Austin

I see that I'm late to the party, but I'm definitely down to head up. Ive got gear, just need rope buddies! Shot you all some PMs, lets see what happens.

Hey everyone, I will have a few days during the week of May 10-May 17 to spend in the outdoors before shipping out for work over the summer. I'd really like to hike out to the Sandy Glacier Ice Caves on Mt. Hood - they are melting out fast and I'd like to see them before it is too late. The plan is drive to the trailhead (4hr 22min according to google. it is just outside of Rhododendron, OR) for the trail to McNeil point, then hike 5mi to the McNeil shack and overnight. The next day we would hike out to the Sandy Glacier (another 2mi or so it seems) and explore the caves. After that we could either overnight again or just hike back to the car and get the drive over with. FWIW, I am totally down to drive and hike all the way to the caves on the same day, and then camp on the glacier. I have a good headlamp so night/day doesn't matter. Plus, sunrise at the caves would be epic. This is just a rough plan, my days are flexible and I am more than happy to leave/come back when it is most convenient for people. Climbing gear is probably a good idea. I plan on bringing a 60m rope, climbing harness, and general glacier-travel/crevasse gear just in case something happens. Crampons and axe(s) may be prudent as well. I don't think conditions will warrant avy gear. Call/text is fastest, I can be reached at 206-371-3866.

Dave - To keep the cold out I layer what I put on my hands. For skiing, I wear a pair of military surplus arctic gloves with wool liners. They are big enough to allow me to wear a normal glove inside. Unfortunately, if its below 5-ish I have a hard time keeping things warm enough to be comfortable. For what its worth, I had no idea that I had frostbite until I got home and had a chance to research it (one of those "no time like the present" moments). On the mountain/in the shelter, seemed like my hands were just really cold. I went to sleep expecting them to be back to normal in the morning. I don't blame anyone but myself, it was my fault for not recognizing the symptoms. JB06 - I think the temp was about -10F (maybe Dave has a better idea?) and the winds varied from 15-20mph or so (again, its been awhile. Dave might remember what they were more precisely). According to the NWS chart, that would put the windchill at about -33ish. I was wearing the kind of gloves you'd wear skiing. I was used to cold hands from skiing and such, and had no knowledge about what frostbite looks/feels like which is why this injury occurred. When my hands got cold I thought, "No big deal, they'll warm up once we get back". ScaredSilly - Yep, I do the same thing. My climbing boots are sized a little big for the same reason. I was wearing Koflach Degre boots with generic wool socks. My feet stayed warm the entire time.

Some more pics! Left hand after about a month: ...then a little later, only my thumb was photo-worthy: ...then the rest! My left-thumbnail finally letting go: Two years later, my right-thumb is the only one with visible scars: Although everything looks ok (except for some calluses from splitting wood), my ring finger and thumb are extremely sensitive to cold now:

Hey everyone, I thought I'd remind everyone to watch out for cold-injuries. Two years ago (nearly to the day) Dave Schultz (he's on here as well) and I attempted the Gib Ledges on Rainier. Things were chilly, and the wind didn't help. I had never climbed that high in the winter, and as an 18 year-old college student I didn't have the bucks for the best gloves. My snowshoes didn't help either; although MSR's "lightning ascent" shoes are marketed as the ultimate shoe for mountaineering, they are FAR from it. The rubber straps do not stay secure as wind blows powdery snow in-between my plastic boots and the straps themselves. The dinky, bent piece of metal that goes through the holes in the straps sucks too. As a result, I had to stop repeatedly to re-tighten straps, which usually required me to remove my glove to get it as tight as possible. As a result of these shortcomings, along with my lack of knowledge pertaining to frostbite, I got a pretty serious case of it on my hands. It took over 3 months to heal completely. Today I contend with easily-chilled fingers (to the point of pain) and sensitive, thinly-skinned finger pads. Not to mention a 50% reduction in sensitivity in most places, even worse in others. I can still play the piano though, so I guess I can't complain too much. Now its time for pictures! 24 Hours after exposure, blistering starting on ring-finger: 48 Hours post-exposure, blisters forming nicely... One-month later: These were taken roughly 1.5-2 months after. I'm too lazy to figure out exactly when, but they are in chronological order: Once the dead flesh came off, it took weeks for the nails to fall off and then grow back. Lessons learned: - If your fingers are becoming white AND waxy. FROSTBITE IS NEAR. You probably have frostnip already, which is gross too (I'll dig up some pics of my left hand with inches of dead skin peeling off in thick chunks). - Nobody is man-enough to beat this stuff. If your hands are getting cold even though you are exerting yourself (like, say, whilst climbing a mountain...) you need warmer gloves, don't try to "tough it out" like I did. If you are already wearing your warmest gear and are still getting cold, you should probably turn around. I hope someone can learn from this. I was very lucky to keep my fingers, don't take the cold lightly.

PM sent!

That's about what I was thinking, DPS. This trip won't be happening if conditions are too sketchy. The reason I wanted to check here is because I haven't been able to find any reports/write-ups by people that have gone to the flats in the winter.

Hey everyone, I have a few questions about what Cathedral Gap is like in the winter. I'm looking to do a skinning trip with some buddies to the Flats around December 20th, but I'm unsure as to whether or not the gap will be safely passable if heavy snows hit the hill. I've been on Rainier in the winter before, but not through the gap. Any and all input is appreciated!

