Andrew_Grove

Latch, Well said. Pope, I respectfully disagree that climbing is just recreation and nothing special. For you that might be the case. For some of us, however, it is a way of life and part of who we are and where we live. It is as important to us as air, water, and food. Each of us makes our decisions and balances as best we can sometimes conflicting choices and committments. I am a parent. My daughter, now 17, has climbed with me for about 11 years, including multi-pitch trad routes in Canada and elsewhere. In those experiences, she gains a perspective on the world that few other children have opportunity for, she experiences personal growth in ways that more 'traditional' lifestyles and activities don't provide, and she gets to see her Dad where he is most himself and at home. If all she saw was me trying to fit into the American-dream mold, she would never know her real Dad. Instead, we know each other and bond as Father and Daughter to a degree that wouldn't happen otherwise. best, Andrew "But to snuff it without knowing who you are and what you are capable of, I can't think of anything sadder than that." Mo Anthoine in Feeding the Rat, by Al Alvarez, 1988.

QUOTE]Originally posted by Dru: I came about 6 inches and 1 small shrub away from falling off the top of the Apron at Squamish. It was quite scary. I like trees a lot more now. What route? Did you leave the shrub for the rest of us?[

Baked at the Smith Rock reflector oven. 89 on Sunday. The place is deserted in weather like that (no lines!) and the shade is okay. Actually had a good time.

Call your Senator today. It takes only a minute. Seriously. It's an inexpensive investment. All you need to say is you want to register your opposition to the Recreational Fee Demonstration Program. They keep track of these phone calls. Speak up and be counted! Senator Patty Murray at (202) 224-2621. Can others provide numbers for Oregon, Idaho, California, etc. senators?

The Worst Journey in the World, by Apsley Cherry-Garrard. Scott's last trip to Antarctica. At minus 70, sleeping bags freeze solid before you can roll them up or stuff them away. Nothing to do but strap them to the sled and trudge on. Beat them into submission each evening.

"Retreat upwards" -- from my mentor, who took it from someone else. "Put your feet where your hands are" -- from my mentor, original to him I think. "It's your karma" -- from my mentor; he's got a well-developed climber's sense of humor. "Don't get tunnel vision" -- overheard somewhere. "Climb the route as you find it, not as you would like it." Said to self in desperate moments. "Believe in yourself" Also said to self in desperate moments.

Some additions to Idea Guy's post. Which are all excellent suggestions. "Gumby Direct" has been called Walk in the Sky and Morning Sky; everyone agrees it's 10c. The .9 on Snuffy Smith Buttress is Snuffy Smith. The .10a to the left is No Golf Shoes and a bit chossy at the top. The second pitch is very chossy and rains on the belayer. The girth-hitch thread for Light on the Path has been supplemented with a bolt. And speaking of Smith Rock -- does anyone know the name of the guy who put up Snuffy Smith and No Golf Shoes. Erik somebody?

Bolts on Cocaine Crack? I've never heard of anything so ludicrous. Matt, thanks for removing them; sorry you had to spend climbing time doing that public service. btw -- what's with bolts in Icicle and Tumwater this year? They're sprouting like 'shrooms in a cow pasture after the rain.

The Thirty-Mile fire is nowhere close to Liberty Bell. You might keep an eye on the news anyway because the forests are real dry and there's been lightning in that area recently. So, new fires could pop up anytime. If you call a govt office, call the National Park Service on the west side of the mtns -- everybody on the east side is busy with fire business. ciao

There was an article in one of the rags, Climbing, or Rock and Ice, within the last two years about replacing bolts properly. Involved a crow-bar and drilling out the hole to the next larger size. Or, if already 3/8", fill with epoxy and rock dust, then drill a new one nearby. Might want to check around for the back issue. Some local libraries (King County) have them.

Hey Matt, Try calling Climb-on Equipment at (604) 892-2243. If anyone knows, it'll be them.

Kramar's original guide to Leavenworth (the one with the white cover) lists the rating for this at 5.10c. The more recent guide lists it at 5.10a. What gives? Typo? Shoes re-soled with fly-paper the second time around? Anyone know? Thanks,

I only read the older book after doing the route thinking it was 10a. Both the route and the rating difference surprised me. I thought it was a touch stiffer than Fakin' It at Peshastin (mostly because it had a lot of thin edges). I'd be inclined to call it 10b. But then, I haven't done enough friction 10b-c to say for sure. Judging from the growth of lichen, it's not getting much traffic, maybe because of the 5.8 offwidth approach. Too bad; it deserves all 3 stars.

I took my daughter up Diedre when she was fourteen. She loved it. Completely turned her attitude about climbing around. If the two of you haven't done Diedre (I couldn't tell from the post), do it -- nothing else comes close. If you have, train a little bit and do Snake, it's not really much more difficult.

I was in Icicle on the 20th, it was pretty dry. And warm enough for the bees/wasps to be active and keep me off one route! The road was open past 8-mile rock. It's just gonna depend on the most recent weather.

Dave Page is a great guy and stands by his work but he thinks everything is a boot. Ergo, your delicate slippers come back stiff enough to edge on a dime and jamb any crack. For rock shoes, John Ramuta is the man. Andrew

Frenchman Coulee near Vantage was excellent last Monday. Dry, warm, and deserted. Peshastin opens this weekend, also. ------------------ Andrew "But to snuff it without knowing who you are and what you are capable of, I can't think of anything sadder than that." Mo Anthoine in Feeding the Rat, by Al Alvarez, 1988.

Are you looking for Red Rocks partners, partners to help you get ready, or both? I lead low-10s trad and mid-10s sport. Long, multi-pitch is, well, there's nothing better. I have the usual challenges finding partners with schedules which match mine. Red Rocks is definitely on my to-do list. If you like, I can supply resume and references. ------------------ Andrew "But to snuff it without knowing who you are and what you are capable of, I can't think of anything sadder than that." Mo Anthoine in Feeding the Rat, by Al Alvarez, 1988.