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Posted

Howdy

 

Looking for a fast pack that climbs well. Maximum load weight 30lbs, generally closer to 20. Needs two tool loops and compression straps on at least one side... bonus for gear loops and helmet-head clearance.

 

Some of the packs I've been looking at -

MH Summit Rocket 40

Golite Jam 35

BD Speed 40

BD Epic 45

 

Thoughts/experiences on these? Others to look at?

 

Also extremely interested in peoples' experiences with un-framed packs

 

Thanks

 

-Ben

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Posted

CiloGear.

 

Cold Cold World.

 

Hyperlite Mountain Gear.

 

 

The Jam isn't designed for climbing. BD does a decent job of pack design, but they're way heavy. MH SummitRocket is a cool pack, but the 100D nylon for most of the pack shreds too easily against rock.

Posted
CiloGear.

 

Cold Cold World.

 

Hyperlite Mountain Gear.

 

 

The Jam isn't designed for climbing. BD does a decent job of pack design, but they're way heavy. MH SummitRocket is a cool pack, but the 100D nylon for most of the pack shreds too easily against rock.

 

+1

Posted (edited)

Another +1 for cilogear. I kind of whored myself and have a 20L NWD, and a regular 30L and 45L. My only complaint after years of use is I ripped the side panels on my 30L with my ski edges with extensive A frame carrying. So I got a ski pack and fixed the slices and works great.

 

To add with the 30 L: great ice tool slots. You can put compression straps wherever you want onto the pack. The thing hugs your body is and out of your way while climbing. I'm talking head clearance and shoulder/arm clearance.

Edited by kevino
Posted

Nothing has a better capacity to weight ratio than the first gen Go-lites. I have two of the Breeze which are 35L to 40L and 15oz. They aren't as ergonomic as some but that's not much of a factor staying under 30lbs. They are no longer available but I have seen them used. Ray Jardine started the company and then sold it.

 

REI has a new category of packs, "ultralight", they have about 5 models in the category.

 

http://www.rei.com/search?query=ultralight+packs

 

I was looking at the Osprey but they didn't have my size and it still didn't come close to the Breeze.

Posted

Cilogear, local, made in PDX, work class kit. You can walk right in there and talk to Graham. Once you get over the price tag and own a Cilogear, you'll forget the cost and enjoy it every time you take it out. Seriously. Damned thing will last a long time, if you amortise the enjoyment you get from having a topnotch piece of gear over the life span, it's a real sweet ratio.

 

When I was younger I'd by cheaper stuff. Unfortunately, it later becomes and impediment to buying good stuff. (ie, well, I don't really like that item, but already own one so I don't need 2 now).

 

Ciologear soloing the Old Witch on the FA. (got the rope stuffed inside of it, the top pops on and off)

resizd_Top_of_the_side_pinnacle.jpg

 

Same gear last weekend hiking with Sadie-May the Trailer Park Flosie at Angels Rest in the Gorge.

Sadie_May_at_angles_rest.jpg

Posted

I can't second this enough. I'm a convert to CiloGear after seeing how modular and easy it is to work with these packs. I've just about replaced all my packs with CiloGear packs now... a few stragglers left, but it's good stuff.

 

Additionally, there's a bunch of ways to make em lighter. I bought their air-pump suspension pad. 3 oz replaces 1lb of suspension and it isn't horrible.

Posted
I love CiloGear packs too, but you should also consider the Wild Things Guide Pack. 30L, super durable, removable lid.

 

+1 I have had that pack for 3 years and LOVE it! Super durable, super light

Posted
I love CiloGear packs too, but you should also consider the Wild Things Guide Pack. 30L, super durable, removable lid.

 

+1 I have had that pack for 3 years and LOVE it! Super durable, super light

 

What's your typical load/route with that pack?

Posted

1-3 day rock, ice and alpine routes. Loads in excess of 30lbs at times (counting rope and water weight), though I always try to be lighter. There is only a small piece of foam it the back panel, so it basically has no suspension system. Long straps on the lid accommodate the rope and such easily.

 

Posted

Lots of support for the Cilogears... so they climb really well? Stay put, and are low-profile? They LOOK bulky, in the pics, and like they'd want to shift around more than the suction-cup packs I listed above.

 

Are they all frameless?

