Pete_H Posted November 18, 2013 Posted November 18, 2013 Climax Control (11b or c) at Index is pretty good. Lots of other good technical sport pitches at the Country. Quote
boadman Posted November 18, 2013 Posted November 18, 2013 Mountain project has a pretty good route finder: 12a-13a Index sport climbs Little Si Sport New Halem Sport Routes etc. If you look through the comments, you can generally get a sense about whether or not the route would appeal to you. People do seem to forget sometimes that Index is a world class sport climbing destination for the 5.12 climber. Quote
W Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 Poor guy. Just wants some beta on a route or two and ends up with this shit show. What's the matter Pete, don't you like math? Quote
W Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 Talk=Action What do you think? I think Twight is gonna be pissed with your superior logic. I, on the other hand, think you've mathematically proven the magic of the internet. Maybe. Algebra used to piss me off back in the day. Quote
Pete_H Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 Well, I did like your equation. I'll just have to take your word for the solution since I lost my algebra skills long ago. Quote
W Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 Well, I did like your equation. I'll just have to take your word for the solution since I lost my algebra skills long ago. Don't feel bad. I think the authors of that equation simply over complicated things. In reality, what they meant was that talk is equal to zero. But the way they frame it, it implies, apparently, that talk, if accompanied by action, may actually assume some value. I will work on determining this value and report back soon. I expect the solution will involve a natural log function, so be ready. Quote
genepires Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 (edited) action + talk < action any amount of talk deters from the experience of the action for the participant and possibly the audience as well. So it would be a negative value. all this does not apply to well done slide shows, movies and books. BTW the whole A-T=0 has a problem with inconsistent units. assuming action is measured in joules and talk is measured in quantity of spittle ejected during talk. Edited November 19, 2013 by genepires Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 Perhaps the archetype of internet climbing discussion? On-topic question with irresistible adjective. Helpful response with suggestions. Response suggesting ignorance/egotism, Europe mentioned. Response to response saying responder is same. Shit-talk about sport climbing. Twight quote. Playful banter dismissing quote due to mathematical inaccuracy. Quote
eric8 Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 where is doctor flash amazing when you need him? Quote
Off_White Posted November 19, 2013 Posted November 19, 2013 Contrary to Glassgowkiss's snide dismissal, the OP asked for "favorite 5.12's" not hard ones, which in any case would only be easier that easy 5.12, right? You know, 12c or d versus 512a or b? No different than asking about favorite 5.8 cracks or whatever grade/type suits your fancy. Certainly no one in this thread has used the concept of "hard" in any manner aside from personal context, so chill out Bob. If looking for the emphasis on "project" there are several (5 I think) 12+ routes at the sandstone quarry in Tenino that are only top ropes and hence neglected, and you'd be welcome to convert them to leads. There's one 12c that's set up for the lead, and its had maybe 5 red points, and a lovely 11d that has not been onsighted yet, despite several strong attempts. It's about an hour and a half from Seattle, so maybe not close enough. Contact me if interested, I'm the property owner. Routes won't really be in shape for any length of time until spring, the sandstone is too porous hence weak when wet. Quote
slab_master Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 5.12 or even 13 is no longer considered "hard"- just fyi. Are we to assume that 5.12 and 5.13 is easy for you? When is the last time you redpointed 5.13? Quote
slab_master Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 What are some of your favorite 5.12 and up sport routes near Seattle? Specifically those that I could project pretty easily; fun, safe, and hopefully not always crowded. I spent some time working chronic last year, and some of the other stuff on WW1, but there are just too many people there so often. Yep, Little Si gets crowded, unless you can get out there mid-day during the week. Equinox unfortunately has access issues. This was kinda the crag for your grades. Nason Ridge has 1 5.13, and a couple of 5.12's, but is 2 hours away. Vantage actually has fun climbs in your range. at least one of each at 12c, 13a, 13b, and 13c or d, all pretty bouldery. Again, two hours away. Newhalem is loaded in that range. And? Two hours away! Little Si is your best bet, if your time is limited. Quote
