Boots, Boots and Boots

[Tyson.g]

Looking to get a pair of them new fangled fancy mountaineering boots for three season use.

I am sure there is a thread somewhere discussing the merits of said boots and wha favors what but alas I am lazy and do not want to go looking around so I pose the question:

 

What are your preffered boots for three season alpine climbing that are compatible with semi auto crampons?

 

Ice climbing will be minimal so I am looking for an all around performer.

 

TIA,

 

Tyson

[Water]

lowa mountain expert - just fits my food incredibly. warm enough for the shoulder seasons and most of winter at most elevations for me. nimble enough i've hiked in it on non-mountaineering endeavors like going around crater lake/beartooths. but stout construction. heel welt (toe welt too but i don't full trust it)..

 

I am sure there is lighter out there though.

[yellowlab03]

I like my Scarpa Triolets. All leather, pretty warm but not so hot that my feet get soaked when moving, heel welt, comfortable to hike in for the approach.

[JDCH]

Millet Alpinist- Had em for four years and love em. I have worn them on hot summer east coast hikes, and up to the top of Elbrus, and lots of very cold ice climbing days. Never had cold feet or got too sweaty.

[wfinley]

I got a pair of Salewa Rapace this past spring. Used them in Chamonix for a month and loved them. They fit a pair of Grivel crampons that have a heel piece and a plastic toe piece just fine. They climbed moderate rock just fine and are perfect for kicking steps or hiking across glacier ice. Best of all they're super light so I didn't complain too much when I had to carry them in a pack. I also have had a pair of La Sportiva Nepals for about 5 years now (just got them resoled at Dave's Cobbler). Love them but they sure are heavy.

[Tyson.g]

Thanks folks.

[RafalA]

Scarpa Rebel GTX - walk like a stiff trail runner, climb like a clunky rock shoe. Comfortable and light.

[btustison]

I tried on quite a few a year and a half ago and I went with the Scarpa Triolet. My criteria were similar to yours, and I am happy with the comfort/performance factor. All comes down to the shape of your foot though. Tried on some boots at REI that had outstanding reviews, but fit my foot really awkwardly. Found the Triolets at Feathered Friends.

 

$.02

Good luck.

[genepires]

garmont towers are nice.

[Buckaroo]

Sportiva Trango S

 

Scarpa Charmoz

 

both very light, 3/4 shank, GoreTex, heel bail

 

both super sticky rubber. They'll climb 5.10 edging. Little bit light for a lot of hard ice.

 

I always thought the Trango S was the lightest in this class, until the Charmoz came along

[Luzak00]

Scarpa Rebel GTX - walk like a stiff trail runner, climb like a clunky rock shoe. Comfortable and light.

 

This is my new favorite. Old pair was the Trango S. Both are good, as is the Scarpa Charmoz.

 

I prefer more of a fabric boot than a leather boot in this category. They're lighter, breathe better, and feel more comfortable. Leather boots are going to be more durably waterproof and last longer, though.

Edited August 10, 2012 by Luzak00

[montypiton]

I'm wearing Trango Primes. Check out the "go-to alpine/glacier boot" thread - good stuff there, too...

 

then try on every boot mentioned in both threads and buy the one that feels like you were born in it - then spend the extra on having a custom insole fitted. the up-front investment may feel a bit much, but I can pretty much guarantee you won't regret it...