Winter Ascent of Mt. Rainier

[Austin]

Well ladies and gents, its time for me to try and climb Rainier again since the weather didn't quite work out last time.

 

Like I said, I've got experience on Rainier (early season DC), Baker(Coleman), Hood (Old Chute), and Adams (North Ridge). I've never tried a winter climb before, but it seems like it would be awesome so lets see if we can get something planned!

 

I'll be home in WA from December 13 through January 5, shoot me a PM or whatever and let me know what works for you.

 

- TNG

[dave schultz]

I have the 28th through the 9th of January off; currently partially planning a trip to CO to climb ice or Smith to climb rock (will decide a little based on weather). I could go for a trek up Rainier; I would be on skis, though. I am new to the area but have been on the DC on Rainier in late August and the CD on Baker mid-September.

[PeterB]

I'd be game if the weather and conditions look good.

[Grey Liston]

I would also be game the 28th through the 2nd

[Austin]

Well, it looks like the 28th is going to be the day, weather permitting. I will keep an eye on the forecast (and the mountain, there's a viewpoint 5 mins away from my house) and we'll go from there.

 

Dave, if you ascend to Muir on skis you may be by yourself unless another skier decides to join us. I have a set of skis but no skins. Would you say skins have the advantage over snowshoes?

 

Also, if anyone else wants to come, the more the merrier!

 

- TNG

 

Edit: In order to have the best chance at the summit, I think it might be a good idea to plan extra "weather days" so we can wait out bad weather until it is clear enough.

 

 

Edited December 14, 2012 by Austin

[Austin]

I just got off the phone with one of my climbing buddies who will be joining us on the climb. He gets off of work on the 27th so we might head up to muir on that day and wait for you guys to get there on the 28th.

 

Can any of you leave on the 27th?

[dave schultz]

Hey - provided the terrain is skinnable (ie not too steep) skis are about 100x (actually, maybe a million times) better than snow shoes. I would not be opposed to being the only person on skis. But, as of now, I will actually be going to Montana to climb ice. If the ice trip falls apart then I would be able to slide right into a rainier trip. I am scheduled to be in MT until the 31st so I would have plenty of time if I ended up on Rainier.

 

I will give a word of caution with Rainier: the gate is highly unreliable. It WILL close at 5pm to uphill traffic, so if you want to start on the 27th you will need to be past the gate before 5pm. It is also very fickle in terms of when it actually opens. My first experience this year had it opening at 1030am (not a ton of fresh new snow); second experience it was open when we arrived at 10am (learned lesson from the first time); third experience was the day after the second experiense and the gate never opened ... we had camped in the Tatoosh and needed a NPS escort to get off the mountain in the afternoon, they never opened the gate. So ... the lesson is that the gate is highly unreliable, and splitting the arrival into two groups would not be recommended since the second group may actually never get in, and the first group would never know it ... Just a thought.

[Austin]

Good advice there Dave. We are planning on arriving in the morning so if the gate opens that day, we'll be there. After looking at the webcams today, it seems they didn't have the road plowed until about 1pm or so.

 

The only problem with skinning is that I only have the downhill style bindings. Its a total pain trying to walk uphill in those things.

 

Do you have any other winter-climbing advice?

 

Thanks

[dave schultz]

Other advice ... to be honest if you're looking for other advice maybe a winter ascent might not be in you're cards ... and a guide might be a good route ...

 

If you're a serious skier I would go get yourself an AT set up and leave all those climbers in the dust on the uphill and then you can rip it on the downhill. It's way more fun.

 

Otherwise, I would go up there with a VERY fluid plan and be ready to modify it based on the actual gate opening time, how much new snow has actually fallen and how the wind has loaded it (for group speed consideration and avi consideration), as well as all the other possible variables.

 

I assume you all are coming from sea level and thus are not acclimatized; but if the weather is good and the conditions are right, I would be prepared (as an option) to keep pushing as long as you can and possibly blowing past your original first night's camp location and possibly even summiting in a single push (highly unlikely, but in the right conditions, possible). Obviously if people start showing AMS I would reconsider, but if everyone is feeling good that's the best way to get up and back down. If you do a big push, make sure you stay hydrated or you will have big problems on the second half. The body can go a very long time as long as it's hydrated.

 

That's probably good for now ...