 

Thanks for the input, gentlemen.

Posted (edited)

just got back from another day of alpine climbing with my cilogear 30.

contents: puffy, emergency shell, lwt hoody, thin socks, rock shoes, chalkbag, full rack, 10 draws, harness plus lockers etc, 2L of water, thermos of coffee, bag of food, think leather gloves, helmet plus ninja pocket with little goodies

 

looked similar to this:

DSCN1189.jpeg

 

when climbing looks like this (and this is with approach shoes inside for walk off):

ojibway2.jpg

 

heres a few more to give you an idea of what it looks like to climb with 30l with varying amounts of content. I'm sure there are better packs out there for some people but i have been extremely happy with mine (other than the ski edge issue). hopefully this helps you decide

 

IMG_42831.jpg

 

DSCN2056.JPG

 

fully loaded with overnight gear, etc and had all the climbing gear in it earlier

P1000206.JPG

Edited by kevino
Posted

My 'frame' is a bivy sheet. Which I have used lots of times for a sitting pad or a part of my sleeping system.

 

For what its worth i've never used the hip belt and never plan to. I still find there is minimum side to side movement with it.

 

My last suggestion, just drive to PDX and check them out in person. If you're as close as google says you are, and you're that worried about it why not make the trip?

Posted

I have a Speed 40 pack. I really like the roll top feature. It handles surprisingly well for a 40L pack and is pretty light weight. It's no 28L no-frills sack but still pretty good. You can get them for about $125 on sale.

Posted (edited)
real men carry the heaviest shit possible

 

I carried a watermelon into the Enchantments once, plus wine, camping, and climbing gear. Gotta have a pack big enough to do shit like that when you feel like it.

Edited by matt_warfield
Posted

Almost bought a Summitrocket 40 today, but then I heard Mountain Shop carries and stocks Cilogear.. I'll stop in tomorrow afternoon and check 'em out in the flesh. Eyeing that 45 liter Worksack... 22 to 75 adjustability range??

Posted
Cilogear, local, made in PDX, work class kit.

Also local to the area is Figure Four. Steve makes several great packs, all of which can either carry a workload or go light and fast. I have one of his smaller packs and it is awesome! It is quite versatile for being as small as it is - I had 3 days stuffed into, and lashed to the outside of, a pack designed to go overnight at the longest! Then after I'd emptied it the pack compressed down to nearly nothing for the climb.

 

I won't say anything bad about Cilogear because if they weren't great packs people wouldn't buy them. Personally I do not own one, but that isn't to say that I wouldn't own one. I just happened to discover FigureFour at the right time. In the end I guess it's all about personal preference - whatever feels most comfortable on your back is probably the best bet. Don't let anyone else tell you what feels right for you! Afterall, when it comes right down to it you're the one who's gonna be carrying it! Take your time and do some extensive research.

Posted

2¢: spend less money. The one pocket homemade wonder of 25 years keeps going strong whereas the trick arc'tryx disco fever shredded first trip. Just sayin. mec.ca has some cheapos ready made. Course, my go to bike messenger bag is three grocery sacks strung together.

Posted (edited)
2¢: spend less money. The one pocket homemade wonder of 25 years keeps going strong whereas the trick arc'tryx disco fever shredded first trip. Just sayin. mec.ca has some cheapos ready made. Course, my go to bike messenger bag is three grocery sacks strung together.

 

I never focus on your response, only the avatar.

Edited by matt_warfield
Posted
Eyeing that 45 liter Worksack... 22 to 75 adjustability range??

I have the CG 45L worksack and like it very much. It is a great climbing pack for three days and 45L. It compresses down and is snug and stable when carrying loads that are not much over 45L. Based on your first post it fits the ticket very well.

However, while it does expand to carry 75L, it is not a great pack for carrying a load that size comfortably for long periods of time. In other words, it is not great for doing double duty as a general backpack. It expands to be one tall narrow tube and you have to snug down the shoulder straps to keep it from swinging around. It does not contour and form somewhat to your body like packs designed strictly for backpacking. I'm 145# and just did a six-day trip carrying 50#. It was not very comfortable - had to tighten shoulder straps to make it stable and the straps cut into my collarbone. Hip belt was fine. I'm in Sherwood and if you want to try mine out you are welcome to use it for a couple days.

 

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