Who Climbed What This Weekend?

[Mr._Blister]

Always on the hunt for a vicarious thrill, and having endured another family weekend (actually, it was they who endured having me around),I have to ask: Who climbed what this past beautiful weekend? Spray on, gusy and gals.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I climbed into bed with a hot chick! Then she went to Index with me and climbed some fun stuff!

There I met Alpinek and CrazyJZ. What a nut!

[This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-10-2001).]

[Dru]

I came about 6 inches and 1 small shrub away from falling off the top of the Apron at Squamish. It was quite scary. I like trees a lot more now.

[Dennis_the_Menace]

Watched 4 AYSO soccer games.

[glacier_dup1]

Freeway - I second that. And seconded that.

[chelle]

Sat: South Early Winter Spire - South Arete

Sun: Guye Peak - South Rib

Fun, fun, fun!

[dkemp]

Icy Peak - great friends, clear skies - love those mountains.

[robertm]

Chianti Spire - East Face "Rebel Yell"

Awesome climb but really kicked my ass. We did a variation to the left of P2 that started out as 5.10 fingers lieback and progressed to a 5.10+ OW Coffin that wanted to spit you out to the left other pitches were easy compared to this one.

[Ken_Duex]

Alpine Ice climb North Face, Observation Rock

Fun, easy moderate 4-pitches of alpine ice. If you don't like being on climbs where the Mountaineers are get on their website and check out their scheduled climbs and then stay off them or get some patience for the learning process.

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Ken Duex:

Alpine Ice climb North Face, Observation Rock

Fun, easy moderate 4-pitches of alpine ice. If you don't like being on climbs where the Mountaineers are get on their website and check out their scheduled climbs and then stay off them or get some patience for the learning process.

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How many screws did you need?

[This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-10-2001).]

[Ken_Duex]

7-screws (take 22cm)2-ea for both anchors and 3 in between. 40-50 runouts are about my limit w/my current experience on alpine ice although someone else would feel comfortable running it out further

[Cpt.Caveman]

Thank you!

[plexus]

Saturday: Climbed and gardened a "forgotten wall" on Mount Erie. Lost many a battle to rose bushes growing in the cracks and on overgrown trail. Right arm looks like I picked a fight with a cougar. Led Skyline Rib, came across a nice pile of poop 25 feet up it on a ledge.

Sunday: Pacific Science Center, watched Shackleton's Antarctic IMAX movie. Those guys were tougher than frozen seal blubber.

Dkemp, how was the slope on Ruth? Heading up there tomorrow. Went out to do it last Thursday but it was so dreary (and cold) we headed back after heading up the "Climber's trench on ruth Arm)

[TimL]

Climbed Liberty Crack on Fri/Sat. With a fair amount of people on the route this weekend it lived up to the status of one of the 50 crowded climbs in North America. I thought the first 4 pitches were really good and the last 5.9 pitch was good as well. The belay bolts on p9 need to be replaced. Good route, I got what I paid for!

[dkemp]

It'll go. Surface was firm but never glare ice. We set a couple screws, mostly 'cause we carried 'em all the way up there. On the descent we managed to pound in a picket while traversing above a crevasse.

see also http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000206.html

 

[Andrew_Grove]

Baked at the Smith Rock reflector oven. 89 on Sunday. The place is deserted in weather like that (no lines!) and the shade is okay. Actually had a good time.

[Andrew_Grove]

QUOTE]Originally posted by Dru:

I came about 6 inches and 1 small shrub away from falling off the top of the Apron at Squamish. It was quite scary. I like trees a lot more now.

What route? Did you leave the shrub for the rest of us?[

 

[terrible_ted]

Observation Rock

You can do it in 3 pitches w/a 60M rope. The ice was in fantastic shape through the morning. The views of the mtn. from on top (the rubble heap, not just the icewall) are as good as it gets.

Cap'n: The Ushba's definitely don't start as easily or drive as smoothly as a BD express.

-t

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Andrew Grove:

Originally posted by Dru:

I came about 6 inches and 1 small shrub away from falling off the top of the Apron at Squamish. It was quite scary. I like trees a lot more now.

What route? Did you leave the shrub for the rest of us?

The walk off from Snake over to the base of Form/Dessert Dyke actually. Skidded out on a wet streak and slid all the way down and half over the lip at the top of Whirlwind. The little tree is still there quite happily growing and waiting to save the next dumbass who underestimates the wet streak.

[This message has been edited by Dru (edited 09-10-2001).]

[vegetablebelay]

You could almost call that a vegetablebelay huh?

[Dru]

Yeah and I could call the wet streak a verticalswamp except it wassn't vertical!!!

[goatboy]

This weekend: Climbed N Ridge of Stuart (via Gendarme) car-to-car. Great way to go, light and (somewhat) fast -- took us 19 hours. Carried ski poles instead of ice ax, seemed to really speed us up descending the cascadian and slogging on trails . . . Great trip, good weather (though a bit windy around the shady gendarme, brrrrrr.)

Regarding having patience with the Mountaineers' learning process:

I'm certain that the Mountaineers teach many important skills during their classes -- but I'm not certain that they always teach (or model) consideration to other parties.

Good point that we can all check their website and avoid whatever peak they're teaching on...

But is tying up the only way off a backcountry peak for 1.5 hours really a good thing for the students to be learning? I have had similar encounters (sat on top of Ingalls peak for 3 HOURS waiting for a huge group of mountaineers to descend -- EPIC!)

I could have checked their website and not gone their -- but actually, in my particular case, there were two large parties from two different mountaineers clubs who hadn't even checked their OWN websites, and double-booked the peak that weekend. Grim.

My point: Sure, we can take responsiblity for not checking the website of Peaks to Be Avoided, but couldn't the leader of the group on Kangaroo Temple have handled the situation in a way that would have not inconvenienced other climbers to the extent that they apparently did? I fear that in cases like this its a matter of large groups being insensitive to the other parties around them, and modelling that behavior for students learning to climb.

I do agree, however, that if this type of behavior is a problem, then we (the general public) can do a better job of checking their website and avoiding them.

Steve

[terrible_ted]

I think the biggest problem the Mountaineers has is that the whole club catches shit for the actions of each member. Yin and Yang of climbing with a club. Tough draw on Kangaroo Temple (I would have let you rapp through if I was hauling a bunch of gumbies around), but I've also been stuck up on any number of rock, snow and ice routes waiting for people to clear bottlenecks. It's just part of the experience, unfortunately.

Seems to me there's at least two ways down from Ingalls, however... (Although I'll admit both require at least one rap)

-t

[This message has been edited by terrible ted (edited 09-10-2001).]

[erik]

glad i didn't go climbing with ole' dril this weekend, that is about the last thing i want is a canadian taking me out!

 

[chris_w]

I agree the mountaineers take crap for the decision of the leaders. Each trip leader makes their own decision on how to run the trip and who to let pass or not. When I am running a trip, if it looks safe, sure I will let a group pass. Now I have also run across a slow party(non Mountaineers) that won't let me pass. Your going to run across it sometime or later.

I know that when you post a mountaineers climb, it checks to see if anyone branch has it scheduled. If there is another branch, then you have to pick a different route. All routes should be limited to 1 party per day. While leading trips, I have come across another party of mountaineers that are on private climb. If you ask if they are Mountaineers, they will say yes, because they are. Maybe that is what happened to Goatboy on Ingalls, a club trip and a private trip.

my 2 cents