Edited December 18, 2012 by dave schultz

[keenwesh]

 

The only problem with skinning is that I only have the downhill style bindings. Its a total pain trying to walk uphill in those things.

 

Do you have any other winter-climbing advice?

 

Thanks

 

jeesuuusss

 

yer actually gonna die.

[Pete_H]

No matter what I think you guys should go for it.

[JasonG]

and be sure to post a TR.

[max]

Austin:

 

I've never climbed Rainier in the winter because I've never had the nuts. But I will offer the advice I've heard the most and that has made the most sense with my experiences:

 

It's all about the weather.

 

If you notice what's posted around here, you'll hear about a fair number of Hood, Rainier, and Baker climbs/partial climbs that go off without a hitch. And you'll also read a few winter epics/case analyses that invariably involve getting hit with sooner/quicker/stronger storms than predicted.

 

Combine this with something you said that piqued my ear (please don't be offended if I've misinterpreted you):

 

"it looks like the 28th is going to be the day"

 

Given the pattern of weather here (Bellingham) over the last two weeks, there's been

 

- something like 4 ft of snow in the last week

- two or three mountain storm cycles that persisted and hit hard

- maybe two periods of time with "good" weather lasting over two days. that a in seven chance of hitting it just right.

- It takes most people at least two days to climb in the summer, it WILL take longer, and you MAY get slowed down.... Your chances hitting one of these windows are poor, and you better be sure you get it right.

- It gets really shitty real fast at 11,000

- disaster situations often people making choices based on schedules, not conditions. Conditions are very dynamic now, so should your plans.

 

So, to rap it up before I sound like Grampa Telemark, pay real close attention to the weather and don't underestimate the quickness and intensities winter storms can hit in the mountains.

[alpine et]

remember if you take too long getting down, the road to paradise is closed on tuesday and wednesday now, so may as well just do a carry over and ski down Lib Ridge. It's not an ice climb if it's covered in 10' of pillowy powder, right??

[Pete_H]

For sure. In fact I'm pretty sure Thermogenesis would be in as a ski run right now. Go for it!

[Off_White]

A big thumbs up to Max's cautionary note, that's some advice you should pay attention to. Rainier in winter is nothing like that mountain in the summer. Yes, we've had years when its been a fairly easy and reasonable winter objective, but I don't think this is one of those years. Conditions are everything, and the dates you are available mean nothing, unless you'll be happy with below timberline stormy camping if that's what conditions allow.

 

Best of luck, be wary.

[ivan]

it ain't hard to understand how, in ten years, i've yet to manage a winter rainier climb

[Pete_H]

But that probably has more to do with ennui and a gallon of bergundy wine than conditions.

[JasonG]

And the fact that the summit is guarded by tuantuans in winter.

 

Seriously though, picking a date for a winter summit of Rainier, is akin to picking a winning lottery number. It may happen, but your chances sure improve if you have some date flexibility (over several months). That said, 12/28 is a particularly auspicious day.

[Austin]

Thanks for the words, Dave and Max. Of course, I would never consider ascending in DH bindings. By winter-climbing advice I was hoping to hear info that pertained to Rainier specifically, so if any of you guys (ivan?) have useful tidbits of information from your experiences on the mountain during the winter that would be cool.

 

As far as the trip goes, we are planning on heading up to Muir on the 27th. This does not mean that we'll be making an attempt the morning of the 28th! We will be bringing in as much food and other supplies as we can (probably 4 or 5 days worth) so we can wait out conditions if necessary. We've been keeping a close look at the cloud ceilings and if they stay low, we think we may have a shot.

 

As y'all have already said, this climb is 95% weather/conditions dependent this time of year. If the weather doesn't lift then that's the way it is and we turn around.

 

And don't worry, I will provide a TR!

 

Anyone still interested in coming?

[mattp]

Austin,

Good luck. Rainer is tough this time of year. You have a good plan but if it continues to storm away between now and then I would recommend standing down even if you get a good weather window. You want a warm spell followed by no snow for a few days - and good weather.

 

[dave schultz]

Austin - ice trip might not happen ... Shoot me a PM and lets discuss your trip.

 

Dave

[Austin]

Hey, so the forecast is starting to look pretty good! That is, in comparison to what we've been seeing for the past few weeks.