[TR] Spider, S, and Magic Mountains - Standards 7/30/2012

[JasonG]

Trip: Spider, S, and Magic Mountains - Standards

 

Date: 7/30/2012

 

Trip Report:

Juan, Sepultura and myself had grand plans involving the 1972 Kloke route on the NF of Spider. As we all know though, talk is cheap. In the end a variety of factors (drizzly marine layer, time, lack of cojones, etc.) conspired against us, meaning that we ultimately took the gear for a long walk towards the north face but ended up coming back around to the standard SE route (Sorry Dallas, we will be back!). Such is life, but an appropriate outcome given my alpine season this year.

 

It is hard to be bummed out though, when your are in midst of such amazing country! Even the standard routes up Spider, S, and Magic are entertaining and undeniably beautiful- not to mention that the pesky marine layer that plagued us on Spider allowed for some interesting lighting and views. Highlights included: The Spider register (placed in 1968 by Cal Magnusson, who also placed the Agnes register in the same year), the improbably easy scramble up Magic (second time is as good as the first), moody views from atop S, and the parade of characters traipsing along the Ptarmigan traverse.

 

Here is a pictoral summary of three days on the south side of Cache col....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

For the standards all you need is a glacier rope, axe, helmet, and Aluminum crampons

 

Approach Notes:

Follow the Ptarmigans on their Ptrips.

Edited August 10, 2012 by JasonG

[G-spotter]

 

Get out the frying pan, let's fry up that meat pancake...

[Tyson.g]

Amazing photos as always thanks again...until the last one when I puked a bit.

Always a pleasure to read/see your TR's.

 

[JasonG]

Thanks Tyson. Sorry, but I couldn't resist posting a photo of Juan's feet. It was by far the worst blister I have ever seen. And that was with Leukotape!

 

You're right Drew, if we had run low on supplies, that flap would have sustained us for at least a few days!

[dougd]

Wonderful pictures of really beautiful country.

 

The huge flapper in the last pic turned my stomach also. I think I'd be tossing those boots or whatever caused such carnage...

 

I really enjoyed the entire TR.

 

Thanks

 

d

[Bronco]

Poor Juan, at least he looks extreme in gorts. Nice TR!

[denalidave]

Great pics! Thanks.

[bobinc]

Juan -are you still doing battle with the footwear?

[Juan Sharp]

 

The annual alpine ritual is becoming this:

 

(1) Find partners, all of whom are younger in years, for a single 3-4 day trip;

(2) Spend more time buying new gear than training;

(3) Blast out of the desk chair and into the Cascades;

(4) Spend entire time looking at partners' backs and trying to keep up;

(5) Eagerly anticipate damage to heels and loss of big toenails; and

(6) Gross people out by wearing flip-flops in the office post-trip.

 

But it is still worth every minute!

 

Juan

[bobinc]

I noticed the Spectra pack- one of the highest cost per pound climbing items out there.

[JasonG]

Oh that wasn't Juan's pack, it is Sepultura's. He's stuck on a boat in the Bering Sea much of the year, and spends far too much time looking at gear on the web! Sweet pack though....

[sepultura]

You got that right Jason, far to much time on the boat....

Now that I am back at work, I am dreaming of those trips. Thanks for making it happen!

[sefton]

Nice TR - what camera are you using? - takes great pics!

[rob]

 

this made my asshole clench

[JasonG]

Canon T1i with the kit lenses, nothing fancy or expensive.

[wayne]

The best photo set I have seen in a long time, thanks.

[Skarm]

Canon T1i with the kit lenses, nothing fancy or expensive.

 

You sure that is the kit lens? The photo's are fantastic, well done.

[mountainsloth]

 

this made my asshole clench

 

I have to stop reading these while eating breakfast. F'ing aweful man!