We are still planning on leaving this Friday afternoon! It would be awesome if someone wanted to join us.

My brother and I will be heading up to Muir on May 2. If I can get others to join us, then a summit attempt would definitely be in order. I have climbed on Rainier four times in all seasons (only one summit this past July, all of the other climbs were turned around due to weather from 11.5 to 12k) and I have climbed Adams from both sides several times. I have also summitted Hood and Baker. I climb safely and conservatively, and have a good time doing so! My brother has no glacier experience, only a climb on the south side of Adams last August, but we have been going over crevasse rescue and cramponing techniques in the evenings. I wouldn't consider going any higher than Muir if it were just me and my brother, which is why we are looking for other people to join us. We will be leaving the Renton/Maple Valley area Friday afternoon, let me know if you'd like to join us! - Austin 206-371-3866

I was also on the mountain during this time. My team and I made the summit at around 10am on July 22. While conditions weren't the best, I didn't think the route was "out". A crumbly-cleaver makes it that much more interesting lol What slowed our group down was the guided group that had to rap down the fresh icefall just above the cleaver. I think I slept for an hour before it was our turn to continue.

It's good to hear from you! The fingers held up much better than expected (skiing and backpacking w/o issue). I've gotten most of the feeling back, save for one spot on my thumb where things are a little tingly. The lib ridge sounds like a sick decent! I'll be looking forward to the TR. You should bring a GoPro or something for some video. Climb safe.

I'm definitely interested in this and I am available anytime from 3pm on Friday to 8am Monday morning (benefits of being a college student!). I've topped out on Rainier once this last season (after three previous attempts that were all shut down due to conditions) and have successfully climbed the North Cleaver of Adams. I've done Adams via the south side many times and managed to squeeze in climbs on Hood and Baker. I'm very cautious in the mountains; that's probably why I turned around so much on Rainer lol. Also, I'm only 20mins away from SeaTac airport if you need to be picked up and 1.75hrs away from Paradise if you need a yard to camp in(small house, but lots of flat grass to set a tent up on!). Let me know if you guys have room for me, - Austin Edit: I'd be down for Baker as well!

Around what elevation was the sketchy ice bridge? The reason I ask is because I'm trying to figure out if it would be viable to somehow go around it, and meet up with the DC or Gib routes earlier. Thanks

Hey guys, Me and another guy are going to be heading up Rainier the evening of the 8th (back on the 10th) and would welcome other climbers here to join us. Give me a call or text at 206-371-3866. Cheers

Don't know if you climbed or not, but if you haven't myself and another guy are going up on Wednesday and could use another climber on our team.

What turned you off of the DC route? Would you still recommend the ID over the DC even with the ice bridge traverse? Thanks for the awesome trip report btw. I'll be going up in a few days and this really helps. Cheers, and congratulations!

PM sent! Sounds awesome.

Hey, so the forecast is starting to look pretty good! That is, in comparison to what we've been seeing for the past few weeks.

Thanks for the words, Dave and Max. Of course, I would never consider ascending in DH bindings. By winter-climbing advice I was hoping to hear info that pertained to Rainier specifically, so if any of you guys (ivan?) have useful tidbits of information from your experiences on the mountain during the winter that would be cool. As far as the trip goes, we are planning on heading up to Muir on the 27th. This does not mean that we'll be making an attempt the morning of the 28th! We will be bringing in as much food and other supplies as we can (probably 4 or 5 days worth) so we can wait out conditions if necessary. We've been keeping a close look at the cloud ceilings and if they stay low, we think we may have a shot. As y'all have already said, this climb is 95% weather/conditions dependent this time of year. If the weather doesn't lift then that's the way it is and we turn around. And don't worry, I will provide a TR! Anyone still interested in coming?

Good advice there Dave. We are planning on arriving in the morning so if the gate opens that day, we'll be there. After looking at the webcams today, it seems they didn't have the road plowed until about 1pm or so. The only problem with skinning is that I only have the downhill style bindings. Its a total pain trying to walk uphill in those things. Do you have any other winter-climbing advice? Thanks

I just got off the phone with one of my climbing buddies who will be joining us on the climb. He gets off of work on the 27th so we might head up to muir on that day and wait for you guys to get there on the 28th. Can any of you leave on the 27th?

Well, it looks like the 28th is going to be the day, weather permitting. I will keep an eye on the forecast (and the mountain, there's a viewpoint 5 mins away from my house) and we'll go from there. Dave, if you ascend to Muir on skis you may be by yourself unless another skier decides to join us. I have a set of skis but no skins. Would you say skins have the advantage over snowshoes? Also, if anyone else wants to come, the more the merrier! - TNG Edit: In order to have the best chance at the summit, I think it might be a good idea to plan extra "weather days" so we can wait out bad weather until it is clear enough.

Well ladies and gents, its time for me to try and climb Rainier again since the weather didn't quite work out last time. Like I said, I've got experience on Rainier (early season DC), Baker(Coleman), Hood (Old Chute), and Adams (North Ridge). I've never tried a winter climb before, but it seems like it would be awesome so lets see if we can get something planned! I'll be home in WA from December 13 through January 5, shoot me a PM or whatever and let me know what works for you. - TNG

I happen to be coming home on winter break as well next week. Would really enjoy attempting Rainier in the shit, shoot me a PM and maybe we can get something rolling! - TNG