that maybe should be kicked around in the beginning - full racks can get expensive.