accident at Vantage?

[matt_warfield]

 

 

We all appreciate first hand knowledge. Climbers will talk about and analyze accidents for all eternity whether it is here or at the crag or at a bar or in Climbing Magazine or elsewhere and are prone to often speculate based on experience and conjecture.

Edited October 23, 2012 by matt_warfield

[boadman]

I hope he's ok! Hitting the ground sucks.

 

I would like to know what happened, we can all learn from each others' mistakes.

[climberjesse]

First of all does anyone know how this guy is doing? Which hospital he is actually at?

 

So I was at the base of the climb when he fell. Both me and my partner heard the distinct sound of two pieces ripping out of the rock and watched the fall. The third piece from the top actually held and had just barley started absorbing when he hit ground. His feet might have hit first slightly but he was leaned back enough that he flew back landing on his back over the edge of pedestal and really nailing his head. A helmet would have really helped.

 

The following moments where generally disturbing with his eyes rolling around in his head, his eye/head bleeding, and his wife’s screaming. I did what I could to keep him from moving his head and tried to calm his wife. In a matter of moments I was replaced by trained professionals.

 

We then hiked to the road and had firefighters on the scene in about 40 min after the incident and he was in the chopper about 1:00 later. This has got to be some kind of record.

 

He had a lot more gear in than I would have had with my feet 20’ off of the ground. This could have happened to any of us and is a sober reminder to place early and place often, especially when you are placing small gear in funky placements.

 

[Riley81]

When I climbed Crack Master Lambada I remember the pro being pretty iffy in some spots and not wanting to take a fall on numerous pieces I placed, even in the cleaner rock near the top.

[tvashtarkatena]

 

I wish the rest of you good luck in rationalizing to yourselves that something like this will never happen to you because you're too (choose one or more: smart/sober/experienced/young/old/hairy).

 

Not exactly a 'levity' thread, but that was really, really funny, Rad. Everybody else, take a breath, take yer ego out for a walk, and wish the poor guy some good healing mojo, eh?

[Plaidman]

 

wish the poor guy some good healing mojo

 

MOJO sent!!!!!

[Water]

1 person on scene said helmet was on

2 persons on scene said no helmet

 

??seems like there isn't lots of grey area, other than perhaps helmet on with loose chin strap or something like that.

 

hope for a good recovery for the guy, regardless of circumstances.

[alpine et]

1 person on scene said helmet was on

2 persons on scene said no helmet

 

??seems like there isn't lots of grey area, other than perhaps helmet on with loose chin strap or something like that.

 

hope for a good recovery for the guy, regardless of circumstances.

 

I reported back that he was wearing a helmet. I could have sworn I saw one on (didn't witness the fall) and ceratinly heard folks who did witness it say it would have been much worse without one. But I could certainly be incorrect.

[climberjesse]

I am absolutely sure there was no helmet. Watched his head snap back and his head wacked the rock.

 

 

[alpine et]

allrighty... that's a bummer... foot firmly planted in mouth... i'll just keep rubbernecking here to try and learn something then.

[KarlHelser]

Ahhhhhh..."mj"...I get it now.

[selkirk]

When I climbed Crack Master Lambada I remember the pro being pretty iffy in some spots and not wanting to take a fall on numerous pieces I placed, even in the cleaner rock near the top.

 

My thoughts exactly. Half way up that route I felt like I couldn't retreat because the gear was such shit. Thin, awkward, bulgy, and fiddly is a really bad combination. Moves were 10b but felt a whole lot more serious.

 

good vibes to the guy, and good to hear he wasn't more seriously hurt.

[Z-Man]

Good memory Nick, I expect you of all people would be in favor of wearing a helmet, even at the crags in a seemingly less serious environment.

 

No offense meant to anybody. I am very familiar with the effects of all kinds of altering substances and from a safety standpoint wouldn't recommend that people climb while using any of them. Jon's comment is well taken and I'll edit the specific reference out.

 

Climber definitely not wearing a helmet. I didn't see him place the gear. The stuff still in the crack looked good. He would have been fine if the top piece had held or if the piece below that had stayed attached to the rope. If I knew what was up with the gear, or had ever been on the climb, I may have offered different points, but I don't and haven't so I won't.

 

I appreciated everyone's professionalism, selflessness, and help on scene, made everything much easier.

 

I also hope he's doing well.

Edited October 24, 2012 by Z-Man

[CaleHoopes]

So, I'm curious (just a beginning leader), since the piece below DIDNT stay attached to the rope, do we think he back clipped?

 

We will get in the report, but I understand how his upper piece could have failed somehow, but the second piece too? Just wondering what else could have popped the rope out of the piece below.

 

Oh, and even though I'm asking this question, my thoughts are definitely with him. Anyone can make mistakes while climbing, regardless of experience and anyone can have a bad day that's no fault of their own. The only important thing is that he'll be ok and live to climb and live another day.

Edited October 24, 2012 by CaleHoopes

[jon]

Thanks everyone, better safe then sorry

[matt_warfield]

So, I'm curious (just a beginning leader), since the piece below DIDNT stay attached to the rope, do we think he back clipped?

 

We will get in the report, but I understand how his upper piece could have failed somehow, but the second piece too? Just wondering what else could have popped the rope out of the piece below.

 

Oh, and even though I'm asking this question, my thoughts are definitely with him. Anyone can make mistakes while climbing, regardless of experience and anyone can have a bad day that's no fault of their own. The only important thing is that he'll be ok and live to climb and live another day.

 

Mine are with him too.

 

But not backclipping is extremely important. I have witnessed the mysterious opening of the biner when the rope slaps it when the gate is pointed toward the direction of travel. Combined with a piece failing from above means a lot of fall.

 

Solutions (although this is all over in books or by professionals):

 

- lots of pro most importantly near the ground and placed well

- always consider the consequences of one piece ripping

- lots of attention to having the back of the biner toward the direction of travel

- draws or slings of length to make sure the pro is not altered

- make sure your hardware and software is in good shape

- belayer gives some slack but not too much, has the right device and knows EXACTLY how to use it and NEVER take their mind off the game.

- foremost, not falling is the best option. Fitness and planning for your route are good starts.

 

 

 

 

[CaleHoopes]

Hey Matt,

 

I really appreciate your response and how you summed up the things to think about. I've learned pretty quickly about backclipping and have only been caught once or twice in the gym in my lead class, so I totally get that.

 

Thanks again!

 

Cale