Mr._Blister

Whoa! That's pretty harsh. What did either of them do to deserve that remark?

I did it with Dan and Colin Hayley this summer and the approach really wasn't a big deal. Down one side and up the other. John Sharp

I am a husband and father of two boys. I lost my father to cancer when he was 60 and I was 17. I have been divorced once. And I have no idea what demons cause me to climb. I have tried to give it up twice, but always gove back to it. I wonder sometimes whether I am driven by some kind of character weakness or flaw. Because from a purely analytical standpoint, climbing makes no sense aside from the fresh air and exercise. And those benefits can be obtained without ever leaving the beaten trail. Go figure. Maybe my therapist can figure it out.

Always on the hunt for a vicarious thrill, and having endured another family weekend (actually, it was they who endured having me around),I have to ask: Who climbed what this past beautiful weekend? Spray on, gusy and gals.

Never mind. I read Loren's excellent TR on his website. He and Jens had loads of fun on the route. John

Sounds like you gave it a good try. When Jim, Bob and I downclimbed it, we were a day late coming off the N.E. Rib, tired, hungry and thirsty. It sucked, and was as mentally tedious as it was physically exhausting to face in for so long. The snow was very hard, but not yet reduced to alpine ice. Our aluminum crampons and light-duty axes were sufficient, but did not inspire tremendous confidence, especially at the top. I'm sure it's much more entertaining to climb up than down. Has no one else done this one? John

Anyone climbed this couloir in late season when it is said to be a good alpine ice climb? I've down-climbed it in mid-July one year, but suspect it is in much different shape now. I would hope that it's not being strafed with rocks this late in the year as it was when we came down it. Just trying to get an idea if it's worth the risks that come with any climb of good old J'Berg. Thanks, John Sharp

Sounds pretty much like every other late season on that glacier. Good to know it's still there.

I can't go as my wife needs me around that weekend. Honest. Those who know me know I wouldn't miss a good party. Do you want my margarita recipe or will this be a beer thing? But I know you boys/girls will have fun. Just watchin' certain of you flirt would be worth the price of admission. Ciao, John

As a Bellevue native, I'd be delighted to come. But I can't do it this Friday, and there are no cool bars in Bellevue. John Sharp

GWhiz.

Prozac isn't that good, really. Rather than "it's all good," it's more like "I guess this situation isn't THAT bad; not as bad as I would have thought before going on the Big P, anyway." How's that for a scientific analysis.

S.W.Rib of S. Early Winter Spire. First pitch is 5.8, everything else is easier. Every pitch has 5.2 or above except one. Look at the red Beckey (not the old red one, but the one that came out about five years ago; smooth cover). Great topo. Nelson/Potterfield wrote it up too, but without topo. You won't get lost with Beckey's topo. I promise you'll like it, and not encounter as many people as you would on the Beckey route of L. Bell. John Sharp

I agree with MattP on all counts, and like him frequently travel on glaciers with just one partner. It's a calculated risk. I carry minimal equipment to climb a rope, and have a second set in case my partner needs it (they get it at the car). This assumes a clean fall, consciousness, no severe injury, etc. As for unexpected falls into crevasses on Cascade peaks by experienced climbers, a partner fell very quickly into his arm pits on the N. Face of Shuksan this year and there was no indication at all of any danger prior to the fall. He is very experienced and was as surprised as Colin and I were. It was scary seeing this happen on a big, fairly steep snow face. After that, we roped up. We got lucky. Live and learn. John Sharp

A real nut case with a suit case.

Is it really gone??? As in melted off? There sure was a lot of snow on it seven weeks ago . . .

If glacial breakup is a concern and you really want to do Goode, consider the N.W. Butt as an alternative. We did it instead of the N.E. based on very reliable reports that the river could not be crossed so access to the N.E. Butt was blocked. That was late July in an average snow year, and it was a warm weekend, so the rivers were all cookin'. If you do the N.W. Butt, You can camp at 5-mile campground and do the route as a day climb camp-to-camp. We came down the Bedayn Couloir back to camp. Semi-terrifying descent. The route is III 5.5, and the rock was fine. I did it in heavy leather boots, and my partner, a better climber, led in rock shoes. We approached from Stehekin, took the shuttle, etc. Aluminum crampons and a light axe would be a good idea. 50m 9mm rope too. Small rack of pro to 2" if I recall. And helmets. For sure helmets. Fred describes the route reasonably well. Good luck. It's a cool mountain. John Sharp [This message has been edited by Mr. Blister (edited 08-28-2001).]

Keep it up guys. This is great. Everyone gettin' out and doin' routes. Way to go. Question: If I take up boating, should I change my name to "water blister"?

Tim: I hate you. You'll never get a job at Expedia!!! Think about that next time you flash a long alpine rock route while I'm at home with the kids!!! XOXOXO, Blisterin' Goodtime [This message has been edited by Mr. Blister (edited 08-28-2001).]

Having done nothing other than babysit and attend a memorial service this past beautiful weekend, I'd love to hear who climbed what. Spray away, boys and girls. What routes are hot, and which ones are not. Cheers all, John Sharp Desk Monkey

You should consider the N. Face of Shuksan as a back up. When we did it a month ago, it was a snow climb for the most part, but the top was becoming alpine ice (i.e., the surface snow was melting off). It could be exactly what you're looking for now. N. Ridge of Forbidden could give you alpine ice now too, particularly low on the snow face. Take some screws for that one. You go, and report back. John

Lambone: Actually, my wife and mother-in-law called for the rescue. They forced the rangers' hands by calling two WA State politicians (Jim McDermott and Norm Dicks, who are family friends), and begging them to call the rangers. The rangers wanted to wait until the next day based on our register at Marblemount, on which we gave ourselves two full days to return just in case. The wives (mine and Bob's) thought we'd be home sooner based on our optimistic one-day plan, and panicked. In any event, the rangers had no choice when Stormin' Normin' called from D.C. and ordered them to fly. The subsequent explaining was the result of our telling the wives one thing, and the rangers, via the register, something else. And of course, we left the cell phones at home because they are jsut too darn heavy. The full report used to be on Mike Adamson's web site. I don't have it on my hard drive here. I wrote the thin route description for Jim/Peter's new book. Sorry Kyle. And yes, there are at least five rap stations on the E. Ridge descent. We found four and made one. John

Well, since I was with Bob, I guess I should chime in here. We are the party of three (with Jim Nelson) who were "rescued" by a helicopter in the Cascade Pass parking lot as we were a full day late. We thought it would be a day climb, but it took two days. Oh well. When the rangers landed the whirlybird in the lot, we were just about to leave to drive down to Marblemount after changing our clothes. Really embarrassing. We had some explaining to do. I would consider doing it again. Bob has said he would rather be "dipped in shit," or something to that effect. Jim has no use for it. I would like to go again for no other reason (and this is a pretty thin reason) than to sign the damn summit register. We stopped below the final short summit pyramid, rested, then said fuck the top and started down, thinking (wrongly) that we might reach the col by dark. Whatever. I agree with Bob that the East Ridge is shitty going down, and would be even shittier going up and then down. If you do the couloir, consider hanging a left at the top and going around the back of Mix Up et al. and over to Gunsight Notch, then back to Cascade Pass. That's about it. Way to go Kyle et al. I know of at least one other party to do it this year (Tim Matsui and partner). Welcome to the "club." John Sharp

Jah mon. Da wife owes me a trip, mon. I'll try to cash in.

I heard the moat is full of alligators. Take raw hamburger. John