JasonG Posted November 20, 2013 Posted November 20, 2013 Perhaps the archetype of internet climbing discussion? On-topic question with irresistible adjective. Helpful response with suggestions. Response suggesting ignorance/egotism, Europe mentioned. Response to response saying responder is same. Shit-talk about sport climbing. Twight quote. Playful banter dismissing quote due to mathematical inaccuracy. "But when the shadowy sun sets on the one That fired the gun He'll see by his grave On the stone that remains Carved next to his name His epitaph plain: Only a pawn in their game." Quote
Rad Posted November 23, 2013 Posted November 23, 2013 Great weekend to get off the couch and climb. See ya out there! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted November 24, 2013 Posted November 24, 2013 If by "project" you mean hang dogging fun rather than long term working on a high quality goal the following routes are climbable in winter even on rainy days. The top outs might be wet. I did them all in the rain. Exit 38 Flubber - ok route with some questionable rock. Wet top out. Low on the list. But no crowds. Index - sport routes right of the Zipper Roof. Climbable in a downpour. No name crag - some wet spots and top outs but ok if not too rainy. Mt Baker crag - Short wet top outs but it's real rock and outside. I was there on a very rainy day. Quote
fullofit Posted November 30, 2013 Author Posted November 30, 2013 Thanks for the help and the spray. I kindof bypassed index because all I have climbed there has been relatively thin, and I'm just not as psyched on 5.12 slab. Shangri la is fun, I really liked the 11 to the left of the twelves, but the one twelve we got on there had a spooky fall trying to get to the anchors-I would like to go back though. I am planning on trying the 13 up at mt washington, I really like the rock up there. Is there a topo for ww2 anywhere? What is the season for nasons? I'm also scared of messing up access there or at equinox, so don't want to visit until I get shown rhe way in. Hadn't heard of new Halen, will check it out. Quote
Rad Posted November 30, 2013 Posted November 30, 2013 Thanks for the help and the spray. I kindof bypassed index because all I have climbed there has been relatively thin, and I'm just not as psyched on 5.12 slab. Shangri la is fun, I really liked the 11 to the left of the twelves, but the one twelve we got on there had a spooky fall trying to get to the anchors-I would like to go back though. I am planning on trying the 13 up at mt washington, I really like the rock up there. Is there a topo for ww2 anywhere? What is the season for nasons? I'm also scared of messing up access there or at equinox, so don't want to visit until I get shown rhe way in. Hadn't heard of new Halen, will check it out. Sounds like you were on Hypertension at Shangri-La. That one is just left of the giant dihedral and starts with a boulder problem over a bulge. The last moves to the anchor are slopey if you go left. Try liebacking the arete on the right and you'll be straight over the bolt. The other two 12s are on the overhanging wall right of the giant corner. They're both super clean and well bolted. I suppose you could pitch off going for the Bladerunner anchor on the slopers and sidepulls, but if you pulled the crux these moves shouldn't stop you. The falls are clean and overhanging in any case. The newest 12-, 11+, and 11 lines out there are close by but not exactly the same crag. Glad to show you or try to send you directions. cheers, Rad Quote
Peter_Puget Posted December 3, 2013 Posted December 3, 2013 (edited) Savage Garden, willing Slave and Seawash in the Country (index) would be perfect today. They were all put up during much colder weather than now. Seawash is the runt of the litter. steel Monkey is awesome in this weather too. Edited December 3, 2013 by Peter_Puget Quote
fullofit Posted December 3, 2013 Author Posted December 3, 2013 Thanks Rad, Hypertension does sounds like what we were on. It started raining or we would have checked out another route or two too. I'm a fair weather climber, so won't be trying to go out unless it's bouldering any time soon. But if you want to send the directions to the new routes I'd love to check them out eventually too. Thanks for the help everyone, not sure what I was hoping for exactly when I put this up, but I've got a good list of routes to check out come sunshine so thank you. Quote
Rad Posted December 4, 2013 Posted December 4, 2013 Franklin's Tower - 12a? V4+, jug, V2. This is a short line just uphill from the Gun Show. Take the trail past the GS turnoff, at the second switchback look up hill and follow a faint path 100ft to the base of the route. Stick clip as the crux is off the ground. If you follow the trail past GS you eventually arrive at some super easy bolted lines at the South end of the Interstate Park cliff band. Look into the woods to your right and you'll see a glimpse of an overhanging cliff. Make your way down to it. The left steep route is Snaggletooth - 11b. Just right of it is Third Stone from the Sun - 11c. Just right of it is a 5.10 whose name I've forgotten. All of these are overhanging and stay pretty dry with minimal seepage. No sun at any of them. For that go to Shangri-La or Gun Show. Quote
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